Trip Reports

Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes - October 2019

Written by Leader Rob Wymer, November 2019

Take a bunch of committed trekkers, mix with an exceptional itinerary, blend carefully with jaw-dropping scenery, add a pinch of fine weather, a dash of ancient culture, and sprinkle with laughter. Does this seem like the perfect recipe for an amazing holiday in Nepal? For me and my team on the Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes trek recently, the proof certainly was in the pudding.

Upon reaching Kathmandu airport our start was, I have to say, less than auspicious. The international flight was on time, all our bags turned up, but Simon had decided to leave getting his visa until he arrived in Nepal - despite living perhaps the closest to the UK Nepalese embassy out of all of us…….. Sometimes this works, but on this occasion the length of the queues was biblical, and I was debating keeping track of time with a calendar rather than my watch. Eventually however, he arrived, his trademark grin as intact as it was ever to be, and we swiftly forgave him and headed to the tranquility of the hotel.

The flight into Lukla was its usual exciting self, and soon we were on our way up the Khumbu valley, joining the throng en route to Namche Bazaar and beyond. The first view of Everest in the distance on the second day of trekking was an exciting moment, even though we knew we were to get many more and better ones in the days to come. Pausing for a few nights’ acclimatisation in Namche allowed us to explore the area a little, before we struck off, well away from the usual ‘tourist trail’ of trekkers following the usual Everest Base Camp itinerary. Our first objective was the wonderfully remote and spectacular Thame valley and the Renjo La pass. The trail was suddenly very, very quiet, and we marvelled at the huge mountains looming into view on the Tibetan border ahead. Small, simple hamlets provided us with accommodation every now and then, before it was time to head up towns the Pass. Unfortunately, Rod and Martin had to leave us at this point, with Moira maintaining marital harmony by going too. The rest of us pushed onwards and upwards, finally cresting the Renjo La pass to be confronted with what must be one of the most fabulous views in the Himalayas. Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse dead ahead, Cho Oyu to the left, and the pretty village of Gokyo down below nestled by the stunning blue lake. That was Pass One, and Peak One soon followed in the form of Gokyo Ri, during a bit of chill time at Gokyo. Some members went up in the late afternoon for sunset where the Big ‘Uns in the distance appeared to be ‘on fire’, whilst others in the team chose the next morning to ascend. By this stage, the regular games of Sh1thead were in full swing in the evenings! Despite only just being taught the rules, Simon appeared to be regularly wiping the floor with the opposition, much to Ben’s chagrin!

After picking our way across the huge glacier, it wasn’t long before the Cho La (Pass 2) was dispatched along with its own thrilling views. Sadly, after this Tony had to leave us (vowing to be back). Then after rejoining the main tourist trail briefly, we visited Everest Base Camp and then were at the top of Kala Pattar (Peak 2) overlooking the immense Khumbu glacier, EBC and the famous Khumbu ice fall on the route up Everest too. It was an impressive spot: a dramatic natural amphitheatre with us on the stage, and The Big E, Lhotse, Nupste, Pumori, Khumbutse, Lingtren and others forming the audience. Happily for us, we were soon to leave the crowds behind once more, as we crossed the glacier and headed up to our final pass - the Kongma La. We may have been fitter, we may have been more acclimatised but it was still a challenge. Again the views from the top were stunning though, and made it all worthwhile as we gazed down into the Imja valley, with Island Peak and Ama Dablam dominating the skyline. Simon was still sweeping all before him in the games of cards which was just as well, as it countered the increasing levels of banter levelled at his tights!

Our final peak was Chukking Ri; it didn’t look very inspiring from below, but as we climbed higher it became way more appealing, with its backdrop of the gigantic Nuptse wall right behind, staggering and newly-different views, and an exciting scramble to the true summit to finish with too. It was a great way to end our climbing and we happily descended to warmer air, more vegetation and bakeries over the next few days on our way down to Lukla, the only incident being that which precipitated Alwyn being renamed as ‘Usain’……..

I thoroughly enjoyed this trek; it’s a well-designed itinerary through spectacular scenery in an amazing country, but what really made it was the company. My thanks therefore to Martin & Moira, Rod, Ann & Alwyn, Alex, Ian, Tony, Ben, Terry and Simon, plus Jeden and our local crew too for making this a truly memorable trip.

Rob Wymer

Jagged Globe Expedition Leader

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