Everest 2016

Blog

Team in Namche heading home11:20 GMT, 18/May/16

Yesterday the Sherpa team did a fantastic and speedy job of dismantling and packing up our base camp and a herd of zopkiyos and yaks have transported the barrels and bags to storage. We all walked down to Pangboche and experienced rain as a change from snow. The group must look like Everest summiteers as they were congratulated by yak drivers along the way.

Today we walked to Namche and enjoyed seeing flowers and trees along the trail. We are now enjoying the Namche bakeries, though they're not a patch on Ant's baking of course. Tomorrow we go to Lukla. Thank you for the many messages of congratulations to the climbers.

Rachel and David

Safely back in BC, David's summit day report13:45 GMT, 15/May/16

All members of the expedition are now back in Base Camp after a successful climb. Here is a report from David Hamilton on how things went on summit day (13th May).

After our third rotation on th mountain we returned to BC on 5th May for a few days rest. It bacame clear that the route to the summit would be fixed on 10th/11th May and a possible weather window could occur immediately after this.

Our team of climbers were well acclimatised and our sherpa crew were confident that they could stock the South Col Camp by 11th/12th, so we made a plan to aim for a summit bid on 13th May.

Leaving BC on the 9th we took a rest day on the 10th at camp 2 and proceeded to Camp 3 on the 11th and Camp 4 on the 12th. There was far more snow on the mountain than I have ever seen before.

The Lhotse Face which is often hard, blue ice was in perfect conditions for a ski descent, and the steep scree slope between the South Col and the 'balcony' was entirely covered in deep snow.

Winds were stronger than expected on the South Col on the night of 12th/13th but we started out from our tents at 22.30. There had been a clear path in the snow visible the previous evening but the wind blown snow had covered all tracks and it was hard to find the start of the route in the dark.

Pem Chhiri led the way and after a few hours of zig zag climbing he located the partially buried rope that led upwards towards the balcony. We were the only team moving at this point and it was hard work for Pem and Nima Gyalzen to break trail through the deep snow.

After several hours of effort in the dark we reached the 'balcony' at approx 8,500m and the team each changed to their second oxygen cylinder. At this point several sherpas and climbers from another group caught up with us and we were pleased to hand over the trail breaking duties. Weather conditions had been moderately windy up until this point, but as we climbed towards the South Summit at 8,790m the winds increased.

At approximately 07.15 we reached the South Summit just as the winds rose to 30 knots plus. This was accompanied by blowing snow and visibility of less than 50m. I was strongly of the view that continuing to climb upwards in these conditions was unacceptably dangerous and aimed to cancel the ascent. I consulted with the two most experienced Sherpa guides with the team (Pem Chhiri and Nima Gyalzen) and they suggested resting in a small hollow just below the South Summit for a short while to see if conditions would improve. I was skeptical of this, as I feared that the wind strength would increase.

We waited and the sherpas were correct. We each changed to our third bottle of oxygen.

The winds dropped a little and the blowing snow gave way to clearer skies. In around 30 - 40 minutes we were able to proceed along the snow covered ridge towards the true summit. In a 'normal' season this section is mostly a rock climb, but this year it was entirely on snow. The 'Hillary Step' was unrecognisable, buried beneath deep snow. Steve and Tamding were out front and reached the summit at 08.48. The rest of the team, Nick, Pem Chhiri, Mary, Nima Gyalzen, David, Chhimi and Ang Rinji reached the summit around 09.45.

We spent 15 minutes admiring the views and taking pictures. It was a privilege to be alone on the summit of the world's highest peak on a day when no more than 30 people summited. The wind continued at around 20-25 kts during this time and we all had to be careful to avoid frozen fingers or other cold injuries.

The winds continued as we made our way back along the summit ridge and clouds started to build as we made our descent via the balcony to the South Col. By 14.30 the team were all resting and recovering in the relative 'comfort' of our tents at Camp 4. The team of climbers and sherpas all did a great job to reach the summit under such challenging conditions. A 16 hour round trip is a big effort on any mountain, let alone Everest. It was one of the hardest summit days that I have had on Everest in 9 attempts.

The team returned to Base Camp in 2 days without incident and will be heading for home in a few days time.

