Everest 2015

Blog

Photos from the Khumbu Icefall07:58 GMT, 24/Apr/15

The team are resting in base camp today and tomorrow (Friday and Saturday 24/25 April) and plan to head up to camp 2 on Sunday 26 April, with the aim of sleeping there for four nights. As ever, this plan is flexible depending on what the weather brings. Here are a couple of photos taken earlier in the week by David Hamilton.

1st rotation to Camp 1 complete + Icefall route overview11:07 GMT, 23/Apr/15

The team are all now back in Base Camp after completing our first 'rotation' on the mountain and sleeping at Camp One (6,100m).

We left Base Camp at 02.30 on Wednesday 22 April and climbed through the Khumbu Icefall reaching Camp One between 08.30 and 09.00. This enabled us to travel at the coolest time of the day, completing half the journey in the dark and half in the early dawn light. There was little 'traffic' on the route: some Sherpas were taking loads up to Camps One and Two and very few people were descending.

On arrival at Camp One our Sherpa team were almost finished pitching the 7 tents we needed and we ducked out of the cool breeze to catch up on sleep. The day was spent dozing, reading books and melting snow to make water for drinks. The day was warm and sunny and we were able to keep the tent interiors cool by opening the doors at each end. In the afternoon the clouds rolled in over camp and conditions became a little colder.

We awoke at 05.00 on Thursday 23 April, packed the contents of our tents quickly, and left Camp One by 05.45. Once again we were lucky not to meet too many people on the trail and everyone reached Base Camp between 08.15 and 08.45 where a breakfast of cheese omelette, toast, beans and sausages was waiting.

This was our first experience of the 'new' 2015 route through the Khumbu Icefall. Following the accident last year a decision was made to move the route from the left side of the icefall to the right side (climbers' view standing in Base Camp). The previous route was threatened by serac fall from Everest's West Ridge. The 'new' route avoids this hazard, and hopefully is not exposed to anything similar from the Nuptse side.

Both routes climb from 5,350m in Base Camp to 6,100m at Camp One. The height gain is identical and the amount of effort needed to make the climb is similar. The old route covered more horizontal ground at a more gentle angle, while the new route is shorter and steeper. The old route had many sections of short metal ladders while the new route has fewer ladders in total, but there are two vertical sections of 20m, each of which is equipped with 2 sets of 4 ladders tied together.

Overall I think that the new route needs a bit more effort to climb, and needs a bit more technical expertise both in ascent (ladders) and descent (abseil / rappel).

The SPCC 'Ice fall doctors' have done a good job in finding a reasonably safe route through the Icefall, and fixing the necessary ropes and ladders. However, the route as it stands now has several potential 'bottlenecks' where large queues could develop. The expedition leaders have discussed this with the SPCC and we are hoping that they will fit double ropes and ladders on the narrow sections in the next few days before the number of climbers passing through the icefall increases to peak season numbers.

Meanwhile our plans are to rest in Base Camp for a few days before starting our second 'rotation' which will take us to Camp Two (6,400m) for four nights and include a hike the foot of the Lhotse Face (6,700m).

David Hamilton

Into the Khumbu Icefall07:18 GMT, 21/Apr/15

21 April

We have had had a couple of amazing days, in perfect conditions. Yesterday the team ascended to Pumori ABC gaining over 400m to get what must be one of the best views of Everest and into the western cwm. It was obviously the thing to do as we passed several teams doing the same thing as we descended � it was certainly worth getting up a little earlier that the others to get the place to ourselves. We were easily back down for lunch and an afternoon relaxing around camp in the warm sunshine.

The day was rounded off with bangers and mash � the plates didn't really need washing up afterwards.

Today the team assembled in the mess tent for hot drinks and porridge around 0315 for a 0400 departure up the mountain � new ground for most of the team. David had suggested the temperature would feel like a Island or Mera summit day but it felt quite a bit warmer to me � no down jackets required. It was only about 30 mins across the glacier to the start of the fixed lines. This year's route is pretty direct and we had the route to ourselves for the most part. As with yesterday the views back across the valley were stunning especially as dawn broke.

