Trip Reports

Kyajo Ri, October 2022

Written by Leader Sam Benson, November 2022

"Kyajo Ri is an absolute peach of an expedition. A fabulous trek, a remote and beautiful valley and a summit day that is technical and in a fantastic position. Book onto this trip now before the secret gets out and the proposed new tourist track into this wonderful place gets built and the place is changed."

It's 2am, the wind is blowing, ice crystals fall from the roof of the tent. I need to make a decision. Do we start to make moves to go for the summit or wait? It's 4am and I am outside, fixing the tents down with ice axes, trek poles and anything I can drive into the snow. The wind is still blowing and gusting hard. I am shouting to the others not to dress, stay inside and wait until 6am for the call. It's 6am. We all shout and call and it's go time for the summit. The wind is blowing, the sun is coming onto the tents and it is now or not at all. We all meet dressed, check crampons and harnesses, before a quick briefing on checking toes, fingers and nose. Time to set off towards the summit.

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I explained to the group at the start of our time together in Nepal that expeditions to high places are like eating a chocolate elephant. Rush at it and try too much in one go and you will be sick. Better to go slow and steady.

Our trip began at the elephant’s backside. Lukla was closed to flights and there was a backlog of 700 people, with a poor forecast for days to come. The decision was made to crack on with a long bus journey, finishing in darkness on a dirt track (interesting) and an overnight in a teahouse. This was followed the next morning with a jeep journey (very interesting) and then a day and a half of trekking in the rain and mud. Finally, we arrived in the Khumbu and were back on track.

We all quickly jelled as a team and began a superb trek. Up to Namche, a rest day with Everest views, followed by days of trekking around Kyajo Ri. Ascents of Golkyo Ri and a crossing of the Renjo La, with fabulous views and quieter tracks and trails.

Sadly, two of our team had to get home urgently and left us just before we ascended into the empty valley of base camp. The ascent into base camp is a brilliant days trek, up and into a hidden valley. The valley is surrounded by walls and peaks, with very little trace of people. We were all amazed by the skill of the Dzo driver as he encouraged the animals to follow us into the hidden valley. Not one bag was lost or damaged; he earned his tip at end the end of the trip.

The next week saw our team all work hard to put ourselves and all the equipment into high camp for a chance to summit. This phase is real expedition work; load carrying, setting up camp, melting snow for drinks and meals, whist all the time near to or above 5,000m.

Summit day on Kyajo Ri, October 2022

It's 11.26am, we all stand on the most solid piece of snow we can find on the meringue topping of Kyajo Ri. We relish the tip of the elephant’s trunk. We have eaten the elephant!

All the way up I have been checking the team, watching snow blow from the tops and walls around us. Myself and the Sherpa team have been checking and chatting all the way up. In the last hour the sun has won and the wind has dropped enough.

Sitting or standing we stare at the staggering range of peaks all around us, Everest, Lhoste, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Cholaste, Kantega, Mera Peak. The vista goes on and on. Future peaks to climb and familiar routes and faces.

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The trek out form Base camp to Namche is also a day that will stay with me forever. You follow the water pipe / supply around, across and over a wonderful route. It's interesting all the way to lunch in Khunde and down to the noise and people in Namche.

My thanks go out to Allan, Carsten, Dave, Mark, Nick and Sandra for being a great team. Also to Sherap Sherpa and his fabulous team, the best I have worked with in Nepal.

Sam Benson, Expedition Leader

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