Manaslu 2012

Blog

Back in Kathmandu13:07 GMT, 28/Sep/12

27 September
Another chilly early wake up, the porters were coming. Even by 0730 we were pretty much packed and our home for the last couple of weeks was being dismantled around us. The upward trail was pretty quiet, a couple of people were descending, reporting that things didn't look great higher up. After breakfast as the porters started to arrive the team help packed away the sleeping tents then looked on helpless, not getting involved in what appeared to be chaos.

It probably took a good 30 minutes to descend through the base camp, chatting and saying good bye to friends we'd met. A few were staying on, ever hopeful, but I knew we had made the right choice even in they end up getting to the top in the next few days. The weather was great and the views fantastic, so we took our time heading down, stopping for photos and to take a layer off as the temperature rose.

With aching legs we arrived back in Samagaon a few hours later and surprisingly the first drink ordered was lemon tea, an old favourite. Everyone agreed it was a long walk down and that it wouldn't have been worth it just for a beer and to have to walk back up. Then we had a beer.

With only a 15kg baggage limit on the heli there was a busy afternoon of packing and re-packing. Then Pasang announced that because there was problems with getting enough porters he was going to stay with the loads, walking out and wouldn't be flying, so everyone should get out with all their bags. Nobody was in a party mood, we managed another beer but everyone went to bed before 8pm. As if by magic all 55 loads had come down the mountain (including 55kg of human waste!)

28 September
A 5am wake seemed way too early but nobody wanted to miss the flight. The pile of bags looked enormous, never mind the weight, I couldn't believe it would all go in the chopper. We we on the helipad by 0630. We waited. And waited. The phone lines were dead. We waited some more, then the distant sound heralded a heli's arrival. Quick goodbyes and we were ready for the off. But, it wasn't for us! A team that had only been waiting half an hour got in and flew off down the valley.

News filtered in that our heli had been called to help with a rescue in Kathmandu and would be another 30 minutes. (It appears yet more people visiting the mountains have lost their lives, this time as their aeroplane crashed.) I think it finally arrived 3 hours late. All the bags were squashed in, the pilot asked if we were all right as we sat with knees next to our ears. I asked if he was alright with the weight, he said �no problem�. Then we were off. Then we turned back as he had left his bag on the ground when he stopped for a smoke and all our bags were being loaded.

The gorge that had taken several days to walk up took about 20 minutes to fly down. The views were breathtaking and our upward trail was clearly visible below. Almost clipping the trees as we flew over countless ridges in a little over 30 minutes since take off, we were over Kathmandu and could feel the warmth.

All too quickly we were back in the noise, heat, dust and traffic of the capital. I think I miss base camp...

That's all from our expedition. Jerry is staying in Nepal and will join the Jagged Globe Tharpu Chuli expedition next month, Kevin, James and and I are heading home this weekend.

Chris Groves, Expedition Leader

We're done12:21 GMT, 26/Sep/12

A 5am alarm is never pleasant but the clear crisp pre-dawn and the promise of a good day in the mountains meant I didn't waste any time getting ready. There was a nice surprise on entering the dining tent � the heater was on. After a quick breakfast we were off, just as the sun touched the rocky spire above us. There were a couple of people about but basically we had the mountain to ourselves. We had to be careful of a few patches of ice as we ascended. Once on the glacier the snow was crisp and firm and we made excellent progress apart from stopping for many photos. The final slopes up to C1 in the heat of the sun were quite draining but it was good to be back up there. More photos.

Looking upwards the evidence of the avalanche was very clear, as were the dangers of seracs and cornices high above the route. As if on cue, there was a small avalanche just above and to the left of us. Very quickly it was apparent that nobody was really interested in going any higher just to turn around and come back down again, especially if the mountain was falling down. C1 gave a very clear view of the dangers higher up. Pasang had been very clear a few days ago that he thought the risks were too high. With most of the major teams already deciding the same regrettably, our attempt too was done.

