Trip Reports

Ojos del Salado - 22 Dec to 9 Jan '19

Written by Leader Chris Groves, January 2019

Ed said “Aconcagua sorted, how about Ojos?”. I always prefer to go somewhere new and with news that it was going to be a small team too Christmas was easily pushed into 2nd place. After assembling in Santiago an early start was required for the flight North to the Atacama airport at Copiapó. Rodrigo & Bruno delivered us to a local cafe for breakfast while they when to load up the pickups.

Gaining height deceptively quickly it was a warm 3hr drive to a roadside campsite then up over a 4000m pass to Laguna Santa Rosa and what appeared to be a brand new lodge for a huge Christmas Day BBQ looking out at flamingos. The traditional Boxing Day walk was an ascent of Maricunga (4885m). The weather was perfect although the routine of strong afternoons wind after a calm morning started to establish itself as did the pattern of our younger Everest summiteers leading the way while the rest of the team took a more leisurely approach photographing the high desert landscape.

10 people and all the kit is a tight squeeze into 2 pickups so packing up, driving then setting up camp at Laguna Verde took most of a day but at least we got our first view of Ojos on the way. Even from 20km away it was huge but pretty much clear of snow. With the very salty water of a large lake and so much sand it felt like we were camping by the sea.

With only really one day’s walking so far the team were keen to stretch their legs so opted for the a full circumnavigation of the lake. At the easterly end we got a great view of the summit route. We also came across a couple of petrified Guanacos. Things got tougher as a headwind developed on the far side of the lake then route finding became a challenge as we tried to get round the top of the lake. Mark found knee deep quicksand so a quick retreat was made then a wide sweep on higher ground was required. Several inlets frustratingly appeared before we completed the 22km back to camp. While we’d be out Bruno had been back to town to resupply so it seemed only reasonable to enjoy a glass of wine with dinner.

Winter snows had yet to fully melt so our next camp was a little low but a great spot with running water and a huge wall of Penitentes. The 3am start wasn’t too uncomfortable and the temperature was only about zero for our attempt on Cerro Vicuña (6067m). Having previously failed to spot a trail the only option in the dark was to try to not lose any height. The scree was never ending and despite the sun coming up we remained in the shadows. The term a ‘huge pile of choss’ has never been more apt. Cresting the false summit brought sunshine and another steep lose slope before the summit was gained. Completing the summit log in the strong wind proved challenging before dropping down slightly to find shelter and enjoy the views.

On descending to below the false summit Jess and the rest of the team we’re looking strong still on their way up. So while Mark and Edita descended I returned to the top to do it all again. The descent back to camp although slightly easier than going up is probably best forgotten. Everyone slept very well that night.

The drive to Atacama basecamp (5200m) proved challenging. We managed to get one of the trucks stuck in the sand, had to retie a load and got bounced around and shaken before reaching our destination. With a couple of groups already in residence the team had to work hard to locate enough rocks for the tents before a very late lunch. News from around camp was that folk had summitted without the need for axes or crampons.

Temporarily we reverted to GMT for New Year. Sandy provided an excellent drop of malt whiskey and ensured Hogmanay was observed traditionally before Mark led probably the highest ever Bohemian Rhapsody karaoke. A leisurely start and very steady pace seemed appropriate for a New Year stroll up to high camp, Tejos (5830m). This also confirmed the news that it was possible to drive up, so no additional load carrying would be needed. Time for a rest day and to make a plan…

Waking in the wee hours wasn't unusual for a summit day but it wasn’t cold and heading into the dome to force down some breakfast revealed amongst several surprises avocado and tomato on toast! The A team were off just after 0200 while the B team and I waited for the taxi to return, an opportunity for more breakfast.

Unusually we set off in a strong breeze and a snow flurry. With a couple of sets of head torches ahead I tried to maintain a steady pace weaving between boulders before picking up the zigzags that would be followed for the next 4hrs. Overnight snow accumulations meant the trail was easily identified but made the going harder than necessary. The biting wind required extra layers and the ever increasing altitude resulted in a reduced pace.

After 5hrs Mark, Edita and I reached the caldera. Despite being in full sunshine & wearing pretty much everything we were shivering so time for the group shelter and some goodies. After what seemed no time but was probably a good hour Jess, Sandy and Bruno arrived. Leaving them to warm up and rest the advanced party took the rising traverse to the lose rocky / snowy gully leading to the final climb up to the summit. Although imitating the climb only really involved a bridging move followed by an airy step on an exposed traverse protected by a couple of not so new fixed ropes. After just under 8hrs, Edita led Mark on to the summit and we were shortly joined by Bruno. Signing the log was much easier now the wind had dropped.

After taking care down the climbs I noticed Jess on her way up. So as with Vicuña I did it all again. Although within touching distance of the top Sandy had had enough and we collected him on our way down only after passing guide Paula (& assistant Lautaro) with Peter steadily heading up to be the last on top for the day. All safely back in base camp by 1830, it was a huge day and there was little energy for celebration.

Forced out of the tents by the heat of the sun the team breakfasted alfresco while camp was dismantled. An arduous afternoon squashed in a pickup followed but the reward was the Pacific Ocean, a very late dinner and a developing taste for Pisco Sours. Our spare day was spent exploring, attempting to converse with locals in Bahia Inglesa and not getting sunburnt but what’s not to like a about blue sky and 30degs in January?

Maybe there’ll be a few tweaks to the itinerary and there’s is a lot of travelling when compared to days trekking but a trip into the Atacama region is quite a different adventure. You maybe able to drive to over 5800m but a 6000m peak and another approaching 7000m in less than a fortnight from leaving home requires a serious effort.

A huge ‘gracias’ to our guide Paula and her team of Bruno, Lautaro, Danilo & Rodrigo for all their hard work and sharing their Christmas and New Year with us. Thanks and congratulations to pioneers Edita, Mark, Jessica, Sandy and Peter. The first Ojos trip was an extremely enjoyable success.

Chris Groves

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