Everest 2014

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Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2014 abandoned12:43 GMT, 24/Apr/14

Following the terrible accident on 18th April when 16 Sherpas lost their lives, the Jagged Globe team have remained in base camp. Our Sherpa team were badly hit in the avalanche with one fatality and five injured, requiring evacuation. We are still coming to terms with the scale of this tragedy and the impact it has had on the Sherpa community. It is impossible for the team to continue with their climb without additional Sherpa support. We are cancelling the expedition as there is no prospect of replacing our Sherpas and because there aren�t now sufficient Sherpas in base camp to fix ropes on the mountain and make it safe to climb.

Our team are sad and disappointed that the expedition must come to an end. However, our thoughts are with the families and loved ones affected by the events of last week. Some of us hope to return to Everest in the future, but for now we would like to thank everyone for their support and for following the expedition. The majority of the team will leave base camp at the weekend and should arrive back in Kathmandu on 30th April.

David Hamilton / Tom Briggs

Uncertain future for 2014 Everest season09:22 GMT, 21/Apr/14

Following the accident on 18th April that claimed the lives of 16 climbing Sherpas there is increasing uncertainty about what will happen on the South side of Mt Everest this season. Base camp is very quiet. Fewer than half of the foreign climbers are present. Many are completing the acclimatisation phase of their programme on nearby peaks, and some of the late arriving teams are still trekking towards Base Camp. Sherpas from some of the larger teams have been given several days holiday and have returned down valley to visit their families. It is not clear how many of these will return to resume work on the mountain. Similarly many other Sherpsa have simply left their expeditions and gone home.

Understandably there are conflicting feelings and emotions among the Sherpa community remaining at Base Camp. The majority would rather not return to the mountain as there is an overwhelming saddness at the loss of so many members from their close knit community, and this is the sentiment expressed vocally at mass meetings by the younger sherpas. The older Sherpas are aware that without the wages from the Spring Everest season many of the climbing sherpas will experience financial hardship in the year ahead.

The Sherpas are petitioning the Government for improved compensation for the families of the dead and injured Sherpas, and are angry that very little of the large royalty payments collected by the Government find their way to the Sherpa community.

It remains unclear if the climbing season will be able to continue. The SPCC 'Icefall Doctors' have not decided yet if they are prepared to keep working to maintain the route between Base Camp and Camp 2. If there is a general consensus among the Sherpas in Base Camp to continue climbing them the SPCC workforce will probably fall into line with this. It is now certain that at least one large team will announce that they are abandoning their expedition within the next 24 hrs (I will leave them to make this news public). Other major teams may follow. This could create a situation that there are not sufficient experienced Sherpas in Base Camp to open the route from Camp 2 to the Summit. Even if several of the major teams choose to remain and climb it is possible that their Sherpa workforces will be greatly reduced and they may mot have the manpower to continue the climb within acceptable safety limits.

Over the next few days it should become clear how many Sherpas are prepared to remain at Everest and continue climbing this season. If a critical mass is achieved there will probably be a degree of reorganisation and consolidation between the western teams to allow the climb to go ahead. There are already tentative discussions between teams to see if sharing resources on the mountain would help to reduce the total amount of equipment needed at the high camps and therefore the amount of Sherpa manpower required.

The members of the Jagged Globe team in Base Camp have expressed their sympathies for the dead and injured Sherpas, particularly those employed by our own expedition. Team members are staying fit by organising day hikes around Base Camp, and are calmly awaiting developments to see if the climb will be able to proceed. All are aware that this issue is largely out of our hands, as we must wait and see what the Government and the Nepalese Mountaineering Association decide.

David Hamilton

Update on injured Sherpas and Welfare Fund11:08 GMT, 20/Apr/14

Firstly, the team at Base Camp and Jagged Globe staff in Nepal and the UK would like to thank everyone who has sent messages of condolence and support over the past 48 hours. It has been reassuring and a great comfort to us.

Of the Sherpas injured on Friday morning, Dawa Tashi is still in hospital, but he is �in good shape considering� according to Simon, who visited him this morning. Wangdi Sherpa, Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, Chimmi Lheduduk Gurung and Mitra Bahadur Tamang (Rakesh) have all received medical attention in Kathmandu and are now resting and recovering at their homes.