We helped the Sherpas clear the camp, packed up and returned to BC. Kevin needs a special mention for carrying 12 days worth of uneaten high altitude rations down � but I think he was only after the chocolate within.

Preparations are under way for our departure, much depends on the availability of porters then seats on helicopters and as ever, the weather. So we are unsure of the timings of the rest of our adventure and when we'll get back to Kathmandu. One thing's for sure though, a beer can't be far away!

Final score: Manaslu 2 Chris 0

Heading up to C1 tomorrow13:59 GMT, 25/Sep/12

A very quiet day. I expected a bit more movement up the mountain than there has been. I guess BC is about two thirds the size it was as a number of teams have packed up and left. In our little camp it does feel as if we're the only ones here. The weather continues to be good so the views are still stunning.

Tomorrow the plan is to have a big day out with very light packs, go up to C1 and then beyond up the fixed ropes towards low C2. This route was unaffected by the avalanche. As well as preventing madness setting in and getting a bit of exercise, we'll get to see more of the mountain and get a better idea of the conditions higher up. From observations through the binoculars today it does appear that snow is being blown around, potentially making the upper slopes hazardous. Another problem in our way is that the group supposed to be fixing ropes higher up aren't moving. So with the majority of sherpas not happy we're in a state of limbo. The lure of beers down in the valley is great but so far we resist...

Reflecting in Base Camp14:40 GMT, 24/Sep/12

Another different day in BC. Very subdued, with everyone reflecting on yesterday's tragic events. There is a high degree of uncertainty, of what will happen next and decisions will be made by teams individually. There is a strong feeling amongst the Sherpas that the mountain is too dangerous and that everyone should pack up and go home. Indeed, a few teams are packed and ready to go tomorrow. However, teams are still arriving � there were 2 more pujas today � I managed to gatecrash one as I knew one of the Sherpas � more beer & chocolate!

Pasang was one of the search team today and flew up to the site of our intended Camp 2 in one of the many heli flights this morning. The scale of the avalanche is huge - maybe 300m wide and 1000m long, the majority of the debris filling the crevasses above the lower Camp 2, so it could have gone even further. Pasang reported seeing at least 40 boots in the snow � the avalanche hit when most people were in their tents.

While the danger of serac fall remains, there hasn't been any further snow so the slopes are in theory much safer than they were a couple of days ago. So I return to my stock answer to the question �what is going to happen?� - I don't know! We will wait a couple of days, listen to reports that come back from those heading up tomorrow then maybe have a look ourselves. We need to return to Camp 1 at some point to retrieve gear at least.

Sorry photo fans, but nothing for you this time

Team in BC04:00 GMT, 23/Sep/12

2020 local time. Chris has updated via Pasang (our Sirdar/IFMGA Guide). It sounds as though 30 people were avalanched in the "higher" camp 2 (some people use this as their camp 3 at c6700m). There are 8 fatalities and 3 people still missing. The route from C2-C3 remains very threatened by serac fall. Pasang will be be going up tomorrow as part of search team. The low C2 was protected by 3 large crevasses above it, so there was only wind damage (considerable). There were c100 people in that camp last night. Obviously our team have no plans for the next few days. Our thoughts go out to those who have been directly affected by this morning's events.

1500 local time. Chris has updated us to say that all Jagged Globe team and staff are safe in Base Camp. All the injured are off the hill, the worst in Kathmandu. Chris says it looks as though 8 people have been killed. Reports in the Himalayan Times say 13 missing and 12 rescued.

The Jagged Globe team are safe in BC on 23 September. Our expedition leader, Chris Groves, phoned this morning to say there has been a major incident on the mountain, with an avalanche in the area of Camp 2 at around 0510 local time. Chris understood that there were approximately 50 people in camp 2, but does not know how many people have been affected by the avalanche. Two of our Sherpas, Thundu and Tsering are now in Camp 1 awaiting further instructions. We know that Thundu's brother, Mingma and his team are OK. We will add more details when we get them. For now, our thoughts are with all those who have been caught up in this.