It was a couple of hours before we met with the first ladders, they didn't really cause anyone too much trouble, although things will get easier with more practice. After 3 hours, at around 5750m (about half way to C1) we paused briefly in the cold before turning around and heading down. As previously, setting off that little bit earlier meant we passed several teams heading up. But after a busy Sherpa day yesterday things were pretty quite and we were back down in the sunshine a very ready for a second breakfast followed by a little sleep.

The next step of the plan is head back up all the way to sleep at C1.

Chris Groves

Icefall training and better weather07:57 GMT, 20/Apr/15

19 April

At last the snow stopped and the sun has come out, so today has seen further icefall training, making adjustments to equipment and more practice refining technique. Everyone needs to be slick & efficient in order to move quickly, but use the least amount of energy. Dan and Flo decided it would be a good day to take some promotional shots of some the kit they had been sponsored by and persuaded George to model too. They said they were Ninja suits, maybe Flo in black was, but George stole the show in his tropical onesie.

In the warn afternoon sun there is a frenzy of washing and showering. As more teams arrive BC is getting busier and there have been the sounds of a number of Pujas happening. The icefall doctors are busy at work checking and modifying the route upwards and our Sherpas hope to make the first carry up to C1 in the morning. So another job of today was checking and sorting all the tents needed for the mountain camps.

Yesterday was the anniversary of last year's tragedy so nobody moved up the mountain. Teams did their own thing. After being in camp for a few days we braved the snow and headed down valley and back up Kala Pattar again � things are supposed to get easier but in the deep snow and hot temperatures things felt harder! But the better news was as the day progressed the skies cleared signalling better weather. We had a very windy night but everything in our camp survived and for the first time warm sunshine drove people out of their tents before our 0800 breakfast.

Friday was our first foray on the ice to ensure crampons fitted correctly and to have a refresher ascending and descending ropes and practice using the ladders that we'll need to get through the icefall.

Chris Groves

Puja and more snow08:13 GMT, 16/Apr/15

16 April Base Camp

Too Much Snow

An unseasonal amount of snow has fallen over the past few days and brought all activity on Everest to a halt. Our Base Camp set up is largely complete, but we cannot add the finishing touches until the new snow has been cleared. Similarly our Sherpa's plans to start moving supplies up the mountain cannot start until the weather stabilises and the new snow has time to consolidate.

The team were hoping to spend a few days training in the lower Icefall before climbing higher, but we cannot do this until the thick blanket of fresh snow has cleared. Even the 'regular' acclimatisation hikes to Kala Patar and Pumori ABC are impossible with 30-50cm of new snow lying on top of loose rocks and scree.

At least this delay is giving people the chance to get used to life at 5300m before we move higher, but the wait is frustrating as we are one of the first teams in Base Camp and are hoping to get moving on the mountain at the first opportunity.

15 April Base Camp: Puja

Preparations were already underway as the team surfaced for breakfast having been delayed due to the earlier snowfall. Yesterday the team headed out of BC back down to Gorak Shep and ascended Kala Pattar - not too straightforward given the deep snow in the morning and very wet slush in the afternoon. But there was good news as our Chef (& climber), Gavin, arrived in camp.

The snow held off for the ceremony, the only hitch being the Lama wasn't happy with the height of the central pole off which all prayer flags are hung. But the Sherpas quickly sorted this with another pole, gaffer tape and accessory cord. Crampons, axes and helmets were blessed as part of the proceedings then members and Sherpas had their faces covered in Tsampa (a Tibetan flour) before being presented with a string to be worn around the neck and another silk scarf from the Lama. There then followed rum, chocolate, beer and Chang. The team were quite restrained and didn't over indulge but the Sherpas carried on the party into the afternoon.

Despite a snowy afternoon hot showers were very well received. Unfortunately, the snow continued...

