Trip Reports

Kilimanjaro - Umbwe Route, September '19

Written by Leader Rob Wymer, October 2019

I can’t remember ever having a ‘bad’ group to lead, but sometimes a group just comes together perfectly: a symbiotic mix of mutual support, respect, interaction, fun and laughter. Thus it was with the recent Kilimanjaro Umbwe Route group I had the pleasure to travel to Tanzania with.

Travelling from various regional hubs, we met at Amsterdam airport and then flew directly to Kilimanjaro, and before we knew it we had checked into our hotel, I’d briefed for the next day and we were repacking for our first trekking day. This brilliant itinerary has the best of everything - a swift quiet route up Kili, made possible by an acclimatisation trek on the nearby - and excellent - Mt Meru, and it was this mountain we set our sights on to begin with. Strangely overlooked, Meru not only packs a punch in its own right, but is also set in the Arusha National Park so is seemingly teeming with safari animals! As we drove in through the Park gate, we very quickly saw zebras, buffaloes and warthogs, and once we’d set out on foot we got very close to more of the same plus monkeys, antelopes, water buck, baboons and giraffes; we were also kind of glad we had our ranger with us too! Two lovely days walking saw us at the Saddle Huts at 3566m for the night, with an extra tootle up to Little Meru at 3820m. Pete took it even further with a trip to the true summit, whilst the rest of the team chose to soak up the acclimatisation and keep their powder dry for the main event. Our descent from Meru gave us more wildlife viewing opportunities and we also took in a magnificent, and huge, waterfall on the way back as well. Travelling back to our hotel in Moshi for the night, we all agreed that we’d loved Meru in many different ways, and that we now felt ready to tackle Kili the next day. We’d also got to know one another really well now and the raucous laughter and cheerful teasing was in full swing.

The Umbwe route is an excellent way to ascend KIli: quiet (we were the only ones at the Cave campsite), dramatic (soaring ridges, breathtaking views and enjoyable paths) and swift (depositing us at the Baranco camp after only 2 days on the mountain). Again, we were in raptures on the way up, particularly on the second day when we glimpsed our first views of Kibo, the summit cone of Kili; it suddenly looked very close too! The fun factor was high, with the banter being led by Mark as always! Thereafter, we joined the southern circuit, making a rising traverse over the next few days to find ourselves poised at Barafu camp, ready for our summit night!

Setting off before midnight, the temperature initially wasn’t too cold, but as the night progressed and we slowly gained elevation, the down jackets and big gloves were most definitely required. Onwards and upwards we trudged, a couple of team members deciding that it wasn’t for them that night, but eventually, the skies were beginning to brighten and just below the crater rim at Stella Point, we were treated to an absolutely magnificent sunrise. The dawning of the day warms the bones and strengthens the resolve and so with almost a spring in our step we crested the rim and saw down into the crater of Kibo. For Mark, Norman and Ted, this was their summit and very well done to them too. The remaining 9 carried on around the edge to finally see the famous sign at Uhuru Point, and so Tracy, Suvash, Paul T, Nick, Pete, Laurie, David, Caroline & Paul P plus the local guides and I stood on the summit of the highest freestanding mountain in the world! A great moment indeed and one that we shall all look back on as the culmination of a really fun trip with really fun people on a really fun mountain. My thanks to Kate, Roger, Libby and all the others too for making my job so enjoyable on Kilimanjaro. What a team.

Rob Wymer

Jagged Globe Expedition Leader

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