Rest day16:57 GMT, 22/Sep/12

Rest day = eating, showering, eating, resting and eating. Possibly a bit of reading. A quiet day. Hopefully ensuring everyone is ready to head back up to C1 in the morning and onwards to C2 on Monday. There are currently teams high on the mountain so we may get to hear of people on the top tomorrow, although there are concerns about the wind.

Dawa has provided us with a fine selection of breads today but I fear for this evening's dessert � I have been interfering in his kitchen to create a cheesecake! Great hot shower this morning by using tepid water in the reservoir rather than the ice cold water we tried the other day. Looking through binoculars there has been a steady stream of people heading up to the higher camps. Although we've had all sorts of weather in BC reports from people coming down say the sun remains fierce higher up.

The only other piece of news is that we had a visit from our liaison officer this afternoon, we had a chat, he had some lunch then left! He'd walked in as we had, been rained on constantly and suffered with the leeches

A night at camp 1 and up to 5,800m14:06 GMT, 21/Sep/12

1800 and we're back in a familiar cold, damp base camp. But earlier on we were complaining it was too hot and that the sun was too fierce � we're never happy!

Yesterday started with another crisp, clear morning with stunning views all around. Thundu and Tsering were off early again with another load carry to C1. Thankfully, by the time we were ready to set off, some cloud had rolled in meaning it wasn't too warm. It took about 30 minutes up the ridge to a small rock step and the first section of fixed rope. Then about the same time again over rocks and on to the glacier and a short pause to put on crampons before the long wander up the glacier. Most of the way is marked by a fixed line, primarily for bad weather but very handy to clip into when crevasses need to be passed safely.

As the sky cleared we had fantastic views of the mountain above us and could see figures moving up towards C2. The best protection from the sun was to completely cover up. Unfortunately, the route steepens for the approach to C1 so it was a welcome sight to come over the last rise and see 3 shiny new red tents amongst the 60 or so other tents making up the camp, at 5,650m. The climb had taken 5 hours. The rest of the afternoon was taken up eating, drinking and melting snow. I think everyone was tucked up in feathers by 1900. A great, but tough day.

Woken by the sun on the tents at about 0630 a quick brew and a wander around taking photos was in order. It wasn't cold, so after a small breakfast we got prepared and headed up out of camp towards where the route upwards traverses left, reaching about 5,800m after an hour's warm climb. Looking down we had some great views of C1 and down the glacier to BC. After stopping at C1 on our descent for coffee and a bit of a second breakfast, we made a speedy retreat to BC, passing lots and lots of head down, slowly ascending climbers heading the opposite way. We knew we were nearly back as the snow started.

So, a rest day tomorrow then, weather dependent, back to C1 to sleep before the long hot climb up to C2.

Sun at last. Up to C1 on the 20th13:35 GMT, 19/Sep/12

At last sunshine, blue sky and a view of Manaslu and surrounding peaks � a great way to start the day. We'd had more snow overnight but skies had cleared and the zip on my tent was frozen as I was trying to get it open to see what I already knew would be the view we've been waiting for. So for about the first hour of the day folk were up this morning and all you could hear were camera shutters as people walked around with huge smiles on their faces. It was pretty warm and the sun was fierce already so breakfast was taken in the dining tent as a steady trickle of people wandered past on their journey upwards.

Thundu and Tsering,our sherpas, left at 0700 to do the first carry to C1 (5,500m). They made it in about 3 hours, put up a tent and stashed the tents, stoves and gas they'd taken up. They reported deep snow and a number of broken tents from other teams when they safely returned to BC.

Meanwhile, I got the shower set up and working, simple yet impressive although as the water was almost freezing going in to the heater the temperature coming out could have been warmer. Still, the pressure was good and it certainly felt good to be clean. Next time I'll ensure the water going in is a little warmer. But morale was certainly lifted even with tepid water

Dawa baked us some fresh bread rolls for lunch, which were really good but he is going to have to go some to beat the chocolate brownies he cooked up for pudding last night. Just in case you're feeling that we're not suffering too much the cloud all too quickly rolled back in and it's been sleeting and snowing all afternoon! I've seen a couple of weather forecasts that indicate things should be good for a few days so the plan is up to Camp 1 tomorrow (20 September) and overnight.