We have been asked about whether a fund will be set up to help the families of Sherpas affected by the avalanche. As our Nepalese partners, Summit Trekking, have a Staff Welfare Fund already established, we would invite anyone that wants to to donate to this. The details are below:

Beneficiary name: Summit Nepal Trekking Staff Welfare Fund

A/C No 01900065130011

Paying Bank :
Himalayan Bank Limited
P O Box 20590
Tridevi Marg
Thamel
Kathmandu
Nepal

Telephone: +977 1 4250202, 4250359

Fax: +977 1 4250356

Swift Code : HIMANPKA

Tom Briggs

Accident on Everest13:40 GMT, 18/Apr/14

At around 0630 on Friday morning six Jagged Globe Sherpas were caught in an avalanche on Everest three quarters of the way up The Khumbu Icefall towards Camp 1. Sherpas from a number of different teams were hit.

It is with great sadness that we can confirm that one of our Sherpas, Pasang Karma, has been killed in the avalanche. Our thoughts and prayers are with his family and loved ones. His body has been flown to Lukla to be met by members of his family from the village of Bupsa.

Of the five other Jagged Globe Sherpas involved, one was airlifted from base camp and is in hospital in Kathmandu. His injuries are less severe than originally thought, though he has suffered a broken scapula and ribs. The remaining Jagged Globe Sherpas involved in the avalanche have been treated at the HRA clinic in Everest Base Camp for slight lacerations to their heads. All Jagged Globe team members and leaders were in base camp at the time of the accident. David Hamilton has been involved in the coordination of the rescue.

We would like to offer our condolences to the families and friends of all the Sherpas who lost their lives in the avalanche this morning. We would also like to extend our thanks to the doctors at the HRA clinic in Everest Base Camp and to the helicopter pilots who were involved in the rescue.

Tom Briggs, Jagged Globe UK

Acclimatisation walk to Pumori C115:18 GMT, 17/Apr/14

The team headed up to Pumori Camp 1 this morning for some spectacular views down to base camp and of the route up the mountain. The plan for tomorrow is to run a training session on using fixed ropes and practice techniques for crossing ladders � all of which will be needed for our first venture into the icefall proper.

In other news the cinema system is working well although we seem to struggle with deciding what film to watch. With the heater on the dining tent is the best place to spend an evening. Nights are pretty cold (-10 C) until the sun hits camp just after 0730.

Chris Groves

Mixed news from Everest Base Camp09:29 GMT, 16/Apr/14

The members of the Jagged Globe Everest team are settling into life at Base Camp and preparing for the next phase of the expedition. The smooth progress of the expedition has been interrupted by an unfortunate accident involving one of the climbers.

On Monday morning Philip collapsed in Base Camp. It is not entirely clear if he fainted or simply tripped on a rock. However he fell hitting his head on the ground and lost consciousness for a few minutes. He received immediate treatment from members of the Jagged Globe team and the HRA doctor in Base Camp. Philip was carried by stretcher to the HRA clinic a short distance from the Jagged Globe Base Camp where he received oxygen and IV medication. The doctor was concerned about the possible risk of a head injury and advised immediate evacuation to hospital in Kathmandu. A helicopter was requested and fortunately one was available nearby. Within 30 minutes of the request (and little over an hour from the original incident) Philip was airlifted from Base Camp to Kathmandu.

From the news reaching us at Everest Base Camp it seems that Philip is making a good recovery in hospital. Jagged Globe staff in Kathmandu are working to make Philip's stay in hospital as comfortable as possible and all the team at Base Camp wish him a full and speedy recovery [UPDATE 11:55 GMT: Philip is no longer in hospital and is back at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu.]

Chris Groves accompanied Philip on the helicopter flight to Kathmandu on Monday and was fortunate to hitch a lift on another flight the following day returning to EBC on Tuesday morning. Meanwhile back in Base Camp the climbers have been continuing with their preparations. On Tuesday morning we had an equipment session and carefully checked all the climbing hardware that people had brought with them. In the afternoon the staff team set about untangling the complex network of wires that link the solar power set up and petrol generators with the many electrical outlets in camp. By the end of the process it should be possible for all team members to charge their electrical devices easily. Base Camp internet access has also had a few teething problems but we are hopeful that the new system in use for the first time this year will give a reliable high quality service one it is fully operational.

Today (Wednesday 16 April) the team made their first trip into the Khumbu Icefall. We spent around 3 hours practicing walking and climbing techniques on the hard glacier ice using crampons and ice axes. Everyone found the session useful and all are eager to progress further into the icefall in the next few days. Our plans are to make an acclimatisation hike on the lower slopes of Pumori on Thursday followed by a technical training session on Friday involving the use of fixed ropes and metal ladders.

