Trip Reports

Dhaulagiri Circuit & Dhampus Peak 12 Oct - 1 Nov '13

On the summit of Dhamphus Peak, Dhaulagiri Circuit

Written by Leader Chris Groves, November 2013

I bumped into Andy at Euston so we travelled together to Heathrow where there were already lots of Jagged Globe bags to help identify other team members. Although a very busy flight we had no problems with our journey to Delhi, onward to Kathmandu and transfer to the Summit Hotel (however, the visa queue was rather tedious allowing organized Kevin who already had his visa to be bag monitor while the rest of waited in line upstairs). Once at the hotel we met up with Brad (Australia) & Debbie making our team complete.

Late the following morning after lots of questions and kit checking we left for the domestic airport. But, due to poor weather there were no flights so a bus was quickly arranged to get us to Pokhara. Another long day on interesting "roads" saw us at Darbang, currently the end of the trail for vehicles and our starting point for the trek. Our crew, having gone ahead, had already set up camp and were busy preparing dinner. Bed tea, washing water, breakfast and our departure ran like clockwork - a great start as we set off up the valley. Everyone quickly settled into the routine of the trekking day.

5 Days spectacular trekking up the valley saw lots of villages and agriculture lower down give way to dense forest with few places to stop meaning a few long days. Stunning trails, much improved in recent years had us both next to the river and high above with steep drops to the water below. This is not a popular route, camping all the way with no opportunity to buy chocolate! With many porters carrying everything we'd need it did feel like an expedition to a remote place. We didn't really get rained on but skies were cloudy only offering glimpses of high snowy peaks above. After walking in the narrow valley we crossed a huge landslide, left the trees behind to reach Italian BC 3600m directly below the gigantic west face of Dhaulagiri 1 with views of the other Dhaulagiri's on the far side of the valley. The shorts were packed away and the duvet jacket came out for the cooler evenings.

After 2 nights to adjust to the altitude we progressed further up the valley, though a very narrow section threatened by stone fall meaning we needed to don helmets before reaching the rock covered Chhoribardan glacier and our first camp on ice. A more leisurely day followed up the glacier to Dhaulagiri BC centered in stunning, enormous scenery with a few avalanches and rock falls observed for added interest. WOW what a place to spend a couple of days, Dhaulagiri towering above us and Tukuche Peak (6920m) just ahead BC is a truly spectacular location, you are so close up to such huge mountains, with perfect weather, memory cards were getting full from all the photos.

With a long day ahead over French Col (5400m) we had a cold early start setting off in duvet jackets but down to thermals as the sun caught up with us. Once high on a moraine ridge stopping to turn round the bulk of Dhaulagiri appeared to grow as we moved away and our perspective changed. With a short final steep sting in the tail we reached the col to see a whole new view, cue big grins on everyone's faces. Even more photos, drinking in the 360o views but not hanging around too long in the icy winds we descended into the Hidden Valley, a wide featureless, barren and windy place. For the few hours walk to camp Dhampus Peak ahead, covered in snow looked much better (and challenging) than the photos I'd seen. Our camp was tucked in behind a ridge but there was little shelter from the wind, we'd left the ice behind but camping was still tough.

During the night a porter fell ill, complaining of chest pains, he was put on oxygen. In the morning there was no change and being incapable of getting himself off the hill a helicopter evacuation was arranged via satellite phone. (He was kept in hospital overnight then discharged the following day). Meanwhile, others prepared and departed 0545 to climb the peak. With fresh snow the going was tough. Wisely Charles & Alexis opted out of the climb the evening before. Mandy was up for the challenge but turned back after an hour. 2 Hours up to the pass (twice as long as expected) and sunshine, upwards progress was extremely tiring as the snow didn't improve.

Andy, not feeling great descended to the pass to wait for the others who'd be along soon. The weather was fantastic, little wind, not too cold with clear skies however, progress was slow. But we gained the ridge, scaled a few steep sections and overcame more than one false summit to eventually after 7 hours get to the top. Views of the Annapurnas, Dhaulagiris and the Mustang valley were our reward. Descent to camp through even deeper softer snow took over 3 hours - quite a day. Nobody really noticed the uncomfortable camp on a foot of fresh snow. Downhill from here! Engulfed in cloud the following morning we still had a couple of hours traversing the mountain including quite a bit Nepali flat (up & down) before a long (2500m) steep descent to the valley floor and the village of Marpha - lots of apples but also beer & chocolate.

Our adventure wasn't over yet though, after a relaxing spare day in Marpha, a short walk to Jomsom we thought we'd fly out. But, after great weather earlier Pokhara was fog bound. 4WDs were hired for the 10£ hr trip, and then unable to get a flight the following day it was another bus ride back to Kathmandu. It would have been nice to fly but the extra travel despite being tedious finished off our spectacular adventure. Things were topped off with a meat feast at the Everest Steakhouse. Then with a final 0600 start the majority of the team left on the early morning flight.

Everyone made it over the French Col

Dhampus Peak summiteers; Kevin, Nick, John, Brad, Steve, Dean, Nev, Debbie together with myself, Pemchhiri, Pasang 1 and Rakis.

This was an outstanding trip made possible by our Sirdar Penchhiri and his highly experienced team, thanks Pem.

Well done to all, it was a complete pleasure. I've been higher and further but I reckon that this, my 10th trip to Nepal has been the best (so far!)

Leader: Chris Groves

Kathmandu 01 Nov 2013

« Previous report | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.