Trip Reports

Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes - 11 Oct to 4 Nov '12

Written by Leader Becky Coles, November 2012

The team met at Heathrow Airport with the exception of Jonathan who was meeting us in Kathmandu and culminating a 4 month travelling trip with the trek. The flights went without hitch and we were whisked from the Kathmandu Airport to the comfort of the Summit Hotel. The following morning we were back at the airport but this time for a domestic flight. Notoriously unreliable, we queued outside departures apprehensively. Much to our surprise we were checked in and hurried through security straight onto a plane. In no time at all we were in the air and flying east, looking along the length of the Himalayas, Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh, Langtang and finally Everest. We cleared a small col and swooped into Lukla; all very exhilarating!

Our team headed by Sirdar Dawa was there to meet us and after a welcome cup of tea we hit the trail. Two days of trekking took us to our first significant ascent to Namche Bazaar. The following morning we woke to a crystal clear skies, which afforded us our first views of Everest (from solid ground at least), as well as Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam as we acclimatised.

We continued trekking the next day, this time away from the crowds heading directly to Everest Base Camp, turning off the main trail to Thame. Appreciating having the trail to ourselves it was a pleasant walk. We had another acclimatisation day in Thame, where we visited the monastery and relaxed before heading towards our first pass; the Renjo La.

Several days walk took us to a cold night at a base camp below the Renjo La. Our highest sleep height so far meant that there were the inevitable headaches. Unfortunately Joanne's had not abated in the morning and we made the decision that she needed to descend. For the rest of the team an early start meant that we reached the top of the pass before midday to be greeted by the most breathtaking views of Everest across the valley and Gokyo below us.

A rest day in Gokyo meant that we could explore the lakes and relax before an alpine start the following day to ascend Goyko Ri to have views of Everest and Cho Oyu at sunrise. On our return we had a well deserved breakfast before setting out across the glacier to Dragnag to put us in position to cross the Cho La the following day.

In order to ascend the Cho La another early start was necessary. We made steady progress to the scree and then picked our way through this terrain without incident to the prayer flags which mark the top of the pass. The team found the descent over the glacier on the other side of the pass interesting and many photos were taken. Rounding the corner the valley opened up to views of Ama Dablam rising above a cloud inversion £ cue more photographs.

Breakfast the following morning was al fresco, in the warm morning sunshine, looking out on views of Ama Dablam. The descent that day took us past Lobuje East base camp from where we could see teams climbing the final snow slope to the summit. As we walked into Lobuje, our stop for that evening, we heard a yell, it was Joanne who, after having descended before the Renjo La, had walked around to meet us. That evening we caught up on each others' stories whilst it snowed outside.

The team now complete again, we continued to Gorak Shep. After a long lunch and a bit of a rest we set out for Kala Pattar. In the afternoon sun and as a result of the snowfall the previous evening, avalanches rumbled down the Nuptse wall in huge plumes. Kala Pattar was a tough test on tired legs, but everyone made it to the summit and was rewarded with stunning views of Everest.

The next day we walked through the moraines to Everest Base Camp for views of the camp and the Khumbu Icefall. We returned to Gorak Shep from where Emma telephoned a class at her local primary school to talk to them about the trek, which they clearly found very exciting by the way that she had to hold the receiver away from her ear in order not to be deafened.

We decided to descend further to Lobuje that afternoon in order to have a warmer night and rest the following day. Unfortunately the night before leaving to cross the final pass, the Kongma La, snow fell again and the decision was made not to attempt it. Instead we walked around to Chukkung, which put us within striking distance of our final peak Chukkung Ri. Unfortunately a long trek had taken it's toll and several of the group felt too tired and run down to attempt this peak. Ann, James, Jonathan, Ollie and I set out on the 800m ascent to the top. Ann and James took the easier path at the col to the south summit whilst Jonathan, Ollie and I scrambled to the top to the north summit within touching distance of the Nuptse wall and views of Lhotse and Island Peak. A great way for Jonathan to celebrate his birthday.

It was now all downhill to Lukla, well Nepalese downhill, which we discovered actually involves quite a lot of uphill! Within four days we were back in Lukla celebrating with a slap-up meal and a party in the teahouse with our porter team well after the bars in town had closed.

Much to our surprise, again, the flight from Lukla to Kathmandu left on time without a hitch and we were soon enjoying the luxury of the Summit Hotel and exploring the sights of Kathmandu. A final meal in Thamel concluded a very successful expedition which saw all members trek for longer and higher than they had previously achieved.

Becky Coles
Expedition Leader, November 2012

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