More news and pictures to follow.

David Hamilton

UPDATE 11:55 GMT: Philip is no longer in hospital and is back at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu.

Settled in at base camp13/Apr/14

Sunday 13 April

We're all settled in at base camp nicely after a cool, snowy walk up yesterday. We were greeted with a sausages and mash dinner complete with onion gravy then a chocolate marble sponge pudding with chocolate sauce � all a very welcome change from the standard tea house fare of recent days.

Today was our Puja ceremony, the Buddhist blessing of our climb. Prayer flags were strung, juniper burnt, rice and flour thrown and a little bit of alcohol consumed, all in the morning sun with the icefall as a backdrop. The trekking team joined us towards the end of the ceremony then stayed for a very varied lunch including cold cuts of meat and a fine cheese board.

While the team relax this afternoon we've been trying to build on the excellent work the Sherpas have done preparing camp. We still have a few power issues to sort out and need to set up our communications systems more effectively, but we do currently have an internet connection via the new system available in base camp for the first time this year. The Nepali mobile network that we have sim cards for is still down and is likely to remain so for a few more days.

Tomorrow will be another rest day, a chance to sort more things out, make things as comfortable as possible and maybe have a hot shower (although for some reason there hasn't been a big rush on the facilities today, possibly 10am beers maybe why!)

Chris Groves

Greetings from Gorak Shep 5,220m13:03 GMT, 11/Apr/14

Greetings from Gorak Shep, the highest and last settlement before Everest base camp. It's almost 2 weeks since everyone left home and we now have only 2 hours walk to BC.

The last few days have gone as planned and with perfect weather, we have enjoyed endless stunning views. Our two night stay in Chhukung was in a brand new lodge with excellent facilities and proved very popular. Our time was productively spent with a walk towards Island Peak base camp and a climb up (almost) Chhukung Ri to a magnificent view point at 5,500m.

Our 7-hour trip over the Kongma La back into the main Khumbu Valley was also very spectacular, made even better as we only saw a couple of other people before we descended into the main valley and arrived into Lobuje.

Our overnight at Lobuje and today's trek up to Gorak Shep was the busiest in terms of other people that we've experienced so far, although it was nice to catch up with a few old acquaintances as we met other teams also heading up the trail. Our acclimatisation programme, having given us four or so more days than the average trek group, did mean that we were much quicker (and looked much healthier) than others on the trail.

With only a short morning, the majority of the climbing team headed up to the view point at Kala Patar before lunch.

Despite the lack of bakeries since Dingboche the team are surprisingly showing no signs of withdrawal. Over recent days chips seem to have succeeded cakes and pies as the new 'bad' food of choice. Although we still have a number of die hard Dhal Bhat fans, often having the local dish for both lunch and dinner. As we get closer to BC anticipation of the delights to come out of Gavin and Antony's kitchen grows.

Looking ahead, the climbing team will arrive in BC tomorrow with the trekkers visiting for Sunday lunch. Sunday has also been deemed as the most auspicious day for our Puja ceremony, after which our Sherpa team can start work on the mountain. We'll then have a week or so of training in preparation for our first visit to camp 1.

Chris Groves

Acclimatisation around Dingboche09:19 GMT, 07/Apr/14

We have continued our way up the valley via blessing by Lama Geshi in Pangboche and are currently in Dingboche, where we have already spent 2 nights. As we get higher communications and charging the technology gets more difficult. Currently there is no mobile signal here, but we expect everything to work once we arrive in base camp, hopefully earlier as we get back into the main valley in a few days time. The only power here is solar but thankfully the weather continues to follow the usual pattern of clear mornings with cloud building later on, so some charging is possible.

Yesterday, the majority of us ascended to just over 5,000m to aid acclimatisation. The team's obsession with bakeries / eating disorder continues. With Selina's birthday cake on Saturday (as well as a bakery visit) our sugar intake must be getting dangerously high.

The team also appears to be suffering from no-ama-photo-phobia � the fear of not having the perfect photo of Ama Dablam, the spectacular mountain that dominates the southern side of the valley. Other popular pastimes include Uno, Rummikub (thanks Kevin) and the card game s**thead.

After our rest day today the plan tomorrow is to head up to Chhukhung (4,730m), the last village in this fork of the valley, complete another acclimatisation walk, then head over the Kongma La (5,325m) pass. With a couple more overnights in Lobuche then Gorak Shep we are on schedule to reach base camp on Saturday.

