Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 2 to 24 January '16

Team 4 on Bonete Peak
Trip Report

Written by Leader Mara Larson, February 2016

The sunís back out after a thunderous night and the closing of the Trans-Andes highway running between Chile and Argentina, for a day or two. Finally the streets have cooled down here in Mendoza so that a midday siesta is no longer essential.

Ben and Kev have organized a last night of Parilla, which is Argentine barbecue taking in nearly all cuts of beef. And Sue, Lizzie, Paul, Arrian, and Andy are onward home, halfway across the Atlantic now back to family, work, proper beds, and daily life without a thin covering of dust. Tom is already comfortably settled in back in his desert oasis.

Our trip started the 2nd of January which meant that indulging over the Christmas and New Yearís holidays took on the excuse of carbo-loading for the highest peak outside of Asia. At 6962m, but far south of the equator, Aconcagua may as well be classified in the category of 7000m giants, and the excess holiday calories turned out to be more than necessary.

But back to the beginning, Team Jagged Globe first met in Buenos Aires International airport, six of us anyway. And after a slightly too-eventful negotiation at gaining seats aboard a Mendoza flight, we successfully acquired all necessary boarding passes, collected Tom at the gate, and arrived in Mendoza to meet our eighth and final member Lizzie who had arrived a couple days early, scouting the city in advance for all of us.

This was convenient because it was a rapid fire rush through Mendoza over the next 36 hour. A late-night dinner of Malbec and mostly steaks our first night before an early morning pack, shop, speedy Argentine lunch (read ñ 2ish hours menu to bill), and a jump aboard our transport up the Trans-Andes mountain highway. Anibalís music building anticipation and chill along the way.

Our first night out of the city was in the quiet ski village of Penitentes. Here, a final gear sort, packing of the food, and another magical meal and the following morning we were boots on the ground at the head of Aconcagua National Park. We took the western Horcones valley route, which the guide books indicated would be lacking in all things macro fauna, so naturally within the first 15 minutes of our walk-in condors circled over head, making the most of the thermals on a relatively mild morning. By late afternoon weíd arrived at our first acclimatization camp of Confluencia where we spend three days and nights acclimating to 3000m, climbing high to views of the spectacular south face of Aconcagua, and as became a theme, feasting on elaborate meals.

Our local guides, Lucas and Nani settled in at this stage. Lucas is on year 18 on the peak, Nani recently joined the guide ranks after years as a porter on the mountain. Both together are tough as nails, and as a bit of a big brother ñ little brother unit they were also particularly adept at introducing Malbec to the uninitiated. Our daily routine, Argentine style, was to wake and head for breakfast only as the sunlight hit our tents. A great holiday-style approach, foiled only by early morning rantings from ëThe Green,í which is to say Andy hooting and hollering over the fantastic sunrise. Think the famed double-rainbow internet guy. Similar story. Only earlier in the morning.

We acclimatized hiking up near the base camp of Aconcaguaís spectacular south face. Avalanches tore down two prominent gullies, a phenomenal sight and a first for Paul and Andy both. The local boys disappeared towards high angle bouldering and we enjoyed lunch both in the wind and out, testing out the comforts of our group shelter.

It was also at this elevation that the infamous card games came out. Theyíd become a central theme of the trip, focusing not so much on a winner but a loser, or at very least a villain flushed out in each hand. We have Arrian to thank for the introduction. And Kev & Ben for unholy methods of deception throughout.

The final marathon day into base camp saw us rounding the Horcones valley north and finally east over a steady and nearly continuous eight-hour trek in gusting wind and the occasional snow flurry. Not exactly guidebook description, as itís meant to typically be a baking oven of exposed heat over miles and miles. But our day in the cold proved good preparation and practice on short rests, efficient refueling, and continual steady marching as would be the theme getting us all the way up to the top. Today, Sue, our secret weapon of the trip, launched into action, enjoying the freedom of the wide valley and pushing her lungs to a serious bit of effort into camp, taking no prisoners with those slipstreaming alongside her!

We arrived to base camp welcomed by firm handshakes from our mafia don base camp boss, Pablo. From the friendly local staff to a too-comfortable domed dining tent full of drinks and nibbles to another four star dinner now above 4000 meters we were settling in well to the spoils of good Argentine living. Rest, acclimatizing, and load-carrying in anticipation of the eventual five-day summit push was the next round for us.

