Trip Reports

Dhaulagiri Circuit Reconnaissance

Written by Leader Mungo Ross, December 2008

I managed to become violently ill in Kathmandu after the Mera Peak expedition (ironically after we had all survived 3 weeks with good health), so spent a few days at the Summit Hotel resting before setting out on this reconnaissance trek. The first several days particularly I felt pretty rough, and couldn't stop coughing, and even going home at the end of the month I still do not feel 100%. Despite this, I enjoyed the trek - it is a fantastic journey through an interesting and spectacular part of the Nepal Himalaya - and still managed to get back to Kathmandu several days ahead of the regular itinerary.

I was accompanied by 2 sherpas, Pemchiri and Shiva (cook), and 3 strong, fit and acclimatised porters - the 3 Pasangs! Because I had just finished a Mera trip the idea was that I would be fit and acclimatised; we didn't recon on my getting so sick, and the team saw me as "burrah sahib", not a delicate client! So the pace was somewhat relentless, at times a bit like a forced march, and we skipped several stages and certainly walked sections far faster than our groups would expect to do. But the 5 of them did an excellent job of showing me the way and looking after me (and each other). Even if I couldn't eat much of the food provided (we went minimalist - dhal baht or spam!), they certainly made sure I always had the option.

Because we were travelling as a "local" group rather than as a "commercial" group, the journey was much more of a "travel experience" - pretty hardcore at times; local busses, staying in tea houses, staple diet meals, and at a sherpa pace. This though allowed me to see and experience just how rural and undeveloped the land we were travelling through really is. It is easy to miss this on an organised group trip, always in private vehicles, in our own wee tents and catered for in a mess tent. It can be very difficult for group members to actually "meet" the culture that they are passing through. Certainly this trek takes one through very rural Nepal. Although it has become quite a popular trek and local people are cashing in on providing services along the way, it is still nothing like the Khumbu, Mera, or even the Kali Gandaki trails.

Our main concern organising this trek (reflected by several Sherpa's opinion), is that it is a committing and relatively serious trek. In the event of bad weather and or heavy snow fall once up on the Chhonbardan Glacier, navigation can become difficult, and life for the porters can become hard. It is certainly not a trek for first time trekkers, and group members need to be both fit and experienced enough. What the trip really does have to offer, is in a relatively short time (18 days) the opportunity to trek through a relatively undeveloped, major Himalayan Valley, be amongst some huge and spectacular mountains, commit to crossing a high pass on a circular walk, and taking in a summit over 6,000m.

On this trek there are some quite steep and exposed sections of path to negotiate, the acclimatisation is a bit awkward because the significant altitude gain all comes quite suddenly well into the trip, and the French Pass/Hidden Valley/Dhampus Pass area seems to attract sudden weather changes. But for the adventurous, experienced trekker looking to "tick" 6,000m and see a quieter part of Nepal, this is a great trek.

Although Damphus Peak is technically straightforward - axe, crampons, harness and ropes need to be carried but may well not be used - cold is a serious issue. Good, well insulating boots and clothing are essential. Getting caught high on this trek in bad weather would be potentially very serious for the group, and particularly for the porters. This needs to be considered and taken into account particularly when deciding how best to use the rest and spare days.

Mungo Ross, Trek Leader, November 2008 « Previous report | Next report »

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