Only a little over 300 days until coverage of Jagged Globe Everest 2017 starts.

David Hamilton, Expedition Leader.

Safely descended to Camp 210:58 GMT, 14/May/16

David, Mary, Nick and Steve have descended from Camp 4 to Camp 2 today. They reported a sunny morning on the Lhotse Face. Tomorrow they will return to Base Camp for a couple of days rest and organisation and Ant is preparing a celebratory dinner.

Rachel Tullet

Summit success!08:10 GMT, 13/May/16

I am delighted to report that David Hamilton, Nick Talbot, Mary Scannell and Steve Waterman have all reached the summit of Everest this morning, together with Sherpas Pem Chhiri, Tamding, Nima Gyalzen, Chhimi and Ang Rinji. All the team were there by 0945 and enjoyed a beautiful view. They are all now back at Camp 4 on the South Col where they'll stay overnight, before descending to camp 2 tomorrow. Thank you for everyone for their messages of support on the Facebook page.

Rachel Tullet, BC Manager

Summit push in a few hours14:13 GMT, 12/May/16

David, Mary, Nick and Steve are now resting at Camp 4 in preparation for a summit attempt tonight. They arrived at the South Col at midday and are all going well. The Sherpa team are also there; Nima Gyalzen, Pem, Tamding, Chhimi, Ang Rinji and Mingma (who will wait at the South Col). David reported several inches of snow on the route, but the path has been trampled down well into a nice trench. Kenton and three others have been to the summit last night. The weather conditions are good and the Jagged Globe team are in the first wave of climbers.

Base Camp had a visit from our third trekking group today, led by Lakpa and Pasang. The group enjoyed lunch and a rest, before returning to Gorak Shep.

Rachel

In Camp 3, all on track for summit 13 May08:28 GMT, 11/May/16

David, Mary, Nick and Steve moved up to Camp 3 this morning and are in good spirits. Rope fixing to the summit continues today. If the rope fixing is completed, the team will move to Camp 4 tomorrow in preparation for the summit. Ian has arrived back in Kathmandu, having decided after the last rotation not to make a summit attempt. We wish him well.

Rachel

Team resting at Camp 211:39 GMT, 10/May/16

David and team had a rest day at Camp 2 today. Base Camp had a visit from Mungo Ross and his Jagged Globe trekking group (see photo). They joined us for a spectacular lunch (thanks Ant!) and a tour of Base Camp, and were able to talk to David at Camp 2 by radio. Mungo's group are going well. They have returned to Gorak Shep tonight, then onwards with their exploration of the Khumbu.

Rachel

Team on the move09:48 GMT, 09/May/16

David and team had a 1am start up to Camp 2 this morning (9 May). It was a beautiful starry night, with the Milky Way clearly visible, almost no need for headtorches. At the start of all our climbs, juniper is lit at the puja altar with each climber throwing rice for good luck and safe travels. The team is now resting at Camp 2 today and tomorrow. The final rope fixing to the summit continues.

Rachel Tullet

7 May

The jetsteam winds seem to be staying away from Mt Everest this year and this might lead to a larger than normal 'summit window'. There is still a lot of moisture in the air and this is leading to cloudy conditions at all heights on the mountain plus occasional snowfall.

The route to the South Col (Camp 4) is now open and there is a plan to fix ropes to the summit on 10th May. Our Sherpa team moved to Camp 2 today and will carry loads to the South Col over the next few days. If weather conditions on the summit continue to look favorable the climbing team will leave Base Camp in the next few days heading for Camp Two in preparation for our summit climb.

David Hamilton

Back in BC after our climb to camp 313:11 GMT, 05/May/16

The team have arrived back at Base Camp from Camp 2, following a successful trip to Camp 3. All are now resting at Base Camp. Here are some photos from our recent trip up the mountain. We will have a couple of rest days here, and are watching the weather for summit windows.

David Hamilton

Team up at Camp 215:03 GMT, 04/May/16

David, Mary, Ian, Nick and Steve are now resting at Camp 2. Morning sunshine has once again turned to afternoon snow showers. Tomorrow the team plan an early morning start to descend to Base Camp. Here are some photos:

Rachel

More rotations between Camps 2 and 314:47 GMT, 03/May/16

The team continue rotations between Camp 2 and Camp 3. The trek to Camp 2 was cold and snowy and we were all very happy to curl up in our tents that afternoon. This morning was sunny and all team members would like to report they are well and in good spirits.