We acclimatized summiting 5000m Bonete Peak, just west of Aconcagua on a bright and sunny day and let loose scree skiing on the way down. A new sport equally welcomed and deplored by the group. Ben, Sue, Arrian, and Paul were complete converts. Our military contingent of Lizzie and Kev saw no strategic benefit. Andy? Andy was certainly happy within.

We also said our first goodbyes of the trip here. Tomís insomnia had got the best of him and he made the appropriate call of heading back for home, causing a small ripple of envy through the team watching his heli circle round camp and whip down the valley in a mind-spinning 7 minutes. A scenic sunset flight if ever there was one. We wish we couldíve had him with us not only higher on the mountain, but not least for the Mendoza wine-tasting at the end. We suspect heíll be back with the family for that side soon enough.

From here the weather forecasts dictated our next moves. El Nino, as we all know, wrecked havoc on the mountain this season. The forecast showed us lacking anything like a decent weather window. But we chose to keep putting in the time, building up our acclimatization, and getting into position should a window of opportunity appear. Our patience eventually gave us a glimmer of hope. We saw wind speeds dropping for what looked like a 24-hour period in a weekís time. This was ahead of schedule but all we seemed to have available. It was a shot at least. So, regrouping quickly, we moved our trip up in order to try and catch it.

What this meant in practical terms was to change around our last acclimatization days, ditch a final carry day, and pack ourselves heavy to get everything into position on the mountain in time. With summit gear packed, we made our first and only gear drop on the mountain up at camp one the following day. The common description of the last, steep hours climb was best summarized by Kev, ìIím pretty sure my lungs were about to explode from my chest,î he explained casually. The pain was balanced back out by a brilliant siesta crashed out in the sun with spectacular views across the Andes. Descent was yet another scree ski before showers, shaves, and more card playing back at base camp.

After a dayís rest and final packing, our next push up the mountain was towards the summit, the weather still not playing ball. But this team was properly unmoved. Weíd been spoiled with views, spoiled with building strong legs and lungs, spoiled with amazing cooking, and decent coffee, and so with an open mind and plenty of hope, we headed up with a forecast of difficult high winds but the hope that possibly weíd sneak in between systems.

This time camp one welcomed us more gently. We managed an al fresco dinner of pork and potatoes watching the sunset. Lucas DJíing tonight. To camp two and beyond it was now a climb into the unknown. We climbed on confidence and the strength of our days off the mountain building power. Paulís confidence seemed to grow now that the final goal was near, Lizzie continued providing the team a steady and constant rhythm sheíd hold all the way above 6000 meters, and Kev and Andy continued the constant stream of banter through the steepest angles of the day, as usual. Arrian, Sue, and Ben were proving to be the strong, silent types weíd all expected.

Camp two and our rest day here saw us in classic high altitude universe ñ slow motion activity that consisted of hours spent repacking loads, trading out powdered drinks flavors for the 6+ liters of water we drowned in daily, and squashing in like sardines to our kitchen/dining/socializing tent for meals and general chatter.

Here we caught up with a Red Bull team filming one of the worldís leading ultra distance runners. Brazilian Fernanda Marcel and her team were attempting a new womenís record up and down Aconcagua. Sheíd brought along as her guide, Tendi Sherpa, a close friend of mine! A small and happy reunion for all of us, and excitement on our second day at camp two cheering them on as they descended the Gran Acarreo, looking like absolute specs of dust on such a massive face.

According to the latest forecasts, the weather gods were rewarding our patience. The wind speeds look to be dropping from initial predictions and our thoughts began to shift from a climb up to Camp 3 just to ìtake a look aroundî to the prospect of an actual summit. We played it cool, continued as weíd been on rest, hydration, and more hydration, and headed up for Camp three with renewed focus.

Nani and our porter Cabesa surprised us by charging ahead and setting up all the tents for us that morning at camp 3 so after sorting out stocks of snack food for the following day, melting ever more water, and drying out boots and organizing gear, it was an afternoon and early evening of electric rest and anticipation. And also some amazing sunset views from another well positioned loo. Nerves started to build as we saw climbers returning from attempts the previous night. Not many, but the straggling few dehydrated, confused, one required medical attention down at camp two, the whole scene was a sobering reminder of the seriousness of what was above. Even here, our oxygen saturation would be clinically devastating were we back down at sea level, unacclimatized to the thin air.