Our Puja Ceremony17/Sep/12

Much had happened by 0800 this morning. After quite heavy snowfall over night the tents needed to be cleared. As we assembled for breakfast the Lama was already here and preparations were under way for our Puja � the most important was the putting up of a tarp as it continued to snow. We were then ushered out of breakfast as the chanting, drumming and crashing of cymbals began.

As the ceremony progressed we were served masala tea and joined in with the throwing of rice and flour at the alter as the burning juniper provided smoke and the prayer flags fluttered. Then as proceedings drew to a close it was time to partake in some of the offerings, a shot of rum, a piece of chocolate and a beer. All before 0930. I think we had an amended version as the Lama still had 2 more Pujas to oversee. As we'd had a shortened breakfast it seemed only right to retire to the dining tent for coffee & chocolate biscuits. (Somehow a shot of rum made it in there too)

No real improvement to the weather although we did get a very brief glimpse of the top as our Puja started � we hope this is a good sign. It's been a bit warmer but snow continues to fall. A few teams have headed up past our camp today obviously going with the optimistic forecast. Pasang is keen that we get 2 good weather days before we head up so that the snow and route can settle down.

It has come to the teams notice that our very comfy chairs in base camp are called �Sunn Camp� - very funny!

It stopped raining14:40 GMT, 17/Sep/12

It's been snowing for 20 hours or so.

I've just been clearing tents for the 4th time today. The plan was always to stay in BC today but it looks like we might be here another day (at least). The weather rumours are either it will clear tomorrow or we're stuck with this until the 21st. Thundu and Tsring have yet to establish our C1. Reports say that tents are being buried up there. That with fresh snow covering crevasses means there's no rush for them or us to venture upwards. But it is still quite frustrating not to mention cold and damp sitting around BC.

So this morning it was back to school, I ran a couple of training sessions, one on camping and cooking on snow in readiness for our trips up the mountain. And another, with Pasang, on the oxygen set up we'll be using on summit day. Unfortunately, that is about as exciting as it got today. I don't think it is possible to drink or eat any more, but Dawa continues to work his magic in the cook tent as I type.

Looking forward to our Puja tomorrow and (the very slim) possibility of heading up to C1.

Training and up to 5,150m07:48 GMT, 17/Sep/12

16 September
We managed to get the best of the weather this morning when it briefly stopped raining (but still cloudy) for our trip up on to the glacier. So we had a few hours of refreshing, fine-tuning and practising moving up and down fixed lines on both rock and the glacier as we reached a new high point of 5,150m.

There weren't too may people about, a few teams doing just what we were and a few coming down from C1, reporting there'd been some snow.

Saturday night was movie night � got the generator running and the DVD / projector and speakers all working � helps to pass the long evenings. I realise there'll be little sympathy, but we also had a fantastic pizza for lunch today too.

Almost dark now, still in the cloud and still raining! Hoping the forecast is right and things start to improve tomorrow.

Jerry's trek summary07:32 GMT, 17/Sep/12

Team member, Jerry, has written this summary of the trek to base camp and why he felt that walking in, rather than using a helicopter, was a valuable experience...

Over the past fortnight, the sight and sound of helicopters overhead, taking other teams in to Samagoan, at about 3,500m, has become familiar to us, and has prompted quite a lot of discussion within the team about what they are missing out on.

It's very normal to fly in to Lukla or Pokhara in the same way as others are flying in to Samagoan, but one of the pleasures of this expedition so far has been the opportunity to see parts of Nepal during the trek in to Manaslu Base Camp, which none of us has experienced before.

Of course, there has also been the plus of allowing us to test and improve our fitness, acclimatise at a sensible rate and to settle back into expedition life. However, we are all agreed that there has also been something deeply satisfying about walking in to the mountain from scratch (well, nearly, starting from 600 metres or so) in the way that Tilman and Shipton would have done, albeit without the vast train of porters!

