Trip Reports

Kyajo Ri - October/November 2017

Written by Leader Chris Allewell, November 2017

The pitch of the engines changed, causing me to wake from my half slumber. Through sleep filled eyes I watched the side of the mountain grow larger as the plane continued its gentle dive into the side of the mountain. Anywhere other than the approach to Lukla, the thought of flying into the side of a mountain would induce a moderate state of alarm. Here it was normal. Moments later we stepped out, the fresh scents of our newly washed bodies mixing with the atmospheric scent of avgas, unwashed trek clothes and yak poo on the dusty path to Tara lodge and a welcome mug of lemon tea.

After a hearty lunch, we stepped onto the trail in earnest, heading downhill in search of the Dudh Kosi and our first night in tents at Phakding. The spinning prayer wheels opposite the camp alas had a bell attached and early walkers or mischievous yaks caused most of us to wake before the steaming cup of bed tea made its way through the flysheet and signalled the start of a fresh day on the trail.

Namche, Phortse Tenga (and its rare sighting of Nepal’s national bird the Himalayan pheasant), Dhole and Machermo all passed with crisp clear mornings and clouds obscuring the peaks in the afternoon. At Machermo we were treated to our first glimpses of Kyajo Ri which soared vertically from behind the village. Its N and E side seemingly an impenetrable array of rock bands and overhanging ice couloirs guarding the tiny cap of snow on the summit. Fortunately, we were avoiding these and sneaking around the back! Just as exciting (well at least from an ornithological perspective) was the pair of Lammergeier gliding down the valley, their huge wingspan dwarfing the excitable choughs and noisy crows as they searched for the bones of their next meal.

The 2ft stairs up to the dining room in the lodge in Gokyo were excellent training for the steep summit slopes of Kyajo Ri and the morning after our arrival there we further practised for summit day by rising early and starting up Gokyo Ri to watch the sunrise. The trail was international in flavour with small trains of Germans, French, Americans and Russians all head down slowly weaving their way up the hillside. The sunrise did not disappoint as slowly the sun seemingly rising behind a distant Makalu caressed the black summit triangle of Everest and Lhotse before slowly lighting up the closer Cho Oyu and the myriad of smaller peaks between.

Two days later after another set of spectacular views, this time from the 5400m Renjo la, we turned our backs on the 8000m giants to the East and descended towards the Bhote Kosi. A quick visit to the monastery in Thame showed that restorations following the earthquake were going well and only 48 hours after leaving Gokyo we were climbing the steep slopes guarding the entrance to the hanging valley where we would make our base camp.

A day of refreshing our fixed rope skills on the gentle valley sides had us fully prepared, but not necessarily for the heavy snow that plunged our little valley into a chilly winter wonderland. The following morning’s carry of loads up to C1 didn’t go quite as planned, but loads were eventually cached higher on the mountain and after a long day base camp was eventually regained. The following day the sun graced our little valley and sleeping bags, duvet jackets, socks and boots jostled for space amongst the solar panels soaking up the rays. In the afternoon, bags were packed, choices made and remade as we aimed for the lightest weight sacks to head up for our summit bid.

The steep gully from base camp was despatched in under two hours as the sun slowly melted the ice on the hanging pillars of the gully walls, a steady tinkling of music to replace the clanging Yak bells that had accompanied us for so long. From the ice blue waters of the glacial lake in the second hanging valley the path now gently contoured before rising abruptly in a moraine ladder where the rungs kept moving and the sides were non too firm. C1 perched atop a small bluff afforded excellent views towards the snowy pinnacle of Kyajo ri and under a star filled sky the moon shone brightly, illuminating the upper slopes where we hoped to be in only 36 hours’ time.

The following morning, we breakfasted in the sun and packing bags again headed slowly across the glacier and up to C2 on a glacial col. On arrival, we quickly slid into the warmth of our down bags and spent the time drinking, eating and resting in preparation for the summit bid. Alarms squawked and stoves slowly hissed into life and by 0540 we were underway, wrapped up against the cold in thick down jackets. The first rays of the morning sun were touching the tents as we emerged on the fixed ropes above the rock band, rewarding a backward glance with stunning vistas. Slowly and inexorably we inched up the mountain, our safety assured by the fixed ropes that the amazing Sherpas Tenzing and Pema had popped up to fix the previous day!

The team of Chris, Iain, Derek, Liam, Huw and Miles all stood on top of Kyajo ri that morning feasting their eyes on what must be one of the best summit views in the area. With Derek and Liam even managing the energy to record a piece to camera for posterity. Multiple abseils later we were back at C2 and only three days later back at Lukla. The entire expedition from Yak driver to Sirdar together with the co-opted lodge owners then spent a rather wild night gyrating to alternate strains of Hindi music, Sherpa singing and a memorable air guitar solo. And as yet another bottle of rum entered the kettle we toasted our success.

None of the above would have been possible without the whole team of Pemachhiring Sherpa our Sirdar, Tenzing and Pema our HA Sherpas, Tenzing our chef and his multiple helpers and Dawa and Raju who guided the yaks so we didn’t have to carry very much (most of the time). Thanks also to the Jagged Globe team beavering away in Sheffield to make everything happen so smoothly. Lastly a massive thankyou to Chris, Iain, Derek, Liam, Huw and Miles who made a fantastic team and I hope our paths cross again in the hills.

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