Trip Reports

Aconcagua - 7 to 31 Jan '10

Written by Leader Jeremy Windsor, February 2010

On a rest day visit to Aconcagua’s Artist-in-Residence, something made us all sit up and take notice. Mike was not only a master of the brush and crayon but he also had a talent for simplifying complicated meteorological reports and making an accurate weather forecast. On telling him of our plans there was a sharp intake of breath and a slow shake of the head! Running his fingers over his laptop keyboard he brought up chart after chart that revealed the worst possible combination – heavy snowfall, high winds and cold temperatures for all three of our potential summit dates. What could we do? One option was to cut a day from our acclimatisation programme and make an attempt before the mountain noticed. Could we do it?

Up until then everything had gone perfectly. Blue skies and a light breeze had accompanied us all the way from the park entrance to Plaza De Mulas Base Camp. An afternoon of light snowfall had done little to stop our progress and we’d gone on to comfortably complete a climb of nearby Bonete Peak and a series of load carries to Camps 1 and 2.

Over the next two days we returned to Camp 2 and finally our strategy was set. Rather than spend two days acclimatising there, we would continue on up to Camp 3, otherwise known as Berlin Hut, and make our summit attempt from there. Of course our guides, Lucas, Javier, Paolo and Geremius, were confident but then these guys were capable of tackling just about anything placed in front of them. Only that day the four of them had carried more than 30kgs each into Camp 2. Since the rest of the team had barely managed half of that weight I wasn’t sure if we’d be able to keep up!

We set off late from Camp 2 on the steep zig zag track to Berlin Hut. Jildou set off with the porters, stretching her legs and showing us how it should be done! Lucas next, followed by the strong quartet of Mike, Barry, Richard and Rachel – all very experienced at high altitude. Indeed Barry and Mike have almost ten Jagged Globe trips under their belt and knew what was in store! Following shortly behind were the rest of us, all pleasantly surprised at how well acclimatized we were. Within four hours we were safely smothered in down and ready for an early night.

An unpleasant 0430 alarm call gave way to a rather nice cup of tea and a handful of biscuits in bed. The next hour passed all too quickly and our hopes of a 0530 departure were not quite met. Nevertheless progress was soon made and a first stop at the ruin of the Independenzia Hut was made in good time. Along the way a number of disappointed climbers from other groups had started to return, heading down to lower camps without a summit prize. For many, the day had proved to be too much. I counted at least 50 disappointed faces. Unfortunately, we suffered our own casualties with five members encountering problems and returning early to Berlin Hut.

At Independenzia we fixed our crampons and climbed a short snow bulge before setting out on the infamous traverse to the foot of the “Canaleta”. Eventually, the remaining Jagged Globe team met up at “The Cave”, a tall overhanging cliff that marked the entrance of the “Canaleta”. Sadly, we had lost two guides and five team members but those that remained were still optimistic. Successful summiteers were now descending, patting us on the shoulders and providing words of encouragement.

Lucas led off, followed by Jildou, Mike, Barry, Richard, Rachel and Nigel. Further back Javier and I accompanied Jimmy, Tyara and Benji. We struggled a little, losing time on Lucas’s “dream team” but somehow we carried on. With Tyara setting a perfect rhythm, the rest of us followed closely behind. Jimmy, at 71 years, was moving like a man half his age, offering words of encouragement and humour along the way. Benji, the perfect team man was happy to stay just behind, keeping everyone safely together. On we went. Snow began to fall, intermittent at first, but then with some force. Above us we could see glimpses of the summit smeared in grey cloud. Eventually Jildou was spotted waving from the high point, a broad white smile creasing her face. We now found ourselves behind a slower group and time was starting to pass by all too quickly. Our successful team mates had now begun to descend. On passing, Nigel, took a tight grip of my arm and simply said “don’t give up”.

After listening to his radio, Javier looked at us all nervously. “Lucas says that if we don’t get to the summit in the next ten minutes we must turn back. The weather is too bad”. Everyone heard Javier’s words and knew what to do. Was there extra fuel in the tank? Yes of course! The strides grew longer and the slower group were quickly overtaken. On we went in breathless silence, minutes passed, but soon we found ourselves just inches below the summit. We’d made it! Above our heads the electricity of a storm was splashing down upon us. With the summit at eye level, we decided that enough was enough. We’d be the last to summit that day.

Our descent the next day began late. The tents, caked in inches of snow, had to be cleared and dried. Eventually, just before midday we set off. Snow soon began to fall, adding layer upon layer to the four or so inches that had fallen the previous day. Despite the promise of worsening weather, other teams continued to file past. Only days later would we find out that many had been forced to spend two or more uncomfortable nights at Camp 3. For some this would prove too much, forcing many down empty handed. Whilst most of the team zipped ahead, Richard, Jildou, Benjy and Tyara stayed behind ushering the slower team members down. With guides and porters to help us, not to mention the occasional short rope, we were back in time for late afternoon pizzas! Above us the clouds continued to thicken and we went to bed with the sound of fresh snow falling on our tents.

The next morning the clouds were slow to lift. Derek, Mark and Greg were worried men since the previous evening they’d booked a once-in-a-lifetime helicopter ride to the park gates and were already preparing for lunch in Mendoza! Given that such a journey normally takes at least twelve hours, with most of it spent on foot, there was perhaps a little jealousy in the air and a hope amongst one or two that the clouds would remain resolutely stuck! Fortunately, the clouds lifted and the trio were whisked down the valley in just twelve minutes! The rest of us donned our trekking shoes and reluctantly turned towards home. As we left base camp for the last time I turned to watch the team assemble. We all looked pretty good. There was still a spring in our step and a smile on our faces. Given this it struck me that those who hadn’t joined us on the summit must have been very close indeed. On another day the top would surely have been theirs.

This expedition would not have been possible without the help of a large number of people.

However special thanks must go to Daniel, Lucas, Javier, Paolo and Geremias. We climbed “on the shoulders of giants”.

All 14 Jagged Globe team members reached Berlin Hut (5,900m) in good style.
9 out of 14 reached the summit of Aconcagua (6,962m) on the 23rd January 2010.
All team members, guides and porters returned safely to Plaza De Mulas Base Camp.
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