Trip Reports

Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes - Oct '13

Written by Leader Mungo Ross, November 2013

I have heard a lot of people say that they would not want to “do” the Everest Base Camp trek because they would expect it to be congested and over-commercialised. O.K. you may not go to the Khumbu peak season any more for the solitude, but solitude is still easy to find there – and it will always be one of the greatest treks in the world. The three peaks and three passes itinerary certainly spices up the adventure element of this trek and this season’s unseasonal sudden snowfall added another dimension to that adventure for this intrepid group. All 14 had booked onto this trip specifically because it offered more of a challenge than walking directly to base camp, and challenge they got. After three of them decided to return home early as a result of a variety of medical complications exacerbated by being at altitude – glaring illumination of rule no 1 on expeditions “don’t get sick” – the rest of us went on to enjoy the make-it-up-as-we-went-along itinerary complying unanimously with rule no 2 which is “don’t fall off”!

Since the high passes were obviously going to be impassable after our two days of deluge in Namche, it was an easy decision to reverse the direction of our trek and head directly up the Dudh Khosi, where there would be many more options open to us instead of inevitably getting stuck under the west side of the Renjo La. Although we were unable to cross either the Kongma La or the Cho La, we all got to Everest Base Camp and most made it to the summit of Chukung Ri, Kala Pattar and Gokyo Ri, with a highlight of the trip being the crossing of the Renjo La on the way back to Namche. So while the snow put a barrier up to some of our objectives, it also provided the additional challenge for route-planning and decision-making and had the Khumbu looking its very best - sparkling white under an intense blue sky. At every bend in the trail there was another stunning view, another photo-opportunity. Seeing the sunrise on Ama Dablam, the sunset on Everest, the mighty Khumbu Glacier, the huge south face of Nuptse, Taweche and Cholatse, Thamserku and Kangtega, these are images that will stay with us for a long time, impossible to fully capture with a camera (even Doug’s!).

But as much as the memories of the landscape of mountains and glaciers, so too will be those of the people we were with and their community; camping in Phortse, Namche, Gokyo and Chukung; visiting the monasteries in Thyangboche, Pangboche and Thame; tying Kata scarves to cairns or being presented them by Lamas; appreciating and acknowledging the always friendly, modest and hard work of our porters, cook team and sherpas; the warm hospitality of the lodge owners and the open acceptance of so many visitors passing through traditional villages; and not least the banter and good humour of our own wee group, met as strangers gone home as friends. This was trekking at its very best – demanding terrain, the need to pay real attention to conditions and each other, unbelievable views in perfect light, alone in the High Himalaya (O.K. there were days when progress was just a little hindered by the long lines of other trekkers, but that was only because there was only one line of footprints in the knee-deep snow – imagine progress without the footprints?): and that same deep snow prevented us from doing what there is so much scope for in the Khumbu – walking away from the main trail to get the place to yourself. It is a deservedly popular place now, that popularity is affording porters, guides and lodge owners a lucrative livelihood, but there is still plenty of room to find your own place to walk, sit, build a cairn, tie a Kata scarf, say thank you for the privilege of just being there.

Thank you Jagged Globe, Summit Trekking, Dawa, Sherpas, cooks and porters – and the entire group for your company and good humour - for the privilege of another wonderful walk in the Khumbu.

Mungo Ross, Trek Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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