Gasherbrum II 2022
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Departing base camp22/Jul/22
The team hope to leave base camp tomorrow (24 July) to begin the 4-day walk to Skardu. Rui and Luke with 3 staff made the long trip from Camp 2 to base camp with large loads. Davif Hamilton and Paul spent most of the day avoiding the heat of the sun at Camp 1 and will travel to base camp overnight tonight, where they will join the others closing down base camp tomorrow morning.
Summit!21/Jul/22
The team left Camp 3 at 2230hrs last night (21 July) with Paul summiting this morning (22 July) at 0825hrs with local climbers working for the expedition, Zakir from Hushe and Hassan from Shigar. Luke climbed to 7350m and Rui reached 7400m, before descending with David back down to Camp 3. Note that none of our team were climbing on 02. We'll post another update when we have it, but for now they are focussed on descending as the plan is to leave BC 24 July. Congratulation to all of the team.
Camp 3 (6985m)20/Jul/22
The team climbed from Camp 2 (6550m) to Camp 3 (6985m) this morning (21 July). Strong winds prevented the planned 0300hrs start and they eventually left at 0500hrs. Conditions were excellent and they arrived at 0800hrs. Despite the windy conditions a few strong climbers made the first G2 summit of the season today. Several groups will join forces tomorrow and more than 30 climbers will be aiming for the summit. The weather forecast looks good, although last night's winds were not predicted to be as strong as the climbers experienced. Everyone is hoping for low winds and favourable conditions tonight.
Loads carried to Camp 319/Jul/22
Everything is proceeding according to plan. Two of our local staff climbed to Camp 3 (c7000m) early this morning and dropped tents, stoves and gas. The whole team will climb to Camp 3 tomorrow morning ready for our summit attempt on Friday 22 July. Several teams are hoping to make the first G2 summit of the season on 21 July, and we are hoping to be able to follow a good trail the following day. The weather forecast remains good for the next few days.
Resting in Camp 2 (6550m)18/Jul/22
The good weather is continuing at Gasherbrum II. The team left Camp 1 at 0330hrs and reached Camp 2 (6550m) at 0800hrs. Most of the climb is on steep snow and ice and equipped with fixed ropes. We are sharing the Camp 2 site with a few other climbers and some groups moved ahead of us to Camp 3 today. If all goes well tomorrow our 3 local staff will move equipment to Camp 3 while we have a rest and acclimatisation day at Camp 2. We will then be ready to climb to Camp 3 the following day (Thursday).
Waiting at Camp 117/Jul/22
The team has decided to spend an extra day at Camp 1 to allow snow conditions on the mountain to stabilise. The route to Camp 2 has been opened this morning by another group and our team are planning to move up to Camp 2 tomorrow morning. Weather conditions are forecast to be warm and sunny for the next few days.
In Camp 1 on summit push16/Jul/22
All 4 members of the climbing team together with 4 local staff left BC at 0100hrs this morning (17 July) to begin their summit push. Conditions on the lower part of the icefall were easier than expected, but the more level upper part was challenging due to deep fresh snow. Most of the trip was accomplished in the cool early morning temperatures, but the final hour was subject to hot sunshine. The team reached Camp 1 at 0900hrs and found the 4 tents in good condition. If the warm conditions stablise the slopes leading to camp 2 the team intend to move up early tomorrow morning.
Summit bid14/Jul/22
The poor weather conditions that have affected all the Karakoram 8000m peaks in recent days are ending. All the Gasherbrum II expeditions met today in base camp to agree a plan to work together to fix ropes on the upper part of the mountain and make a combined summit bid. Weather permitting most teams will leave BC early on 17 July aiming to reach the summit 20/21/22 July.
Bad weather slows progress10/Jul/22
Several days of bad weather has slowed progress on the mountain and all teams are now back in base camp. Our local staff have taken equipment (including 6 tents) to Camp 2. We are now ready to join with other teams on a bid to fix rope above Camp 2 when conditions permit.
Back in Base Camp06/Jul/22
All the team are back in base camp. They descended from Camp 2 this morning, leaving at 0200hrs and arriving at 0830hrs. Very mild temperatures making travel difficult on the lower mountain with much of the icefall covered in wet, rotten snow.
Back in Camp 105/Jul/22
The GII team have been in Camp 1 for two nights and tonight (6 July) will be the third. Although the ropes are now fixed to Camp 2 the team have been unable to proceed due to unexpected bad weather. They are aiming to descend to Base Camp tomorrow (7 July) and re-ascend after a few days of rest.
Pushing the route to Camp 204/Jul/22
The five climbers, plus four local staff left base camp at midnight on Sunday and arrived at Camp 1 (5920m) at 0830 Monday morning. The route has some technical sections, but is becoming increasingly straightforward to navigate after several days of warm weather. The route to Camp 2 is not fully opened yet. We hope to work with another small team to fix ropes to Camp 2 in the next few days, enabling our whole team to move up and occupy Camp 2.
Back in BC after night at Camp 130/Jun/22
The Jagged Globe GII team are all back in BC after spending one night at Camp 1 (5900m). The route through the icefall was more difficult than expected. We are working with the only other major team on the mountain to identify and maintain the best route through the icefall. Soon work will begin to fix the route to Camp 2. Sadly one of the local climbers assisting our expedition fell while descending the icefall yesterday and damaged his shoulder. We are working to arrange a helicopter evacuation to hospital in Skardu. The team will now have a few days rest in BC before returning to the mountain on 3 July.
Putting in the route to camp 128/Jun/22
David reports that the Icefall is proving harder than expected. They will try to push the route through to Camp 1 on 30 June in cooperation with other teams. Our team may also move to sleep at Camp 1 on that date. Conditions are still very warm and sunny. There is phone signal about two hours walk from Base Camp, so they hope to get a photo to us soon!
Hot and sunny weather in the mountains.26/Jun/22
Hot and sunny weather in the mountains. Clear blue skies and warm sunshine. We are still the only climbing expedition in Base Camp. Today David and 4 staff started to open the route to Camp 1. The icefall is still covered in 20-30cm of fresh snow that fell last week. This is covering most of the ice features and crevasses, but is expected to melt away given a week of good weather. Today the team investigated the first 20% of the route. They hope to identify and mark the route over the next two days. Warm day time temperatures make it advisable to start from BC at dawn and return by mid-morning.
Another team arrives in base camp26/Jun/22
A second group has arrived in base camp. A joint effort by Kobler and 360 Expeditions. David estimates they have around 12 members, 6 Sherpas, 5 High Altitude Porters and 120 cylinders of oxygen.
Team in base camp22/Jun/22
David send an InReach message on Monday to report that the team were all in base camp. They had difficult walking conditions with lots of new snow and it took them 10 hours from Concordia. They were the first team of the season to arrive in base camp at 5075m.
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Leader - David Hamilton
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About these courses
Gasherbrum II is the safest and 'easiest' of the Karakoram 8,000m peaks. It is an ideal choice for suitably experienced climbers wishing to attempt their first 8,000m peak. The route offers straightforward climbing in a superb and dramatic location. Well organised and adequately resourced expeditions to this peak have enjoyed high rates of success in recent years.