Chris Groves

Guest blog by Carole Cadwalladr: Jagged Globe - the Trekkers’ blog12:56 GMT, 14/Apr/15

Having heard so much about the delights of base camp, the trekkers finally got to see it for themselves on Sunday. We got the grand tour: the piddle tent (a high-tech affair consisting of a pile of rocks), the dining tent, and the recreational facilities (the bookcase). We were particularly impressed by the variety of reading material on offer, Fifty Shades of Grey will no doubt prove a popular choice during those long, dark acclimatisation nights. There was some controversy regarding its ownership, Nick suggesting that it belonged to Selina but Selina pointing out that she read it on her Kindle last year. George remained unusually quiet.

Lunch was good including the item described by David as �pork pastries� but which actually transpired to be spam fritters and then after a tour of the HRA clinic, it was time to say goodbye to the climbers. It felt a bit emotional�and we hope they keep safe and that Annie�s prayer flags do the trick of appeasing the mountain gods. We�re all looking forward to following their progress on the blog and a full array of triumphant summit pix.

It was a cold walk back and we were all glad to warm our hands around the oven of burning yak dung and then woke Monday morning to a foot of fresh snow and another goodbye: this time to Sierra and Mike who have a further six weeks to enjoy the luxurious bathroom facilities of Gorak Shep.

The walk down on fresh snow though a white-out was challenging in places but at least we didn�t have the climbers slowing us down. Poor Annie took a tumble but soldiered on on nothing stronger than a herbal cough drop. And while we�re sad not to be enjoying the -12 degree Centigrade temperatures in the base camp dining tent tonight, Andy, Annie, Salla and Carole all say hi from the almost-too-toasty Panorama Lodge in Pheriche.

Carole Cadwalladr

Team arrive in Everest Base Camp11:02 GMT, 13/Apr/15

13 April Base camp

Snow all night and today we woke to at least 30cm of snow. Not much good for doing anything. We were due to have our Puja ceremony today but that has been postponed. So very little happening as everything is buried, at least it is reasonably warm in the tents. Not a good washing or showering day!

All the trekkers walked up from Gorak Shep yesterday to join us for lunch and to have a look around. The food was so much better that the last few lodges that they wanted to stay for dinner too. They should now be on their way down the valley.

Base camp is very quiet, mainly Sherpas setting up camps ahead of teams arriving. It is reported that the icefall doctors have fixed the route up through the icefall to camp 1. Apparently, there is one crevasse crossing 5 ladders wide!!

11 April - Everest Basecamp

Don't believe the technology! The expedition team are all currently settling in to BC having walked up from Gorak Shep this morning. Meanwhile the trek team, along with David (along with his spot device) ascended Kala Pattar and are spending another night down the valley. The trek team will visit us for lunch tomorrow before heading down and home next weekend. Photo above: Rackman was responsible for providing safe drinking water on the trek in. Usually seen carrying a huge kettle of boiled water both before breakfast and last thing at night. Boiled water saves on buying bottled water and creating rubbish.

There is quite a bit more snow around compared with this time last year so in the warm afternoon sun there are plenty of little streams running everywhere. Our Sherpa team have been extremely busy over the past few weeks getting everything ready for our arrival - creating tent platforms and of course, putting up tents. This year's site is higher in elevation and slightly further up the glacier than last year so we have a great view of the icefall directly opposite our tents. We also have a fantastic terrace complete with stunning views in front of the mess tent - just the place for morning coffee.

Preparations continue, setting up power & communications while clients settle in to their new home. Those returning are very happy to be back and those newbies are very impressed so far. Cook Dawa's, lunch including freshly baked bread, was extremely popular after the not so great offerings of the last couple of lodges on our trek in.

So the trekkers are coming for lunch tomorrow and I suspect the showers will get tested in the morning sun before they arrive. There is then talk of our Puja happening on Monday. Following that there'll be a few acclimatisation days so it will be next weekend before we head up the mountain

Team in Dingboche: update from the past few days07/Apr/15

03 April Namche

So after the usual domestic airport shenanigans and a very long delay in getting out of Kathmandu due to weather, then half the bags not turning up, it meant the team had to spend an unexpected night in Lukla before setting off on the trek. So for anyone closely following the planned itinerary that means the team are a day behind schedule.