Camp 2 is busy and rope fixing continues above Camp 3. Rachel made a delivery of plastic pink flowers to brighten up the camp 2 dining tent :) Thank you to our camp 2 cook Man Bahadur - last night's tasty meal was named 'spaghetti direct' - forget the soup go straight to the main event!

Best wishes to all family and friends.

Back in BC after 3 nights at Camp 211:27 GMT, 28/Apr/16

David, Mary, Ian, Nick and Steve are back in Base Camp after three nights at Camp 2. Rachel and Pem had an excursion into the icefall this morning, and met the team as they made their way down. Conditions at Camp 2 were cold and windy, and the team are now enjoying the home comforts of camp. Rest days to look forward to, before the next rotation up the mountain.

Rachel

Team reach 6,650m on the Lhotse Face15:03 GMT, 27/Apr/16

David and team have been acclimatising in the chilly and windy conditions at Camp 2. In another early morning start they made it to 6,650m at the base of the Lhotse face, before returning to Camp 2 for breakfast and sunrise. All are doing well, and tomorrow (28 April) they will return to Base Camp. We will have the hot shower ready. Richard, Gareth, Pema and Sonam had a 3am start up to Camp 1 today, and they plan to move up to Camp 2 tomorrow.

Great progress has been made in setting the fixed lines. Helicopter shuttles of gear to Camp 1 have saved many load carrying trips through the Icefall. A collaborative effort between many of the teams saw all this gear carried up to Camp 2 and route setting has begun above this. Jagged Globe climbing Sherpas have been lending their technical skills to this effort.

At Base Camp today we welcomed Jagged Globe trekkers John and Darragh with guide Rakesh, for lunch and a tour of the campsite. The photo shows Kanchhaman having some fun in the kitchen! Conditions are warm and have created some beautiful ice sculptures.

Rachel

Remembrance08:31 GMT, 25/Apr/16

At 1156 the Jagged Globe teams at Base Camp and Camp 2 (David, Mary, Steve, Ian and Nick) took part in a minute's silence along with Everest ER, and other climbing teams affected by last year's magnitude 7.8 earthquake and avalanche. Our thoughts are with the friends and family of Dan Fredinburg, and all those who were in the Jagged Globe campsite at the time of the avalanche last year. This was an opportunity to remember those who died, those who were injured and the many people who worked so hard to rescue and treat the 100 patients. We also remember the huge number of people affected across Nepal by the devastating earthquake, many of whom are still struggling to rebuild their lives. Those who died in the 2014 icefall disaster are also remembered.

David and I were in Everest Base Camp on 25 April 2015. We will never forget that day, but have found hope and strength from the incredible skill, courage and co-operation shown by so many then and now.

Wishing everyone on the mountain a peaceful climbing season.

Rachel Tullet

Team back in BC after first trip to Camp 113:08 GMT, 21/Apr/16

Four members of the climbing team went from Base Camp (5,350m) to Camp 1 (6,100m) early on the morning of Wednesday 20 April. They spent the day resting and returned to Base Camp this morning - 21 April. Their route up and down the Khumbu Icefall can be seem on the SPOT track, which records a waypoint every 10 minutes. However the signal does sometimes get distorted by the surrounding mountains and this can give false readings. So, do not get too worried if the SPOT seems to show the team stuck halfway up a steep cliff!

On another note, we had another Puja in Base Camp today for Richard, Gareth, Nikki and Damian, who arrived earlier in the week. This was attended by all the Jagged Globe climbers in camp. Richard is going to start the acclimatisation phase of his project tomorrow.

David Hamilton

Welsh invasion14:09 GMT, 18/Apr/16

Yesterday saw the influx of what I will call 'Team Wales' into Jagged Globe Base Camp, this being Richard, Damian, Nicky and Gareth. We have all met a few times on the trail on the way in and they are a great bunch of fun people' though I do fear for our cooking team as these guys can eat. Being a hospitable climbing team no-one has yet brought up the recent 6 nations rugby results with Team Wales.

