Trip Reports

Dhaulagiri Circuit - 18 Oct to 7 Nov '15

Written by Leader Tony Halliwell, November 2015

It was a strong, jolly and very satisfied team that returned last weekend from the Circuit of Dhaulagiri trek in the Mustang region of Nepal. We had an Everest summiteer, Ama Dablam-ers, Mera Peakers, Cotopaxi-ers, Kilimanjaro-ers, Stok-Kangri-ers and New Zealand and European alpers.

Undeterred by being pinned down by 32 hours of snowfall at Chhonbarden Glacier camp, we made it over French Col (in very deep snow) and round the circuit. We succeeded in reaching a high point of 5,800m on Damphus Peak (6,060m), our Sherpas working almost to the point of exhaustion for us, and the top was well within our capabilities, but it had taken much longer than usual to reach this point and the summit was just not attainable with a safe descent in daylight hours. It was Pemís 10th time of being Sirdar on this circuit and he said that heíd never seen such challenging, but beautiful, conditions.

This trek is described as having ìan expedition feelî and thatís certainly accurate. We saw hardly any other people on the route and completed it in virtually splendid isolation. The feeling is truly remote and the resolve of the whole team was certainly tested in overcoming the unseasonal snowfall, so there was justified satisfaction all round in accomplishing what we did. We were supported by a tight-knit and effective team of Sherpas, cooks and porters, directed superbly by Pemchiri (Pem) Sherpa.

It takes a while to get to the start of the circuit, but boy is it worth it, as it is a truly remarkable trek. With various members coming in from different parts of the world we didnít really get together until at the Summit Hotel and werenít all together until we got to Pokhara and met Jerry who had travelled out a couple of days earlier. Road transport to Beni and Darbang follows and then the trek begins right down in the lowlands.

There were 5 days of lowland trekking before getting into the mountainous environment around Italian base camp, though with magnificent views of Dhaulagiri on the way and stunning Magyar villages to travel through. As it was Dassain we were also treated to (and participated in) the dancing celebrations in the village of Sibang. All of this is part of the challenge; you have to pack for jungle, temperate, mid-mountain and then high mountain environments. This is a journey through them all.

Above Italian Base Camp is where we encountered extended snowfall and itís very satisfying to note how our united group coped with it all and remained patient and determined to deal with whatever was thrown at them and what sometimes turned into much longer days than might usually be expected ñ but afterwards, when the skies cleared and turned blue, we were treated to even-more- stunning-than-usual, snow-covered mountain vistas.

After the descent from Damphus Col our spare day was spent around Marpha, with the chance to sample some of the culture and visit the monastery; a change of tempo which seemed to be just what the doctor order.

Many thanks to team members Alan, Alex, Jerry, Joanna, Kris, the Johns, Neil, Rita, Russell, Sally, Tim, Wendy and Yves ñ and also to co-leader Mara, to Pem and to his team. Kathmandhu was quieter than usual. There seemed to be fewer visitors and yet this was a great time to be there. Nepal needs tourist dollars and wants to welcome you all to the country just as soon as you decide to come. Hope itís soon. « Previous report | Next report »

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