Trip Reports

Ama Dablam 2004

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, December 2004

The 2004 Ama Dablam team members; Peter Huskins, James Ellson Simon Triger, Frank Wigley and their leader, Adele Pennington, finally met up in Namche Bizarre on 18 November where they spent the day enjoying their first views of Ama Dablam (6,856m).

The short trek into base camp via Pangboche was accompanied by excellent weather, which made the team optimistic for their forthcoming ascent. The team arrived in base camp (4,535m) on 22 November, to be welcomed by their team of supporting Sherpas, Cooks and Sirdar. As all the team were at different levels of acclimatisation, the first day was spent taking a walk towards Camp 1 (5,700m) with James Ellson and Adele reaching camp 1 for a brief visit. The Puja followed on 23 November and the team were then ready to start their expedition in earnest. Whilst Simon and Frank followed their acclimatisation programme, James and Pete, who had previously acclimatised made their way onto the mountain.

Unfortunately, Pete had to leave the team whilst James and Adele accompanied by Nima Gombu Sherpa (10 time Everest summiteers) started their ascent of the mountain. Two nights at camp 1 ensured that the team were fit to move through to camp 2 (5,956m). Despite a late departure from camp 2 to allow overnight snow to melt, the team moved across the ridge quickly, enjoying the climbing on near-perfect granite. The Yellow Tower provided the usual entertainment, especially with a 20+ Kg pack. After a good night at camp 2, the team moved through to camp 3 (6,359m). Mid way through the day the weather changed to resemble that of a bad day in Scotland. Despite their exposed location, the tents of camp 3 were a welcoming sight. Taking refuge for the night the team thought their summit attempt may be aborted by the weather. Strong winds buffeted the tent throughout the night and early morning. However, a sudden change in the weather meant that at 10.00am on the 29 November James, Adele and Nima Gombu could set off for the summit, which they reached at 2pm. After a short celebration, they descended back to camp 3 for another windy night.

The following day, the team made their way back to camp 1 where James accompanied by Nima Gombu descended to base camp and Adele waited for Frank, Simon, Pema and Podowa. The next day they rested and planned their ascent from camp 1. Unfortunately, during the night Simon developed symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and had to descend the following day. Frank, Adele, Pema and Podowa then set off for their ascent. This time the weather was superb and the ascent went very smoothly. From camp 2, the team made their way to camp 3 in perfect sunshine. Camp 3, although windy, seemed a much more pleasant spot and the following day (4 December), the team departed at 7.00am to top out at 10.40am and return to camp 2 the same day.

On return to base camp the team walked back to Lukla tired but delighted at the success of the expedition.

Adele Pennington, 16 December 2004 « Previous report | Next report »

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