Meanwhile, to add to the fun I got a call while waiting to fly from Shiv saying that I must attend a ministry briefing before the expedition permit would be issued. So as the team eventually left for Lukla, I was forced to wait around the hotel for 24 hours before I could attend a very short briefing and get the all important permit.

Up in the hills the team walked to the planned overnight at Monjo, then continued up the steep trail to Namche and all it's delights to tempt the trekker of their Rupees. My flight was much more straightfroward, if a little bouncy in places, getting me into Lukla before 0700.

Without the need to wait for anyone or take photos, I was able to take a relatively brisk solo plod up to Namche. Arriving in under 6 hours I felt I deserved of double cakes!

With a crisp clear sky this morning and a "rest" day planned the team split to complete a number of different acclimatisation walks gaining height to take in the views up the valley and possibly including a visit to the neighbouring village of Kumjung and not surprisingly, the bakery.

A damp afternoon meant most people searched out the best burgers, cakes and WiFi Namche has to offer. Despite what seems to be the constant need to be connected to the outside world for some of the team, the consensus is that cakes are more important!

04 April Debuche

After a second night in Namche, time to move on up the valley (along with many others!) While the expedition team headed off into the distance the trek team, on their first trip, took things more leisurely taking in the spectacular views and stopping to take plenty of photos.

So, in total we are now quite a large group with a wide mix of nationalities, American, German, Irish, Australian, Italian, Finnish, Welsh, Scottish as well as Brits.

After dropping down to cross the river it's time for the long hot climb up to Tangboche, with the monastery and of course bakery.

Everyone made the ascent in very good time to enjoy the sweet delights on offer. And for the second year running the apple crumble remains the clear winner of best cake on the trek. Although who knows what new delights may await in Dingboche, our next stop?

With so many people in Namche yesterday afternoon the Internet was unusable, and on arrival today we learned that the mast used to connect here was damaged in the winter snows, so posting will have to wait a little longer.

05 April Dingboche

The trail seemed even busier today, we stopped by Pangboche to visit Lama Geshi to receive his blessing for a safe climb. With so many teams around we had the super express service lasting only quarter of an hour (although we had been waiting to go in for well over an hour). But at least the sun shone and the mountains looked spectacular after some overnight snow.

Currently still without access to the Internet and now the mobile network is also down. But at least everyone is fit, strong and well which is good news as we are now well above 4000m.

06 April Dingboche

Party time (very briefly) last night as Selina for the second year running celebrated her birthday in Dingboche. Next year she's promised herself she'll be on a beach somewhere warm.

Today, being another "rest day", meant washing for some and a wander up the ridge behind the village towards Pokalde in order to gain some further altitude. Gaining height, the views were as amazing as ever, so those on their first visit took plenty of photos, up the valley towards Makalu, the ever present Ama Dablam and up the main valley towards Lobuche. Our high point was just over 5000m.

Connection to the outside world has been tricky; when there is a mobile coverage it appears several UK operators block text messages from the local Nepali operator. And we've had almost no Internet connection for a few days.

So, as always, no news is good news. If you're expecting contact from one of the team and are not receiving anything, more than likley they are trying to send but the technology isn't working. (If you're waiting to hear from George - I can confirm he is fit and well!)

We plan to move up the valley to Chukkung tomorrow as planned.

2015 Everest team assembles in Kathmandu13:06 GMT, 30/Mar/15

We pretty much have our team assembled. Gavin is going to be joining us later, but everyone else has made it to a very damp Kathmandu, arriving throughout yesterday.

Firstly we had our welcoming puja ceremony at the Summit Hotel, then spent the evening catching up with friends from last year's trip and meeting our new members. With so many people returning with previous experience of what to expect, we have a very calm and relaxed atmosphere, very unlike the current electrical storm raging outside.

After briefings and some packing this morning we are heading into town for lunch and to source a few last-minute items. Following on with tradition from last year there will more than likely be some cake sampling before coming back to the hotel to finish sorting kit before an early-ish night prior to our early morning fight to Lukla (we are currently trying not to pay attention to the weather that is forecast to continue tomorrow and ignoring the knowledge that no flights went today).

