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Independence Day

A snowy Cosmiques Ridge
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Written by Tom Hutton, April 2012

Tom joined our Alpine Techniques course in 2011

All at once it came together
I edged my way along the narrow crest keeping my eyes firmly planted on the figure at the other end of the rope and doing my absolute best to ignore the monumental drop on both sides. Part of me wanted to stop and bathe in the exposure � the likes of which I�d never experienced before. But this was no place to start losing it and if I�m honest, this was always a possibility.

We continued; placing each foot with the kind of precision I�d normally associate with rock climbing and the whole time mulling over the old adage about falling into France and jumping into Italy � it seemed an unlikely way to get out of trouble but I was pretty confident we wouldn�t need to find out. And then suddenly it was over; I could put my feet more or less where I wanted to again and I no longer felt a need to hold my breath. Al turned around and we grinned at each other. We�d done it: our first real Alpine classic.

Sooner or later, the Alps will capture the imagination of most climbers. We can push our grades on the crags and mountains of the UK. And we can transpose some of these skills to include Scottisgh winter and all its wonderful, freezing facets. But no matter how much we ignore the big, scary peaks on the other side of the channel, they will keep calling us.

Eventually I succumbed. At first ski touring, something I�ve always enjoyed, became peak bagging � no big deal. Then I wanted to get out in summer and was happy ticking off the summits without the skis. Before long it wasn�t even the tops that drew me, I just wanted to climb the routes. I was loving it: the more I did the more I wanted to do. But all this was done under the watchful eye of a guide � great as it freed my mind to really enjoy the experience, but also somehow restricting � I�m not a great follower.

Eventually I realised that to truly develop as a climber I needed to drop the guide.

That�s where Pelle came in
Pelle was the head guide on the Jagged Globe Alpine Techniques course. And when he asked me what my goals were for the 6 day course, I told him in no uncertain terms: I wanted to get rid of him. I wanted autonomy; this was Independence Day.

The course turned out to be near perfect: I was climbing HS/VS and Scottish III in winter; I knew a clovehitch from an Italian hitch and I had a decent amount of mountain nous picked up from years of hillwalking (and a bit of ski touring). I just needed to sharpen these skills up a bit and bring them to the bigger, scarier part of the Alps, where speed and efficiency are tested to the limit. I�d also need a much better understanding of the bits we don�t get here, like glaciers and crevasses.

The week split neatly into rock and mixed
The rock days gave myself and my fellow course mates a chance to fine tune our rope work: belaying and tying off, lowering and abseiling, stance management � almost everything we did came under the spotlight and was improved upon. Speed was always the priority.

We climbed sport and trad routes in the Aiguille Rouges: I pushed my grade with the reassurance of solid bolts, something I�m not used to; and Dave placed his own runners for the first time � a daunting experience for most but he made it look easy.

We then left the rock shoes in the hotel for a day and traversed the Aiguilles du Crochues in big boots. This felt more like the true alpine experience: a jagged, pinnacled, knife-edge ridge with techie cruxes, easy scrambling sections and even the odd abseil. I felt in my element � my Snowdonia roots proved a good grounding.

We took in the summit � the views over the Chamonix Aiguilles and the Mont Blanc massif were absolutely mind blowing � and then dropped onto a snowy slope that led sweetly down to the uber-scenic, ever-popular, Lac Blanc. A cold beer was almost obligatory.

Wednesday was to be our first mixed day but the fickle Chamonix weather had other ideas so we dug out the rock shoes and chalk bags again and trooped south through the Mont Blanc tunnel, to the Corma di Machaby. Here we enjoyed some 9 pitches of pristine granite on Diretta al Banano (5c) � a truly memorable climb that was completed just minutes before the storm caught us up � well-judged Pelle.

Thursday dawned disappointing too but the Meteo assured us the weather was fine above the cloud so we went for it. Sure enough, the Aiguille du Midi cable car broke through the grey into a wonder world of blue and white just above the half way station. We gearedup nervously and roped-up to descend the narrow ar�te onto the glacier. I was now paired with a second guide: Tomaz Jakofcic � a modest, quiet-spoken Slovenian with an impressive Alpine and Greater Ranges CV.

Tomaz and I became a rope team � fantastic from a learning perspective but slightly daunting having such an experienced second as we started up the Cosmiques Arete. We moved together well � and I was grateful for any tips and advice my partner could give me as we continued. But it did feel rather over the top at times as I meticulously practiced every bit of the safety system on a climber that could have done the route blindfolded and on crutches.

He was wonderfully supportive on the crux, which I found a lot harder than I was expecting. It really is quite something pushing your front points into 2 little holes and then pushing up on them.

From the lift station, we took the traversing cable car over the plateau to Hellbronner on the Italian side. A short walk led to the Torino Hut � our base for the night. Tomaz gave us some interesting lessons on crevasse rescue on the sunny terrace and then later in the evening, we did a session on navigation.

We also took the time to step outside and gaze at and photograph the alpenglow on the impressive southern face of Mont Blanc.

The two guides also ran through basic hut etiquette, which was useful for the others who�d not used one before. Final word was about getting up and getting moving in the morning. Something we actually managed well.

Our final objective was a traverse of the Aiguille d�Entreves � a modest crest of granite that shares a col with the far more impressive Tour Ronde. Seen from the hut, it looked little more than an outcrop with the summit of Mont Blanc towering over 1km above it. But up close, it looked every bit as intimidating as the other ridges we�d traversed and I set off with more than just a little intrepidation.

I shouldn�t have worried. Despite the incredible positions � high above the Toula Glacier � and the impressive neighbours, which included the Dent du Geant as well as the Tour Ronde and Mont Blanc, the climbing was enthralling but never too difficult. A wicked wind whipped in from the north at about half distance, and this made life pretty tough on the sections that followed the windward side.

The crux wasn�t unlike the Cosmiques � a strenuous mantle made all the more strenuous by the altitude. But I managed this one a little better than the previous day�s attempt and felt quite pleased with myself as I swung between gendarmes on the enjoyable final stretch.

And then it was all over so early � another one of those things you learn about the Alps (well, on the shorter routes anyway). Yet the conditions seldom make another route possible. So it was with mixed emotions that I set off back to the hut � elation at the success of the climb, but disappointment that the trip, which had been truly brilliant, was over.

And that was exactly how Al and I felt just two months later as we set off back down to the Conscrits Hut from the awesome Domes de Miage. We had enjoyed a classic Alpine day on a classic Alpine route � our first real biggie. And yet it was barely mid-morning. We sat on a rock and enjoyed the sunshine � this time tomorrow we�d be on our way home.

We�d certainly had the full Alpine experience: summits and failure in the Aiguille Rouges � everyone needs to know when to back off. A magical bivi by Lac Blanc � one of those things you have to do before you die. We�d managed to dodge some serious stonefall beneath the Aiguille du Chamois � nothing can prepare you for the violence of giant cannonballs hurtling down the mountainside at that speed; and I�d gone in a crevasse up to my waist on the Tr� la T�te � that�s something I could definitely live without ever happening again.

We�d seen sunrises and sunsets, moons and brochen spectres, and eagles and ibex. And we�d even managed to stick to the odd guidebook time!

But what mattered most to me was that for the first time, we�d done it completely by ourselves. Thanks to Pelle, Tomaz and the Alpine Techniques course, I�d finally found the confidence to go it alone.

I�ve already started planning next year�s trip�

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