Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 12 Dec '10 to 5 Jan '11

Written by Leader David Haygarth, February 2011

Congratulations to the members of the first Jagged Globe Aconcagua expedition for this season. Unfortunately we didn't get to the summit on this occasion, but this was still a very enjoyable trip with a great bunch of people.

The were together for the first time in Mendoza. The good food, comfortable hotel and lively city made a great place to get to know one another. After kit checks, and a little more relaxation around the pool (it was 30 degrees air temperature down here!), the journey began, and after a night in a remote hotel, we were walking in to Confluencia: our first camp. We spent two nights here in this well organised camp, spending pleasant day acclimatising by walking to Plaza Francia - 4000 metres, and seeing stunning views of the imposing south-face of Aconcagua.

Next was the long haul through the rest of the Hornones Valley and up to the main base camp: Plaza de Mulas. It's a large camp, but again remarkably well organised. We all appreciated the good food and service there.

After a rest day, with showers and more great food our ascent of our first summit: Bonnetti Peak, went perfectly, with all our team members: Derek, Chris, Susanne, Martin, Andew, Tim, Will and Gordon standing happily on the top in perfect sunshine with no wind. Wind is a common problem round here so we felt very fortunate to have spent a little time resting in the sun on this dramatic summit.

Another rest day, and then we began to carry some supplies up to both Canada Camp (Camp 1: 5100m) and the following day up to Nido de Condores (Camp 2: 5500). A tough physical job. We also had help from porters to do that - thanks guys!

Then down for more showers and pizzas at Plaza de Mulas, and some Christmas celebrations. Thanks to Gordo - one of our local guides, who spent Christmas morning up at Canada Camp making sure our tents would still be there for us.

The weather had been fantastic throughout this trip so far, and we were feeling very optimistic about success on the summit in a few days. Next we went back to the familiar Canada Camp, and spent an evening taking photographs of the crimson sunset in this amazing location. The next day was also familiar: back up to Nido de Condores, where we spent the following day resting and taking in some of the stunning scenery around us. This day would have been a great summit day, but it's just too soon for us - we need plenty of time to get our bodies acclimatised.

Then the snow arrived - lots of it. We have three possible days we can use for summiting, and this change in the weather meant we had to do some careful decision making But despite there being two days of heavy snow, we had a good day forecasted on the 31st of January: our last possible summit day. It made sense to wait at this camp and use that good day. Fortunately we had the fantastic big dome tent - new for this season - to eat, drink and play world championship rummy - the USA were quite good!

The move up to Berlin Camp - our highest camp - was tough, and the deep snow gave us an idea of what was to come higher on the mountain. The push to the top began early the next day. This is definitely a very tough mountain indeed, and we heard stories of successful Everest summiters who have had to turn back on this giant, cold mountain; so congratulations must go to all of my team members for pushing themselves high. The very fit guys: Tim and Will got halfway up the notorious steeper section known as the Caneletta - about 6700m, but by then time was against us and we descended, content that we'd tried hard given the conditions.

Next was the long but pleasant walk back out to Horcones, and then on to the wonderful food and wine of Mendoza. Our last meal together had a great team spirit, showing that many new friendships had been made on this fantastic journey.

Many thanks for Daniel for arranging many of the logistics; to Lucas and his team of guides and porters; and to the staff at the two excellent base camps. And of course congratulations to all the team for their achievements on this trip.

David Haygarth
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