We've walked in through the green farmlands that one normally glimpses from the tiny windows of a light aircraft, along narrow pathways above boiling rivers racing in spate through deep cut gorges, through small villages and tiny farmsteads and past maize harvests drying on blankets in the sun. All the time we have been meeting the local people for whom these paths are the main routes through otherwise impassable mountains, marvelling at their hardiness and the loads they carry and making them grin at our light packs, perspiration and poor pronunciation of �Namaste�.

As we have climbed through the Larke La in the Gorkha region, we have seen the traditional dress of the people change and the growing influence of Tibetan Buddhism in the scenery and landscape. We walked in the sun one day through a beautiful valley, among pine forests where the only sounds were of running water and the prayer flags that hung from the many chortens, kani gates, mani walls and gompas gently flapping in the light breeze.

Of course, it hasn't all been a bed of roses � staying at tea houses has been both fantastic and challenging at times and walking in 35�C heat and unknown but unpleasant humidity in the low lying regions left us sweaty, uncomfortable, mosquito harassed, sleep deprived and a little on the smelly side. However, discomforts of this sort have been far outweighed by the landscape we have passed through.

The whole experience to date has also bonded us as a team before we set foot in the Shangri-La that is Jagged Globe Base Camp. While we are now eagerly anticipating our move to Camp 1 and getting on with the climbing that we all came here to do, none of us would have missed the experience of the past fortnight if offered a cushy ride in to just below Base Camp by helicopter instead.

That said, we are all honest enough to admit that we will welcome just such a cushy ride when the time comes to return to Kathmandu in mid October!

Rain in BC07:28 GMT, 17/Sep/12

15 September
Maybe I should have kept quiet about it not raining! It's pretty much been raining constantly since we arrived. Nobody has felt much like doing anything outside but we've been busy checking and sorting food, including preparing 4 days worth of high altitude rations � I don't think we'll go hungry (or that everything will get eaten) but we'll see, and adjust for the next time. The other job ticked off the list today has been looking at fixed rope systems � the devices and set up we need to safely travel on the mountain and glacier using fixed ropes. Even if it's raining we'll be out practising tomorrow as we take a walk up a little higher towards camp 1.

This morning Pasang and I attended a meeting with representatives from most of the other teams here. Currently, there are approximately 132 climbers with 26 guides and 101 sherpas on 22 permits. Unfortunately, the groups that were here in the spring have left quite a lot of rubbish all over the base camp area, so in addition to making sure we leave our sites tidy everyone has been asked to do their bit at tiding up rubbish left by others and leaving the mountain as it should be.

Base Camp12:40 GMT, 14/Sep/12

14 September � up to base camp
We're in the clouds at base camp. We've been here about 5 hours and everyone has made a good start at settling in. Our day started early as bags needed to be ready for 0600 as loads were sorted for the porters. Eventually bags disappeared either to be carried by person or yak. We let them get ahead before setting off at a nice steady pace. Having had rain overnight again the trail was pretty muddy, especially as we were following the yaks.

As we were in cloud all the way there wasn't really any view but it did mean you couldn't really see how far up the trail went ahead. Eventually, we came across the first tent, visibility was limited but as we climbed up it was obvious there were tents everywhere. We kept climbing having been told that we were looking for the second tier. Briefly stopping to say hello to people we'd seen on the trek in, and after a good 15 minutes since the first tents, there was a small sign saying �Jagged Globe Camp�. Everyone made camp in 4.5 hours to be met by our 3rd sherpa, Tsring Pema with hot orange. Now with our kitchen assistant Pasang 2 we are a full team.

It's been raining since we got here but unbelievably we didn't get rained on once during our trek. My altimeter reads 4,830m, GPS, 4,920m. I am looking forward to what will hopefully be a clear morning and I can get an better idea of how big base camp is. Despite the considerable height gain today everyone is feeling good though maybe a little damp and much cooler than we've been used to.