David, Steve, Ian, Mary and Nick enjoyed a foray into the icefall this morning. We got up at 2 am to begin climbing in the dark until 7.30 when they turned around to go back to base camp for a 10.45 breakfast. The icefall is looking more difficult this year both in terms of technical skills needed as well as making safe tracks through terrain involving perilous crevasses and overhanging ice, some of which you can see in the pictures below.

We plan to go up to Camp 1 on 20 April to sleep there for one day and one night. We will get up at midnight for a 1am start with the aim of arriving in Camp 1 around 8-9. David, our expedition leader, is keen we avoid both sunshine and people. We are presuming this is to help us climb the mountain in comfort and peace, as opposed to anything to do with his Scottish heritage!

Nick T

Our first experience of the Icefall10:30 GMT, 18/Apr/16

Today (Saturday 16 April) the team entered the Khumbu Icefall for the first time. The icefall is located at the head of the Khumbu Glacier and is a maze of large crevasses and seracs. It is considered one of the most challenging obstacles to climbing the South Col route on Everest. A team of Sherpas called the 'Icefall Doctors' lay a number of ladders across the crevasses to enable climbers to move through this area. Each of the ladders is approximately 4 metres long and often one is sufficient to bridge a gap across a crevasse, but sometimes it is necessary to attach a number of ladders together.

The team woke at 4am and left camp at 5am as the icefall is best climbed when frozen. The aim today was to cover 30% of the route and return to camp before the intense sun of midday. It was magical walking though the huge towers of ice to the start of the route with Pem Chiri leading the way. We spent the next three hours scrambling higher and higher until we hit the first pitch of steep ice. We climbed this and then finally we got to see the first ladder.

Surprisingly the ladders (well the single ones at least) seemed to be almost enjoyable going up, but on the way down it was a struggle not to stare into the huge chasm. David's calm advice and the preparation we did with him meant that everyone came out smiling today. We gained 300 metres in altitude and made it back to camp in time for a big fry up.

Everyone is staying healthy and sends love to much missed family and friends at home.

Mary Scannell

Icefall practice12:51 GMT, 15/Apr/16

Today the team spent the morning in the Khumbu Icefall close to camp practicing ice climbing skills. Three of our Sherpa team (Pem Chiri, Sonam and Nima Galgyn) set up a ropes course and the climbing team were able to familiarise themselves with the techniques needed for ascending and descending fixed ropes plus ladder crossings.

It was a warm, sunny morning and fun was had by all. The afternoon was a little more cloudy with slight snowfall and we all spent time in base camp relaxing. Tomorrow morning if conditions are good we shall follow the first part of the route towards Camp 1 to get a feel for climbing conditions on the trail.

David Hamilton

Getting to know each other12:36 GMT, 14/Apr/16

Yesterday the team explored the base of the Khumbu Icefall, testing their crampon skills. Gear checks followed and more spectacular meals from chef Ant (steak, trifle and after eight mints anyone?). Snow set in by the evening and this morning we woke to a winter wonderland base camp. We made the most of a blue sky sunny morning with an acclimatisation hike to Pumori base camp, navigating past yaks sitting on our frozen campsite.

Our Nepali staff joined us for lunch, to a soundtrack of Bollywood music. To find a medium for all tastes, Ant made a curry described by David as '6.5' on the curry Richter scale... It was a good opportunity to learn more about our Nepali staff and their homes and families. The Nepali climbing staff have already been to Camp 2 and back (in one day) to check on caches and are pleased to report that supplies from last year are still in place and intact.

Other climbing teams are arriving,and it has been nice re-uniting with some old friends. Rachel officially joined the team today as base camp manager, after helping set up the new Everest ER clinic. David, Rachel and Ant recently worked in Antarctica together and are delighted to be re-united and looking after the Jagged Globe team. Our Sirdar, Pem Chhiri is setting up icefall training for tomorrow, in readiness for negotiating the fixed ropes and ladders in the Khumbu icefall.

Rachel Tullet

Arriving in base camp10/Apr/16

Today the team arrived at Everest Base Camp (EBC), at 5,360m, having finished our acclimatisation trek from Lukla over the past thirteen days in excellent weather.

