Trip Reports

Mera Peak - 19 April to 12 May

Written by Leader Terry Moore, June 2008

A successful expedition with 7 out of 11 members summiting on Mera Peak (6476m) on 4th May in perfect calm and clear weather. The trek followed the itinerary with the acclimatization profile proving more than satisfactorily for the members and support staff. No accidents or major incidents occurred.

ROUTE

The itinerary was followed with the exception of the planned day off at Dig Kharka (4650m), where a preferred short ascent to Khare (5045m) provided a nearer approach for glacier training, and an easier day for the porters to carry loads to the Mera La camp (5300m) the following day.

TREK

Despite unsettled weather during the trek in and out we were lucky to be at each campsite before any heavy falls of rain or snow. Everyone was happy with the route enjoying the lunch stops and campsites provided. We experienced heavy rain and flooding at the campsite at Chalem Kharka (3600m), despite being high on a ridge. The staff were quick to dig drainage channels but concern was raised about keeping personal effects clean and dry. The mess tent was swamped just before completed the evening meal.

At Tangnag (4360m) Doug suffered from vomiting and diarrhoea in the late evening and after some medication he settled down for a few hours sleep in the nearby lodge. The group throughout remained relatively healthy with minor symptoms of sore throats, headaches and loose bowel movements. All responded well to hygiene standards though concern about local toilet facilities and litter at some campsites needed addressing. The return trek over the Zatrwa La (4600m) was the hardest days trek for the group with some tired bunnies arriving at the campsite just below Chhutanga (3050m) following a long descent. Some patches of snow here made walking difficult, but the passage was made safe by our Sherpas. We were lucky enough not to have used the spare bad weather day and so arrived at Lukla with the option to return to Kathmandu a day earlier than programmed. Everyone returned to Kathmandu a day early after celebrations in the Yeti Lodge with all the support staff.

THE CLIMB

The rest day at Mera La base camp (5300m) before the climb provided some additional crampon techniques and rope work on the glacier edge. This proved invaluable, and consolidated the new skills learned while at Khare two days earlier. Everyone acclimatized reasonably well, though most showed symptoms of minor altitude sickness on arrival at High Camp (5800m). Doug was unable to find the strength to move to High Camp and Toni was suffering from a bout of altitude lassitude and both agreed to descend to Khare with the support staff until the main group returned from the summit. Bill decided to stay at High Camp having accepted his limit following two days of difficulty with acclimatizing, and keeping up with the group.

The Sherpas and support staff worked tirelessly to ensure everyone was comfortable and prepared for the summit day. Even Tenzing Sherpa (cook) produced another gourmet lunch at High Camp. A breathtaking view here shared only with a Japanese group boosted our moral as the settling weather gave hope for a summit attempt.

An alpine start at 3am on 4th May saw the remaining group set off for the summit. Unfortunately Paul had difficulty with the altitude, exacerbated by his throat infection and poor sleeping pattern and retired shortly after setting off. Everyone continued to the summit in perfect weather, arriving at 6.45am. A windless ascent with excellent views across the Everest range forced smiles on even the most tired of members. The short fixed rope section near the summit was easily conquered and celebration photographs and the wiping of tears gave memorable moments to all. I was particularly pleased to see Dee and Richard summit after their slow ascent and performance over the previous days. Providing Richard was stoked with Mars Bars and Dee had a Sherpa permanently attached to her success was assured for both.

REFLECTIONS AND CONCLUSION

A varied group that bonded well and proved that after good Sherpa support, some training and an injection of camaraderie they could push their personal envelope a little and reach a Himalayan summit. Thanks go to Jon who gave amusement and moral support throughout, with his northern humour and friendship with the support staff. Our Sirdar -Pema Sherpa was unstinting in his duties, with an optimistic outlook and permanent smile. I was pleased to witness that those unable to reach the summit were still in fine spirits and enjoyed the experiences about travelling in a hostile environment.

Terry Moore, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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