Pasang went to see the local Lama at the monastery yesterday who said Tuesday was the best day for Puja or blessing ceremony. Although we will venture higher before then we will not sleep at camp 1 until after the Puja. Tomorrow will be mostly spent sorting equipment and supplies, I will also need to run a couple of training sessions before we climb higher.

It's great to be here. Have a good weekend - Chris

For Sale: Umbrella, UNUSED, will swap for a beer. Purchased for the trek in but not required

Acclimatisation hike to Samdo12:16 GMT, 13/Sep/12

Just a quick update today. It's been another acclimatisation walk up the valley to the next village � Samdo. Then to gain a bit more height, we went up the near vertical juniper on the hillside behind the village reaching a high point of 4,300m before we'd had enough. Thankfully we avoided the rain that fell on Samagaon. There was a large herd of yak on the trail as we returned back down the valley, so I can now add Yak Herder to my CV.

I've been talking to several people as they come and go, the route on the mountain is well established but there are in the region of 300 people up there. Still, we're all ready for our move up to base camp tomorrow, even if it's just to get away from the building work here at the tea house.

First thing this morning we finally got a view of the mountain (see photo).

In Sama Goan13:08 GMT, 12/Sep/12

11 September
We woke up to thick cloud. Our porters were away be 0700 so they could drop our bags then head back down on their journey home. Thankfully the cloud had cleared by the time we set off on the steady climb to Syala, then on to Samagaon. As with previous days we saw lots of construction work going on. Apparently as the Annapurna Circuit now has a road along a large part of it the locals are hoping that the Manaslu Circuit will become a popular trekking route.

After a couple of easy hours we reached our destination at c3500m and met up with Thundu, another of our sherpas and Pasang's older brother � it was great to see him as I'd worked with him before on Manaslu and Cho Oyu. There was a great need for chocolate but none for sale, I located one of our barrels that contained some but it was locked and the key was up in base camp. Later James, Kevin and Jerry searched the village and found Mars bars. And as if by magic some appeared in our lodge later along with some Snickers.

Yet again our room had only just been finished, well sort of, its got windows (with glass in) but bare stone walls that you can see daylight through. It's the same lodge the Jagged Globe team stayed in before, but most of it has been knocked down and is being rebuilt about 5 times as big. It's a popular spot with many different nationalities staying � Chilean, Swiss, Scottish, American, Chinese, Polish, Irish and English

12 September Woke to chaos as nearly 70 loads from 3 other teams were waiting to to be taken up to BC, somehow it quickly disappeared carried mainly by local women and yaks. It was a bit like the driving in Kathmandu, there is a system - it's just that we don't understand it. Apparently, the summit of Manaslu had been briefly visable at 0600 but quickly got covered by cloud.

After breakfast we set off for Punggyen Gompa a few hours walk away to aid our acclimatisation. We had many tantalising glimpses of high snowy peaks through the swirling cloud as we climbed up by the side of a roaring river and wandered across a high pasture. Beyond the gompa we climbed to some prayer flags at just under 4,100m and took in the view of grazing yaks below. Everyone coped really well without problems, we could have gone further and higher but there's no rush. Then we returned to our base to sort loads for the up lift to BC � most likely on Friday. I'm planning another acclimatisation walk up the valley tomorrow with the aim of getting to 5,000m.

Chris Groves

On the trek in09/Sep/12

The team are in Namru and finally have a satellite signal. Here's an update from the past week...

Tuesday 4 September
The adventure begins! After a 0630 breakfast we loaded ourselves into a 4WD and made our escape from Kathmandu. Progress was slow due to traffic and the state of the the roads. Once we turned off the main road the surface was much better but it wasn't to last for long - we fairly quickly tuned off on to a dirt track and started climbing. There were great views, just a few landslides that were easily overcome then we caught up with a couple of buses that quickly got stuck in some mud. After a short delay we got passed and continued onwards. Four hours into our journey it was lunch time, then a couple of hours further to our stop, Arughat.