Chris Groves

The Puja started at 816:40 GMT, 20/Mar/15

The Puja started at 8. I knew it would, as I had been sent a timetable for the day that stated �Chanting: 8 am.� This year�s Puja was to be important and poignant given the loss of Pasang Karma Sherpa last spring; he was ours among the 16 Sherpas who died on Everest when the avalanche struck the icefall at dawn on the 18th April. My presence was thought essential. Having arrived in Nepal one day before, I went to bed anxious, therefore, not to let my body-clock rule as that would wake me at one in the afternoon. Even though I set my alarm-clock for 6:30, to override my jet lag, I checked my watch through the night, sleeping fitfully, the reverberations of missing the Puja not lost on me. Shortly before 8, happily, I took my place alongside Shiv Raj, the man who runs our operations in Nepal, Rene from Snow Leopard tours in Holland and the Lama. Slowly the Sherpas and their families arrived, among them many accomplished mountaineers and many friends of long-standing.

A pleasant thing about a Puja is, despite the earnest intent to bless the season ahead, no one stands on ceremony. So, people come and go, they talk amongst themselves but pray as they wish to. And chang - rice beer - is central to the ceremony. Once chang is in your hand, your phuru (bowl) will be constantly refilled, if it is ever less than full to the brim. Starting at 8 in the morning, this can be a trap for the unwary, even though it is far milder than rakshi, its distilled petulant and often ruinous brother. As to chang, the Sherpanis will insist on topping you up, with charm and faux indignation if you resist, but resisting ever-so-slightly is part of the ritual. Nevertheless, with a mind to the timetable, I had 7 hours to go, and I knew I could not succumb to their pleadings so easily. To compromise, I took three sips, and let them refill 3 times � this is propitious in terms of the Puja, and also to take tsampa (barley flour) and maar (salted butter) on the rim of the phuru. With everyone happy that obligations to the Puja had been met, the drinking of chang from that point forward became merely social but, even then, my empty bowl was automatically filled and I was bidded to drink � a circle broken only by keeping the bowl untouched after a refill (but drinking it completely as you leave.)

Once everyone had had their three fills of chang, the lama, who had been intoning prayers all the time, signalled the culmination of the religious ceremony. As his chants grew in volume, tone and urgency, we all gathered around, chang in one hand, tsampa in the other. Meanwhile, the Sherpas had scampered atop the nearby roofs and trees, to stream the newly-blessed prayer flags, now criss-crossing overhead, and had raised a pole adorned with flags as the centre-piece. We all offered three drops of chang to Mother Earth and, as the lama incanted the final prayer, amidst a huge rising-cry sounding like �whooo-a� we all let loose 3 flings of tsampa towards the prayer flags. Of course, the breeze made certain we were all duly dusted in tsampa, the fun of which always has people laughing as the prayers of a Puja come to an end. Next item on the agenda: Sherpa folk dancing. The Sherpas, resplendently dressed in traditional tunics and hats, joined arms and danced in an extended line; swaying with simple, rhythmic steps and signing with a clear passion, perhaps I thought, each holding in mind and missing the entwining arms of their lost brother, Pasang Karma. Before bringing the more formal bit of the ceremony to an end and lunch, there were to be speeches � as per the programme, I was relaxed as I was not involved. The news that the programme was subject to amendment, on the hoof, and I was to speak came just moments before. Shiv Raj sidled up and handed me the microphone; �Simon, I thought you should make a speech�. Complaining that it wasn�t on the schedule would have been lame, besides, my speech was then announced and expectant eyes turned towards me. It�s at moments like this that a few bowls of chang, but definitely no more than 3, help. Inhibitions also wither among friends and it would be hard to find an easier and kinder audience. So, off I went.

