Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 10 Dec to 3 Jan '07

Written by Leader Tom Parkin, January 2007

The flight to Buenos Aires went smoothly and we even had time for a swift café stopover downtown, before our onward flight to Mendoza. Checking into our hotel we then went off in search of a restaurant, enjoying the first of many filling Argentinian steaks. The team was gelling well and had already proved its ability to pull together, a trait it continued to develop.

The following day we checked kit, made preparations and met our head guide, ready for the onward journey to Aconcagua National Park. An overnight, in an out-of season ski resort hotel, and we were off walking up to the first camp at Confluencia. Though early season and still cold the sun itself was pleasingly warm, with visible heat haze shimmering over the slopes.

Our first acclimatisation day involved a pleasant walk up towards Plaza Francia, and a stunning view of the South Face of Aconcagua, an airborne avalanche thrown in for good measure. We slept back at Confluencia, before setting off to Plaza de Mules and avoided the long, hot hike up to Base Camp because we were sand blasted by a cool valley wind nearly all the way there.

We had a rest day at Mulas, taking it easy at altitude, checking out the Refugio and the other benefits of Base Camp. Despite running the gauntlet of the ever-present Medical Service, most of the team were declared fit and all were in a position to make the acclimatisation trek to the summit of Bonete. We were all rewarded by fine views of Aconcagua’s West Face as well as several other fine summits and ridges way over into Argentina. Another welcome day of recuperation and preparation and we were ready for our first foray on to the mountain proper. Part acclimatisation and part forward supply, we hiked up, to overnight at Camp Canada, and then the following day we ascended to Nido de Condores, where we cached some food. Returning to Base Camp the same day we had the afternoon, and the following day, to take the opportunity of a second free shower. A final chance to go through equipment, supplies, medical checks, etc and we were all set.

There was a little apprehension amongst the team as we set off that first morning, but it was masked by a strong sense of camaraderie and light-hearted banter. We made good progress up past Conway Rocks and on to Camp Canada. As we climbed steadily up the mountainside the vistas once again opened up before us and we were treated to both an excellent meal and a magnificent sunset.

That first night was to give us all a taste of just how windy the mountain could be, as the tents were pummelled continuously. The weather had failed to deteriorate as forecast, but then it didn’t seem to have established a stable pattern either. We were all conscious of the fact that few people had summited in the last fortnight, due to both the cold and the wind. Previously we had often looked up, on our rest days, to see the summit shrouded or with a large lenticular cloud streaming downwind.

After the first night of buffetting most of us adapted, but it did make for troubled sleep and a testing time. One of the party however, decided to turn back, shortly after leaving camp 1, having struggled to come to terms with the rigours of camping in the wind.

We climbed on to Nido de Condores, a large, open expanse that did nothing to shelter us. We gathered our tents in a huddle, and at least we now had the additional benefit of a large, domed Mess Tent. Our last planned rest day was, therefore, spent very festivally, as the programme had us acclimatising at camp 2 on Christmas day.

Yet another windy day, despite the sun trying hard to lend us some warmth. Though not long up to Berlin Camp the altitude gain was significant enough to cause some headaches amongst us. It was very difficult to remember to always take as much time as was needed to complete any task. It was very cold and windy that night and it was with no surprise that we realised that our summit attempt, of the following morning, would have to be postponed.

An enforced rest day did in fact assist acclimatisation but lowered morale slightly, especially so when one of the team elected to return to Base Camp. Having endured a significant headache, for over two days, but still keen to push on, the sensible decision was made to leave the summit for another day. It was with regret that the team lost this second summiteer. The weather improved in the afternoon, however, and the wind was almost benign. It was with renewed hope that the rest of the team turned in, ready for an early start the following day.

Summit day dawned quieter than usual, though everyone was still sluggish, because of the cold and cumulative lack of sleep. We set off together at a steady pace and generally managed to stay loosely within two groups, though not too far apart. Unfortunately our oldest teammate, a stalwart of the group, was feeling the altitude more than most and gradually lost ground to the rest. He did, however, reach the abandoned Independencia shelter, a magnificent effort, before sensibly deciding to return to camp.

After a short rest the remainder of the team began the long, rising traverse to the base of the Canaletta. The weather was steadily improving, any wind slowly dying away. We had a brief rest at the base of the final steep scree slope, before the final weary trudge to the summit. We were fortunate not to need crampons, even though there was still some snow in places. It was in the Canaletta, however, that we lost our fourth team member, due to the realisation that it required just as much effort to descend from the summit. It took a degree of discipline to turn back when so close, as can be attested to by another team member whose legs were significantly the worse for wear on the return journey.

Eight of the team, therefore, reached an almost becalmed summit by mid afternoon, basking in glorious sunshine and superb views. We spent a little time soaking in the situation before our, seemingly even longer, journey home. It was a great pleasure to work with such a fine team and a credit to its very supportive ethos that so many made it to the highest peak in the South Western hemisphere.

One final cautionary tale, on our way down the Canaletta we came across an Austrian, who looked like he had just sat down for a rest. After a casual conversation about his situation we attempted to get him to come down with us off the mountain. As soon as he tried to stand he had no control over his legs and collapsed with exhaustion. Had we not insisted he descend the chances are he might have spent a very cold night out at almost 7000m!

Tom Parkin, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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