Chris Groves

Apple pie, acclimatisation and arrival in Deboche13:20 GMT, 04/Apr/14

The team have excelled in their research into the selection of cakes, pies, pizzas and gourmet coffee available in the Solokhumbu. Yesterday's acclimatisation walks (the group split, with David leading some heading one way and I another) up to Khumjung, resulted in some very fine apple pie. The trails remain very quiet, but there is plenty of work going on in the fields, as it is the potato planting season. During a very damp (thick, heavy wet snow) and cold afternoon in Namche the calorie intake continued with some very acceptable pizza and yet more cakes. Everyone took the opportunity of a hot shower while it was available.

In the evening we were visited by representatives from the local primary school (role = 100). Justin from our trek team presented them with a couple of the latest tablet computers to help with the children's education, in particular maths and English (Justin had loaded several apps from his company (educationalappstore.com), with the promise of more to come). In Nepal English is required to access higher education and is seen as the way to get ahead in life, so the English teaching apps went down well. Unfortunately the schools are on holiday so it wasn't possible to meet any of the children.

After a second night in Namche it was time to move on. Snow overnight quickly melted in the morning sun, but initially it did look a little bit like a Christmas card scene! Easy going along the valley side with amazing views made for a very pleasant couple of hours, before dropping down to a river crossing and the long climb up to Tangboche, the monastery and yet another bakery. This time the apple crumble was the winner. Then just 10 minutes down hill to overnight at the Rivendell Lodge in Deboche (we've been here a couple of hours now and there is still no sign of any elves.)

Chris Groves

Team in Namche Bazaar11:07 GMT, 02/Apr/14

The leadership team met up in Kathmandu 2 days prior to the arrival of the majority of the group. This gave ample time to discuss the forthcoming expedition and to prepare and check the food, equipment and arrangements already made. The team members arrived over a couple of days, unfortunately the visa queue at the airport does not get any shorter. Thankfully, by late Sunday afternoon the team was assembled at the Summit Hotel.

Monday morning was spent on briefings, briefings and meetings, including a full team outing to the Ministry where a couple of officials did their best to explain the rules and regulations with the aid of PowerPoint! The team then dispersed for shopping for last minute items, exploring Kathmandu and packing for our 0400 wake up.

As we were on the first few flights and the weather was clear we made it to Lukla before 0700 on Tuesday 1 April. A lovely leisurely walk followed under clear skies and in shorts and T-shirt weather. The trail was exceptionally quiet, with things made even better with the spring flowers and tree blossom on display. David introduced the idea that if you have sunglasses on you always have sun cream and a sun hat i.e. if 1 then ALWAYS the other 2. So the plan for next week or so is just to enjoy the trek and leave worrying about the mountain until we actually get there. Tuesday also saw the first birthday of the trip and a cake was duly baked for Angela.

So that just about brings us up to date, Wednesday (2 April) brought great weather again for the climb up to Namche Bazar, where we'll spend two nights getting used to the gain in altitude (plus drinking coffee and sampling a section of cakes and pies no doubt).

Chris Groves

2014 Everest team list14:57 GMT, 26/Mar/14

Our 2014 climbing team arrives in Kathmandu on 29 March. Our team of 33 comprises; 3 expedition leaders, 1 Sirdar, 12 climbing Sherpas, 9 climbers, 2 chefs (Gavin Melgaard is also on our climbing permit), 4 cook staff in base camp and 2 Camp 2 cooks.

Expedition leaders: David Hamilton profile
Pasang Tenzing Sherpa profile
Chris Groves profile

Sirdar: Nima Temba Sherpa

HA Sherpas:
Pem Chhiri Sherpa
Thundu Sherpa
Tsering Pemba Sherpa
Pema Tsering Sherpa
Pasang Karma Sherpa
Mingma Chhiri Sherpa
Tamting Sherpa
Wangdi Sherpa
Dawa Tamang
Dawa Tashi Sherpa
Chhimi Lheduduk Gurung
Ang Dawa Sherpa

BC staff and cook team:
Gavin Melgaard (Chef and climber)
Antony Dubber (Chef and BC Manager)
Dawa Sherpa (BC Cook)
Kanchha Man Tamang (BC Cook)
Hem Bahadur Tamang (Camp II cook)
Mitra Bahadur Tamang (Camp II cook) Gyan Bahadur Tamang
Pasang Sherpa

Climbers: Denis A
Dave B
Richard B
Selina D
George F
Ian M
Philip P
Nick T
Steve W

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Leader - David Hamilton

David Hamilton »

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