Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 13 Jan to 3 Feb '12

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, February 2012

It was cold, windy and dark as the team set off from Camp 3 at the small Berlin Huts (5,933m). The sound of the squeaking snow was methodical with the pace of our steps. Crampons made progress easier as the spikes sank into well-trodden icy snow. Focussed on their objective, the team was silent for the first time, no banter, no laughter, just enough energy for personal thoughts. The wind was of concern as it buffeted us around but wrapped in our down clothes and hands deeply inside mittens we continued.

After an hour we sought refuge behind some rocks to drink and nibble at treats stowed in our pockets. Setting off again we started to see the sun rise and the shadow of the mountain clearly became visible in the west. Hoping the wind would drop as the sun gained strength, we continued at a good pace, interrupted only by gusts of wind that made us pause as the spindrift hammered on our faces. Gaining height and as the sun warmed our bodies smiles were visible as it was obvious the team was strong and well acclimatised. The wind, however, started to gust with more strength and progress was made more difficult. Soon we were pinned by the Viento Blanco.

On our knees we waited for it to ease before we could regain our steps. As soon as we stood back up another gust battered us down. Blocks of windslab snow flew through the air and the loose snow whirled around demented. Only one decision was the right one now close to Independencia at 6,377m. With the exposed traverse in front of us, we had no option but to turn around. Saddened by our defeat, but knowing we had no other choice we descended and the wind continued to force our bodies to stumble. We returned to our tents, relieved but emotional that today Aconcagua was not going to be climbed. We waited out the day and the night in our tents that were distorted by the wind. Would the wind ease to give us a second chance? At 3am the following morning the sound of the wind train roared above us. We stayed tucked in our sleeping bags as other teams left; we knew that Viento Blanco was still in force!

It was not long before the teams returned back to seek refuge and we turned over to rest with the knowledge we had given Aconcagua our very best and that if the weather had allowed, this strong and fit team would have had summit success. From the group of expectant individuals that had turned up, clean shaven and well-dressed at Heathrow Airport nearly three weeks ago, we were now a team of climbers - our faces showing that we had worked hard to experience what Aconcagua had to offer. Altitude records had been broken for most team members as we moved higher and higher on the mountain and every day had been an adventure. Bonete Peak (5,004m) proved to be a great climb for everyone, the journeys between the camps were special days in their own right, the views that unfolded never ceased to amaze us and the spirit of the team never dwindled throughout the expedition.

Our Argentinian guides had looked after us well in the camps, providing water and food and entertainment in all sorts of ways. The comfort of base camp and the food was a relief as we acclimatised to enable our bodies to have a chance of reaching that magical height (6,959m). Storms came and went and the evidence was apparent as we repaired our battered tents at Camp one on our final summit push. 6959 is a number that is now deeply engrained in the minds of most of the team and as we looked back after our long hike back to civilisation, we could still see Viento Blanco swirling over the summit. This expedition can only be described as a magical high mountain experience that has enriched all the team members in some way. The journey back to Mendoza reflected the mood as we celebrated our expedition with a few beers and songs on the bus!

A day later, after enjoying the comfort of hotel life and a celebratory meal, rumours were spreading that for some a plan was being hatched for a rematch with Aconcagua in 2013.

Adele Pennington, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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