Trip Reports

Mera Peak - 14 Oct to 6 Nov '11

Written by Leader, December 2011

Mera Peak 6476m, 14th October to 6th November 2011 (plus classic Everest trail trip extension to 12th November

Team: David, Douglas, Joanna, Kitty, Linda, Magnus, Paula, Suzy and leader Philip Our team members travelled from the UK, USA, Australia and Sweden finally assembling late Saturday night in the Summit Hotel, Kathmandu.

Last minute panics, questions, repacking and sleep accompanied by howling dogs led to a 6:30 wakeup call on Sunday for travel to the airport. Despite warnings of the unexpected and airport chaos we left the departure lounge on time and after a sweaty delay on the runway we arrived at Lukla midday. However four of our kitbags took a more relaxed journey and arrived mid afternoon. With this and a shortage of porters we made a decision to stay at Lukla.

Monday, early 06.45 start with bed tea, washing water and kit phaff. Then we were off on the expedition trail with high spirits, lazy lunch at Surke and on to Poyan. This proved to be a typical day; with the early morning routine becoming quicker and slicker, after all this was an expedition not a holiday! The weather was generally clear during the day drawing in with mist/rain in the late afternoon.

The team visit to the Pangkongma Monastery with Nawang Java for our summit and flag blessing was a very memorable and humbling experience, a truly emotional cultural bonus worthy of a special mention in future brochures.

Our first day in the Hinku valley tempted us with our first views of Mera Peak. It was real now and bolstered by mountain stream skinny dips we continued our acclimatisation route – Nashing Dingma, Chalem Kharka, Dunda Kharka onwards with morning snow, ball bearing hailstones, snowball fights and snowmen. Rest day by Panch Pokhri lakes provided us with amazing panoramic views and sunsets.

Rested and with high chuff chart scores we descended with good weather to Khote and bounced our way up the Hinku valley, Tangnag, Dig Kharka, finally arriving at Khare camp for our rest day, training, kit phaff etc.

Khare camp buzzed with teams preparing, coming and going, the air was electric with apprehension, excitement and war stories of summit bids during the last few days. The local high point provided full views of the Mera glacier and summit, with small black dots showing us the way. This was it!

The weather was good with clear skies. Our team was now tuned and honed for the early morning routine which unfolded steadily, with plastic boots on and ice axes at the ready we were off. The glacier ascent slowed us down but the halfway welcome of Nima our Kitchen boy with chocolate bars and hot juice spurred us on through the crevasses to the Mera La and base camp (5350m). A steady plod on Saturday took us to High Camp (5780m) on a ledge behind a rock that sheltered us from the elements. Braced by the fine views and a toilet tent perched on the edge of a huge drop, we rested the best we could for an early start.

Summit day, Sunday 02:00 hrs with porridge, pancakes and japettes the team went through the motions of getting ready. The dark cold start was replaced by the finest weather seen during the expedition with amazing crisp panoramic views. A slow plod, fixed ropes, bloody mindedness and determination led six clients to the summit. After a long day the team regrouped at Khare Camp with the last member home by dark. Food, war stories, emotions, celebrations and early night.

Monday, a lie in to 07:00hrs, the weather had clearly turned for the worst with a hard frost and frozen water supplies. It was a long steady day descending with cold winds to Khote finishing with snow falling through the night.

With this change of weather in mind the decision was made to abandon our planned rest day and escape the Hinku valley while we could. A frustrating up/down path led us through snow covered forest to open steep ground where our cook rescued one of our ladies from an off piste tumble. The lodge at Tali Kharka was a welcome refuge where we warmed ourselves ready to dig the campsite free of snow. Snowfall continued and by late evening the tents were barely visible. The weather had cleared in the morning revealing an amazing panoramic view. A deep snow plod led us steadily over the Zatrwa La and down a fixed rope from Zatr Og. This was the home run now, energised by lunch and a descent through snow covered rhododendrons we arrived back at Lukla by night fall. Hearty celebrations and tales of derring-do followed.

The bad weather on our rest day prepared us for the inevitable cancellation of our flight the following day. With a back log of trekkers (international news was quoting 2000 people stranded in the mountains) we made the decision to control our own destiny and walk out to the road head at Shivalaya and get a bus to Kathmandu. After an interesting 5 day trek down the classic Everest trail we had a hair raising bus journey down the mountain track to the tarmac road at Jiri and after a 12 hour day we were back in the comfort of the Summit hotel. Although very tired we forced ourselves to celebrate again. This definitely was an expedition in the true sense and well done to all members for working as a team and digging deep when required.

Philip Pearson, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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