Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 11 Jan to 4 Feb '07

Written by Leader Paul Donovan, February 2007

A philosophical team unite in their disappointment not to summit! After two days of travelling from the UK to Mendoza, a day of rest and a further days travelling to Los Penitentes, the team were eager to get going. With the weather on our side (hot and sunny with a light wind) we departed the Aconcagua Park gates and headed north into the Horcones Valley for Confluencia Camp. A day acclimatisation trek up the Horcones Inferior Valley to the Mirador del Pared Sud gave us a 650m ascent and our first snow shower. The snow developed into a heavy storm as we made our way to Plaza de Mulas at 4,365m - Base Camp. An excellent day in harsh conditions.

Following a rest day, it was off to Bonete Peak (5,004m) in perfect weather conditions, which gave us excellent views into Chile, as well as great views of our route up Aconcagua. The next stage of the expedition was now upon us. It was time to load the mountain with food and equipment, in preparation for our final ascent. This involved a 3 hour trek to Camp 1 (Camp Canada) with rucksacks weighing in at around 12kg. After an overnight in Camp 1, with winds in excess of 40mph, it was back to Base Camp to prepare for the final stage. The weather had changed for the worst over the last 24 hours with strong winds and lenticular cloud over the mountain. It was time to pray to the mountain gods for a good spell.

The final stage of the expedition was looming. With final checks on equipment, health and the weather completed, it was time to get underway. We were hopefully ready for what was ahead of us.

Initially we duplicated our climb up to Camp 1, in around 3 hours (and in plastic boots). All were going very well. As we had not loaded Camp 2 previously, due to extreme weather conditions, there was a need to carry additional supplies today. This slowed us down a little, although the snow storm did not help us. Two nights at Camp 2 saw further snow storms amongst the occasional rays of sunshine. The team were getting stronger.

Despite the weather, the team remained very optimistic for the next couple of days and our summit bid. Fully acclimatised, we continued to Camp 3 (Berlin Camp), where we established ourselves and waited for a weather window. A late afternoon snow storm and temperatures of -25°C halted our following days summit bid. The weather appeared to be changing in our favour. With our hopes high, we had another night at around 6,000m, preparing to leave at 06:00 the following morning. The time came and we left in what appeared to be reasonable conditions.

Within 30 minutes, the weather began to change. As we ascended, so the lenticular cloud began to build and the wind increased to 60+mph. The team were going strong, despite or perhaps, in spite of the weather that had been following us up the mountain. At around 07:30, on Monday 29th January 2007, following a discussion with the team at around 6,200m, it was decided to return to camp, without a summit. The mountain gods had not fully answered our prayers.

Disappointment was perhaps an understatement, but a reality!

However, taking the positives out of the summit attempt, most team members reached a new height record and all achieved personal goals along the way. Knowing any further chances of a summit attempt were out of the question, we packed up camp and headed back to Base Camp in a very philosophical frame of mind. The descent back to Base Camp and onwards to the park gates continued to give us bad weather. It would almost appear that we have been followed by this bad weather throughout the expedition - El Nino has a lot to answer for!

Whilst a summit was not attained on this occasion, success was. New height records for some and personal achievements for all must not be forgotten for this very strong, experienced and committed team, who worked incredibly well together, in an attempt to climb Aconcagua (6,962m).

Many thanks to all, including the team members, our local guides - Lucus, Nils and Martin and our support staff on the mountain.

Llongyfarchiadau Pawb!
Congratulations to all!

Paul Donovan - Expedition Leader.

P.S. Remember, it’s only a friendly game of cards! « Previous report | Next report »

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