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Buying a Rock Climbing Harness - A Jagged Globe Guide

Written by Sam Leary, May 2015

Introduction
When looking to buy your first rock climbing harness the myriad of choices out there can be a bit overwhelming. The selection available now covers all activities, all shapes and sizes and it seems, all prices and colours. You can buy a harness that will cover winter, alpine and summer rock climbing but there will be compromises somewhere.

Comfort and functionality should be the first things to consider. Here are some questions to help you choose:

Considerations

What am I hoping to use it for?
You are coming on a rock course, so hopefully it's for climbing in nice weather, but we need to be mindful of the British climate. The fitting range needs to be flexible enough to allow you to wear a T-shirt, (the sun does shine sometimes!) and it can be hot at the climbing wall however, there might well be occasions when you need to wear a fleece/waterproof jacket. Check that you can do so easily and it does not take you right to the extremes of the fit.

Look for something with good padding, you can use a 'webbing only' winter or alpine harness but it will not be as comfortable.

Do I want adjustable or fixed leg loops?
Not all of us fit into the size ratios that harness manufactures come up with. Adjustable leg loops are good as they allow a perfect fit for a variety of body shapes and thick or thin trousers. They will also allow you to use the harness in winter or the Alps as they will go over crampons. Fixed leg loops mean the harness is lighter (we are talking about less than half a Mars bar in weight though!) and slightly less bulky.

A more important consideration for your first harness is that fixed leg loops can make it simpler to put on. Keep an open mind here and always go with the better fit.

Male or female?
Gender specific harnesses take into account that women have different waist and thigh proportions to men. Men's harnesses will have a shorter 'drop' (i.e. the distance between the belt and leg loops) which allows for the more compact pelvis of a man. Some women may fit in a men�s harness and vice versa.

A model with adjustable legs loops, will again fit a greater range of shapes and sizes, of both genders. As always, it�s best to check these things out before you part with your cash! A visit to the Jagged Globe shop to try before you buy can mean the difference between a comfortable, well-fitting harness and one you never wear.

What sort of buckle should I go for?
There are two main types of buckle fastenings for harnesses:

The traditional double back buckle. This has been around for decades and works well. It requires practise to get it tight enough and must always be doubled back on itself, with at least a 5cm 'tail' left over. Once secured in this fashion, it is impossible for the harness to undo, despite what you may have seen in the movie Cliffhanger!
ABS (advanced buckle system) just requires you to pull tight. This was designed to eliminate the need for doubling the buckle back (which is easy to forget about, especially when you are a novice). It is quick and simple to use, but remember to tuck the tail into the elastic tabs on the belt. This is an important safety issue, as it will reduce the (fairly unlikely) chance of the buckle catching on something and accidentally opening.

How many gear loops should it have?
For traditional British climbing, a minimum of four gear loops is the base line. There are some models with almost double that number of loops and this will only be an advantage when you start to climb on bigger and longer routes.

Is more expensive better?
Not necessarily. As with any product you will always pay a bit more for certain brands. If a product is sold in UK shops, they are all completely tested and safety rated so more expensive is irrelevant here. The new flat belt technology is pricey but can be very comfy. More cash will buy you the latest, lightest and most compact model but it might not fit you. Come along to the Jagged Globe shop and try lots on, have a dangle on our harness testing facility (don't buy unless you test your full body weight in it) and see how each one feels.

Can I get into it easily?
Harnesses with double buckles on the waist belt will allow a perfect centralisation of the belay loop, but can be quite complex and, initially, rather baffling to correctly orientate. Make sure you are happy with the model you pick and remember, practise makes perfect - so don't be put off too much if it takes a couple of goes to start with.

Fitting

Next, you need to think about how it fits. A poorly fitting harness can be uncomfortable and dangerous.

The harness needs to sit around the very narrowest part of your trunk. You do see some people wearing them too low. This can be very dangerous, particularly if you manage to twist upside down when you fall off. This is unlikely but possible, particularly when mountaineering and wearing a Rucsac which makes you top heavy. The harness would stay attached to the rope but you could quite literally drop out of it. Wear it high and tight � think Simon Cowell�s trousers!

Once in the harness pull it up high and secure it so the top of the belt touches the bottom of your lowest rib. Yes, it really should be that high so hitch it up. Secure the waist buckle first and then adjust the leg loops if required.

At this point there are some key checks to allow you to see if it is the right size for you:

1. The belay loop should be central on your torso and the rear elastic leg loop strops should be central at the back. If things feel a bit offset, the size is probably not quite right for you. Some harnesses have a 'floating belt' which allows you to move the padding around to get it perfect.

2. The inside of the belt should be touching your body all the way around. If the front is pulling out and you can see a lot of the inside then the drop is not long enough for you. Try another size, design or one with adjustable leg loops.

3. Check you are not at the extremes of the fitting range with minimal and maximal clothing.

4. Once happy with the above, have a hang in it for a good few minutes and see how it feels. There will be tension in a variety of places but this should not be uncomfortable.

Congratulations

If all of the above is right then it's your choice of colour and price! Enjoy your new harness. It's now time to get up to Snowdonia and out onto the crags.

Click to Visit our Equipment Shop.

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