Summit morning we aimed to be away by 5 am. The restless team had headlamps lighting up tents just after three. Packing, a quick breakfast, bars stashed in pockets, buffs up, and just as the 5 oíclock alarms went, we were away.

In the pitch black climbing at steady grade, time seemed to stretch out. We managed by counting water stops rather than endless minutes, with the aim of eight stops up, four down, and weíd be home free. This prepared us well in breaking up the stages of pain and suffering. We snaked up the mountainside in darkness more or less in line-step. Lucas setting a steady pace.

At just over 6200m Lizzieís feet wouldnít return to sensation from the numb cold anymore and she made the wise but tough decision to turn back. Difficult for the team as she was always our lightening rod of energy and her steady pace kept us honest all the way up the mountain thus far. However, not exactly a minor feat getting here, she had already made it above the summit height of Denali. A personal elevation record for her, and also a record achievement of altitude without AMS for the very first time ever.

After what felt like ages, night became dawn and we rested finally at the hut at Independencia. Our quiet, independent climb was suddenly met by crowds merging from the eastern route on the mountain. Most everyone stretched out among the rocks and boulders aiming for a small slice of recovery. Here we changed in crampons and generally gave thanks that weíd made it to daylight, while stuffing our faces with frozen bars and gummy chews. Now at an elevation over 6500 meters the focus was maintaining rhythm and pushing through this seasonís snowy traverse en route to the climb up the Canaleta.

Kev and Sue seemed to gain strength with day breaking. Unfortunately Benís breathing issues of the last day returned. He fought through it as far as he could, and pushed all the way to the finger of the traverse before making the wise call to descend. Again, a tough one for the team after such a solid effort together. But, at this elevation, the mountain makes the call, and the margin for error just too slim.

From here, Kev, Arrian, Sue, Paul, Andy, Lucas, and Nani pushed on to the next great ascent of the day up the Canaleta. All the snow of this El Nino season was both an advantage and disadvantage. Crampons bit easily but the sunís radiation up here so high in the sky, made the going somewhat like climbing up a solar oven, while sucking in only 50 percent the usual oxygen. The climb and the final traverse to the summit made for emotional times for the team. A bonding mixture of persevering silence, a bit of old-fashioned ënortherní encouragement, and the usual tranquillo calm of Lucas keeping the group focused through the final hours up. The team spread out a bit that last hour but the summit rewarded with clear skies and low winds. The team managed a full hour on the summit plateau, taking in the views across the Andes chain and awaiting the last few teammates to stand on the highest point of the Americas together.

A massive team effort and a day etched in memory for all.

Back down at camp three the full team regrouped, exhausted but full of stories between hacking coughs and fits of laughter. We survived a night of symphonic scorched-throat hacking and complete exhaustion, and out the door early made the long descent back down to base camp the following day. Leaving camp two was both relief at the effort done, and temporary melancholy at how brief our time was on this stunning mountain. Our sunsets here nearly indescribable.

But, it was time to celebrate. Finally!! We got back to camp just in time to welcome the next Jagged Globe team of Alex, Uli & co and brief them on the fun up ahead. Encouragement and war stories shared and then it was beers and shooting off in all directions for showers, packing, and the next wave of excitement in planning our ìholiday-holidayî back in Mendoza.

Bidding farewell to the mountain here our last night, the Malbec flowed, and not just in the guideís glasses! Another of Pabloís outstanding meals, Naniís infectious laughter throughout the kitchen and beyond, and the team a healthy mixture of exhausted euphoria. We finished the evening off in proper style ñ Saboteur, of course.

Then the pile of nine snorers crashed out like wheel spokes in the team dome. Pablo had taken pity on us this final night and given us the dome so weíd not have to face anymore tent pitching and collapsing. A glorious summit reward.

Iíll leave off the description of our spare end of trip days in Mendoza of course, except to say that the wine tours organized by Ben, Kev, and Lizzie topped an already outstanding trip. And yet not a single one missed their early flights back home. Well done team.

A massive congratulations to all the team for a successful and incredibly memorable trip. And to our local guides, Nani and Lucas as well as Fernando, Pablo, and the local staff for all the local Argentinian flavor.

And a final thanks to all the team, as well as Simon and Tom back at the home office, for allowing this guide a quick day off work to try and make a single day speed climb herself. Aconcagua sure holds a wealth of adventures!

Mara Larson « | »

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