Trip Reports

Ama Dablam, November 2013

Written by Leader John Armstrong, December 2013

It's often said that a successful trip is about having the right people in the right place at the right time with the right weather. This was certainly what happened for the Jagged Globe Ama Dablam 2013 expedition. Many trips this autumn endured unprecedented amounts of snow and very challenging conditions. During our approach trek we met disappointed and frustrated teams, even as we arrived in BC on 10 November Ama Dablam was yet to be summited this season. However, the group remained positive and got on with their acclimatisation programme, firstly up to C1 and then up the Yellow Tower to Camp 2 in what could only be described as perfect weather ñ clear skies and no wind. Adrian Ballinger's Sherpas completed fixing the ropes above C2 and reached the summit on 15 November.

Our group was now well-prepared and rested, all that remained was to form the two teams that would attempt the summit from Camp 2 several days apart. This season, conditions on the Mushroom Ridge were such that it was impossible to carry loads along it and establish Camp 3, which is normally situated at around 6,250m.

Mike, Andy, Wini, Boris and Nick elected to go in the first group but unfortunately Nick awoke in C1 with such a sore throat he couldnít speak and decided to return to BC. The remainder continued to C2 and departed there at 0330hrs on 20 November, reaching the summit by 1030hrs in cold but clear conditions.

The second team comprising Sara, Adam, Stuart and John OíC set off to C1 on 20 November. However, on 22 November, John was the sole summiteer from this group with Stuart electing to return from 6,300m, both having had to stop there for over an hour due to strong winds. All returned to BC later that day, which was a sterling effort.

The entire team enjoyed a day in BC before packing up and leaving on Sun 24 November, giving us a relaxed three days for the trek back to Lukla and flight to Kathmandu. Even as the flight took off the mountains were still crystal clear confirming that, particularly this year, the best conditions are often to be found later in the season.

Finally, as leader, I must thank the group for being such good company and maintaining a positive approach throughout. However, I must also pay tribute to our Sherpa team comprising Pem Chiri, Pasang, Thundu, Chhiring and Pema Chirring, without whom it is unlikely we would have had the success we did. Between them, there was in excess of thirty Everest summits and I can categorically say you couldnít wish for better support.

John Armstrong
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