The last overnight lodge was in Gorak Shep, which we left at 7am today in very cold, but clear conditions. We followed the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier with evidence of the 2015 earthquake in the large amounts of new rock-fall at the side of the trail.

After reaching EBC we had a quick cuppa and then went straight into our Puja, as today was deemed to be "an auspicious day". The puja is a Buddist religious ceremony which blesses the expedition. Lots of rice and tsampa flour is thrown over the participants and biscuits, fruit and beer consumed. Then down to the Mess tent for one of Chef Anthony's special meals, which featured fresh salmon and was (impossibly) better even than the last time I was here in 2014.

The Nepalese staff have done their usual amazing job in getting EBC set up on the rock-strewn Khumbu Glacier, making flat areas for all the tents. Afternoon hot showers for those of us who needed them (!), and then the process of settling in to our tents, which will be our home for the next six weeks.

After the comparative deprivations of the Lodges on our ascent here, EBC is a welcome change. Each climber has their own 3-person tent in which to spread our gear, complete with a thick sleeping mat. There is a Shower tent, Toilet tent, Communications tent, Cooking tent and the very important Mess tent, where the team spend most of their time when in EBC. The large Mess tent features comfortable seats, a small library, DVD's, 24 hour drinks and biscuits, (including an all-important Yorkshire teabag supply), and even some beautifully arranged plastic flowers. All this is set in the scenic glacial bowl with the peaks of Pumori and Nuptse at either side.

It is comparatively quiet as we are one of the first expeditions to arrive, but what is noticeable is that many of the EBC's are further up the glacier as a result of last year's avalanche.

We have a day of R+R ahead then we start preparations for the real task ahead of the move up the Icefall and into the Western Cwm.

The team are fit and healthy and ready to go!

Ian Mitchell, team member

3 Peaks and a Pass - The pre-Everest acclimatisation plan08:44 GMT, 06/Apr/16

The five members of the climbing team are spending their second day based at the 'Khangri Resort' in Chukkung. The Nepalese have a nice way with names and this is not a 'resort' like any other. I am sitting in the freezing dining room (the heater is only lit in the evening) and I have a plastic bottle full of hot water stuck down my jacket.

This morning we all climbed to the 5,550m summit of Chukung Ri and returned to the village in time for lunch. The weather was fine and we had great views of Cho Oyu, Makalu, Pumori and Ama Dablam. This was the second peak of our acclimatisation phase, as the team had hiked to point 5,083m on the Nangkartshang Ridge above Dingboche on April 4th.

Tomorrow we will have a rest day and perhaps hike on the rough path towards Island Peak BC. The following day we shall cross the 5,535m Kongma Pass on our way to the village of Lobuche. An early morning ascent of 5,550m Kala Patar on the morning of the 10th will be our final peak before we hike to Everest BC the same day.

This should complete our acclimatisation programme and ensure that we are all well prepared to live above 5,350m for the next 6 weeks.

David H

Everest Team in Dingboche03/Apr/16

Welcome to our 2016 Everest expedition despatches.

The team are having a rest day in Dingboche (4,350m) after trekking in 5 days from Lukla. The weather has generally been bright and sunny in the mornings with increasing clouds in the afternoons. There was quite heavy rain on the rest day in Namche, 3 days ago. Conditions seem quite cold with several frozen waterfalls close to the trail. This is fairly normal for the start of the spring trekking season. The trail seems quite quiet and there are not large numbers of trekkers around.

There are very few signs of earthquake damage. Some older buildings have cracks in the walls and a few are missing parts of walls. My guess is that much of the damage has been already been repaired. None of the lodges that we have used show any signs of damage.

The team are all healthy and everyone is eating and sleeping well. Most members of the team are familiar with the trail from previous trips to Nepal and it is helpful being familiar with the trekking environment and how the Nepali lodges work.

We are aware that there are a few other climbing teams in Nepal heading for Everest, but we have met very few climbers so far. They are mostly a few days behind us. Our plan is to spend a few days acclimatising near Dingboche before climbing to Chukung and spending a few days there. We plan to arrive at Everest BC on 9th or 10th April, by which time our Sherpa team will have finished building camp.

Above is a photo of the team taken in Khumjung, where we had a special puja a few days ago.

David Hamilton, Dingboche 3 April 2016

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