Before departing Kathmandu I had been told there was no problem with the road. What this turned out to mean was that that there were several landslides on the usual route so we were taking a less-travelled route. After some excellent singletrack where 2 wheels may have been better than 4, we arrived at the way down to town. Pasang and Dawa jumped out of their cramped seats in the back and seemed to enjoy running out in front moving rocks so we could get though. Definitely not a route used that often, but we had made town in good time. Speaking to others later their journey had involved a number of vehicles, some walking and a lot of pushing, so huge thanks to Depo our careful and skilled driver. It was noticeably much warmer than Kathmandu and more humid. But at least between power cuts we had fans in the lodge.

Wednesday 5 September � the trek begins
Porters arrived at 0730 to collect bags. After omelets and chapatis for breakfast and an admin visit to the police post, we set off. After about 2 steps the sweat was pouring off everyone. The itinerary for the day was determined by the availability of stopping points, so it was only 90 minutes to a very leisurely lunch at Arket, then 2hrs on to where we are now, our overnight at Soti Khola.

We have already ticked crossing a rickety bamboo bridge and a couple of swaying suspension bridges. It feels great to have made a start and to have left vehicles behind. I know I shouldn't complain, but it would be more comfortable if it was cooler and much less humid � that will come in time now doubt.

6 September
Similar to previous day's trek, 2.5hrs to lunch and a long break. Then 2hrs to Macha Khola and our lodge for the night. As we left the village we also left the rice and banana plants of the previous days, though these became signs that we were approaching a village for a while yet. Our path was cut into the rock face with some pretty steep steps. Thankfully everyone automatically moved to the inside when we met descending pack horses. Along the way we saw several impressive cascades of water tumbling down from a few hundred feet above us. By the time we reached our tea house we were used to crossing bridges and were ready for a cold drink. The temperature was still way too warm and it was so humid having gained little overall height.

This feels like a real expedition with a long approach through the jungle � there is a constant noise either from insects or the roar of the river.

7 September
Another shortish morning to lunch at Tatopani. Here we found three hot water spouts of differing temperature. A warm wash was very welcome, I then did as the locals and had a shave. After crossing the main river, the Buri Gandaki, for the first time, we started the climb up to Jagat. On previous afternoons it had clouded over but not today, so the going got even hotter, but we were rewarded with the best tea house so far. Along the way we'd seen a number of monkeys and some spectacular butterflies.

8 September
We awoke to a fantastic sunny day but as we were now in the Manaslu conservation area before we could leave the village we had to visit to police post to complete some formalities. As we moved up the valley the villages changed character � the streets were mostly paved and the fields contained maize rather than rice. We were starting to see a Tibetan / Buddhist influence now with Mani stones, prayer flags and Kani entrance arches.

Our trail was often high above the river as the gorge narrowed. After a long climb we reached lunch at Philim � spring rolls and chips and a chance to cool off and sit out the midday sun before onwards to the small village of Deng, our overnight for today. We crossed the main river several times and had a longer (4hr) afternoon but there was nowhere really to stop in between. This means we are now a day in front of the planned itinerary, although very early on it's good to have a day in hand.

Effectively today we crossed to the Northern side of the Himalayan divide. Also we had a first glimpse of a big snowy hill � Shinigri Himal c7200m

9 September
Not much happening in Deng, just all the teams walking in struggling to fit in the only tea house � even that was still being built as we arrived but it did the job. Early morning cloud burnt off the the sun and heat became pretty fierce. The other hazard today was the 100+ horses descending past us having already taken their loads up the valley for other teams. We heard word that our sherpas and equipment are still waiting in the queue at Sama Goan to go up to base camp � only the villagers there are able to do the portering up and there are many teams heading up this season.

So after a long hot morning traversing the hillside high above the river, a surprisingly short (2hr) afternoon up through woodland found us at Namru, c2650m and a tea house with electricity, so time to charge the technology. The valley is much wider here and thankfully there is a good signal to get email at last.

Everyone is doing very well, enjoying the trek but looking forward to getting to base camp. Dawa, our cook, continues to do an outstanding job keeping us well fed.

Chris Groves, Expedition Leader

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