As I looked around, I was reminded that I owed much to those here, at the Puja. And, that that debt stretched back three decades. There was Dawa Tseri from Phakding, who had been with me as a cook boy on my first expedition to Nepal � that was to climb Kirat Chuli in 1984. When I say �boy�, I am not patronising (as once we may have unwittingly been � such were the times), he was a boy in 1984, as was I in terms of Himalayan climbing. When I met Dawa again, it was in 1993, when I trekked to Everest base camp with my father � Dawa was our Sirdar then, having worked up the ranks, and he and my father became friends, exchanging letters well after we�d returned home. And Dawa visited my family in Sheffield too, never forgetting to ask, whenever I saw him afterwards, �how�s Arnie?� � Arnie was our dog!

Then there was Pema, smiling radiantly. This was the same gleeful smile that I remembered peering into the snow-hole which had been my 7,200-m home for a week whilst I carried loads across Everest�s north face to the Hornbein Couloir. That was when we were trying to climb the West Ridge in 1992. He was a joy to see that day, and this, as he always is.

Casting my mind forward a decade, there was Lombu (�tall�) Tenzing too, who had ridden to my rescue on the north side of Everest when I had become snow-bound in 2006 � he brought fresh food and, more importantly for my escape, a truck. Since then, we have entrusted many trekking groups to his leadership, which Tenzing has carried out expertly and with great appreciation from our teams.

Sitting among the throng was Nima Temba, Pema�s brother � and Everest climber, several times over. Nima has been the anchor of our Everest expeditions for more than a decade, master-minding the logistics that have enabled us to outperform other Everest teams.

Next, my mind was on the most recent decade and so my thanks moved to the younger Sherpas. Some were caught up directly in last year�s Everest avalanche. There was Wangdi who had got away with a sprained ankle, and Chongba who went unscathed physically. I had last met Wangdi immediately after the accident in Kathmandu, so it was good to see him now, sprightly taken part in the day�s dancing. In 2012, I had spent 5 weeks with Chongba strolling around Dolpa and completing our reconnaissance of Putha Hiunchuli. That trip had enabled Jagged Globe to attempt the mountain in 2013 and 2014, with properly constituted teams of climbers. And I could not overlook Tawa Lhakpa and his wonderful wife, Pasang, who were with me on Mera Peak in 2007 have taken many treks for us throughout Nepal.

So there they were, not all of them of course, but many Sherpas who have written the story of Jagged Globe in Nepal and who have been with me too during my own Himalayan journey over 30 years.

Don�t worry, I didn�t bang on too long and, despite the long flight, little sleep and a bottomless phuru of chang, whilst I could have done so easily, I didn�t become tired and emotional either!

Speeches done, we moved on to dhal bhat for lunch and an afternoon of relaxed chat. Once it cooled a little, the dancing resumed and, I am told, it and the chang stretched well into the evening. At least, that is, for those who ignored the last item in the agenda, �Puja ends: 3 pm�. By 3:30 pm, I was snoring (naturally, I would plead this deep sleep was a symptom of my body-clock not Chang � although you might spot the flaw in that argument!)

Everest 2015 - Leaders, Sherpas and pre-season puja18:00 GMT, 04/Mar/15

Everest season is just around the corner and Jagged Globe Managing Director, Simon Lowe, is flying out to Nepal next week for our Sherpa Puja on 13 March. Our freight also leaves the UK next week, with the team arriving in Kathmandu at the end of the month.

The 2015 expedition will be led by David Hamilton and Chris Groves and our Sirdar is Pemchirri Sherpa.

HA Sherpas:
Mingma Tsering Sherpa
Chhimi Gurung
Sangye Sherpa
Ngmia Kancha Sherpa
Mingma Sherpa
Wangdi Sherpa
Pemba Chhongbi Sherpa
Ongdik Bhote
And Dawa Sherpa
Angringi Sherpa

BC staff and cook team:
Gavin Melgaard (Chef)
Kanchha Man Tamang (BC Cook)
Dawa Sherpa (Camp 2 Cook)
Rakesh Tamang (Camp II kitchen)
Pemba Sherpa (BC Kitchen)
Suku man Tamang (BC Kitchen)

We'll update the blog later in the month with more news about the expedition.

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Leader - David Hamilton

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About this expedition