Trip Reports

Ama Dablam 2006

Written by Leader Neal Short, December 2006

Ama Dablam (Mother's Charm Box) 2006

Team Members:
Neal Short (Leader)
Tom Briggs (Assistant Leader)
Chris Goddard
Angus McDonald
Ian Hicks
Hadley Weight
Dean Wheeldon
Andreas Timmer
Arie Verudenhil

After enjoying a few days sight-seeing in Kathmandu the team flew into Lukla. Upon landing we received a warm welcome from our local staff:

Nima Temba (Sirdar)
Pemchhiri (High Altitude Sherpa)
Tashi (High Altitude Sherpa)
Ram (Cook)
Pemba (Kitchen staff)
Tsheringpema (Kitchen staff)
Beda (Porter)

15th November: To the Khumbu
We left Lukla for a six-day trek into BC and this gave plenty of time for the team to gel before setting foot on the mountain. Along the way we enjoyed staying in the lodges and marvelled at the dominating peaks such as Kangtega and Thamserku; and ultimately our impressive objective – Ama Dablam.

16th November: Bad news
Sadly along the way we learnt of the Camp 3 serac collapse on Ama Dablam. It shocked the team and after a discussion about it we decided to carry on with the expedition but further reassess the Camp 3 situation when nearer to that point on the mountain.

19th November: Meeting the Lama
Before wandering up to BC we had an audience with the Head Lama in Pangboche. For our expedition he performed a puja (blessing for safe passage). The early morning ceremony lasted for well over an hour and the Lama was remarkably jovial. At the end of the ceremony we where given a red cord, worn around our neck, and a handwritten card, which had an image of Mount Kailash on. The card was to be shown towards the mountain before each days climbing and was hoped it would bring good luck.

22nd November: Acclimatisation
After a few days at BC, sorting out the expedition food, having a further puja and completing a ropes skills session we started our mountain acclimatisation phase. We initially walked up to Point 5,000m before going up the following day to stay overnight at ABC (5,400m). All members except Dean, who returned to BC, managed to stay at ABC and the day after walked up to Camp 1 (5,700m), then returned to BC that afternoon.

25th November: In BC
Over the next few days we rested at BC during a spell of particularly cold weather. All of us donned our summit duvet jackets and much appreciated the gas heater in the mess tent. Also having the heater proved a real luxury for our movie nights!

27th November: On the mountain
With all the team members fit and well we made plans for our summit bids. The whole team had two days acclimatisation at Camp 1 and then Team A - Tom, Ian, Chris and Hadley became the first team members to cross the ridge to Camp 2 (5,900m). The climbing between C1 and C2 was fantastic with scrambling in crampons and then excellent rock climbing on perfect granite culminating in the Yellow Tower. Unfortunately at this time Arie decided he couldn’t go on and descended all the way to Namche for a few days.

2nd December: On top
Camp 3 was put at the start of the Mushroom Ridge (c6,200m). Team A made their summit bid from this camp during which the rest of the members had a rest day in Camp 2. Team A left camp at 7.40am but Ian soon returned and descended to Camp 1 with Pemchhiri. Tom reached c6,600m before calling it a day. Chris and Hadley, supported by Tashi, went onto summit at 2pm. From the top they enjoyed the stunning vista over the Khumbu but especially of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. That afternoon Angus decided against going any further and descended to Camp 1 with Ian. This left myself, Andreas and Dean at Camp 2.

3rd December: On the mountain
Unfortunately myself and Andreas developed bad chest infections and were unable to carry on and therefore, with Pemchhiri, only Dean carried on up to Camp 3.

4th December: Another Summit
Dean summited in a ‘blistering pace’ at 11am and managed to descend all the way to Camp 2 the same day.

5th December: Leaving BC
The team reunited back in BC a few days earlier than scheduled. Tom and Ian took the opportunity to trek out via the Cho La and Gokyo, whereas the rest of the team retraced their steps back down the Khumbu to Lukla.

9th December: Kathmandu
After three weeks in the mountains and about that length of time without a shower it was great to get back to the Summit Hotel. The team members used the remaining time for sight-seeing and celebrating the success of the expedition with meals at the Everest Steak House and Rum Doodle restaurants.

In summary, Ama Dablam provided a technically demanding climb in quite spectacular surroundings. We enjoyed terrific weather and had a brilliant sherpa team. But the lasting memory is one of the high spirit and comradeship which developed between the whole team.

Neal Short, Expedition Leader.

Further reading:
1. Himalayan Alpine Style; Fanshawe & Venables, 1995.
2. Alpinist Magazine, Number 10. « Previous report | Next report »

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