Trip Reports

Elbrus - 15 to 27 Aug '15

Written by Leader Paul Donovan, August 2015

Disappointment on Mount Elbrus as heavy snowfall and high winds prevent a summit bid!

Boris and I met the team at Mineralnye Vody following their early morning flight from Moscow. All had gone according to plan. We hopped on a minibus and headed to Piatigorsk, some 30 minutes away. After a quick freshen up it was time for lunch so we headed into the city to be faced with a picture menu and many unrecognisable Russian words - thank goodness for translators Boris and Helen (one of our team members). An equipment check followed lunch, after which it was a quick visit to a local outdoor shop to pick up a few well-needed bits and pieces. A nice but slow evening meal ended the day. Day two saw us load up two old Russian vehicles and a jeep with both ourselves and our kit and head off on a 100km journey, with the last hour being on undulating dirt roads with the finale of crossing a 15 metre wide river with water levels lower than normal. After all that excitement, we arrived at Base Camp (BC), which consisted of a range of 3 person tents with headroom and camp beds - luxury! All meals were taken in a dining hut.

Day three began with an early breakfast before heading off on an acclimatisation trek to around 3,450, some 950m above BC. The trail took us through a fantastic gorge, high above the raging torrent below, across a plateau, before ascending a steep spur to eventually reach our high point. After a short rest, we traversed an interesting moonscape before descending to mushroom rocks - a series of rock plinths whose bases had been eroded away to resemble mushrooms. From here, we descended to gain our plateau from this morning and finally retraced our steps above the gorge and back to BC for a late lunch and siesta. A kit check followed late afternoon to determine how many porters were needed to assist the load carry to high camp. With rucksacks checked for weight and fit, we were set to go. A late evening meal was followed by a well-earned nights sleep. The next day saw us retrace our steps of yesterday, only this time with around 15-20kg on our backs. A couple of porters had also been engaged to carry our group kit and some personal kit, to help ease the load. After reaching our high point of yesterday, we were onto new terrain. It changed very quickly as we made our way across and up the moraine, which offered us anything from one step forwards to two steps back terrain, to a boulder field. After just over an hour on the moraines, we arrived at High Camp (HC), our home for the next six days - a 12-person hut. Lunch arrived shortly afterwards, which was quickly followed by a well-earned siesta. The rest of the day was spent acclimatising and preparing ourselves for our first venture onto snow tomorrow, which was soon with us after a restful night. Initially we spent sometime checking the fit of equipment - boots, crampons, harnesses etc. after which it was time to remind everyone of a couple of knots to use to tie into the rope, which would help with efficiency when we made it onto the snow. It was now time to venture onto the glacier, kit up, rope up in our teams of four plus the guide. The aim was to make 4,000m today, alongside developing efficient rope teams, which was achieved by all. Our first taste of the mountain had been well received by all and they were already talking about tomorrow. The afternoon was spent learning a few more knots, which kept everyone entertained! Before we knew it, evening meal was ready and a good nights sleep followed shortly afterwards.

The next day was our biggest day so far. We left HC at 07:00 and made our way to the glacier, some 10 minutes away. Here we equipped ourselves for a 1,000m+ ascent. It was windy as we departed in our three roped teams. The wind continued throughout the day, reaching speeds of 45knots. We made steady progress to our first stopping point after one hour. From here the slope steepened so zigzagging back and fore the main trail eased the ascent for the teams. At two and a half hours we made it to the first of the rocks at 4,400m, which were some 40 minutes below the start of Lenz rocks, which were at 4,600m. Our ascent continued as our aim was to reach on old helicopter crash site. We arrived here at 11:00 and took a well-earned rest, ate some snacks and drank some fluids, before beginning our descent, initially to Lenz rocks then following the main trail back to HC. It had been a 7hour day and we had reached 4,818m (higher than Mont Blanc). The rest of the day and the following day were spent resting and preparing for our summit bid. The weather was certainly not on our side, which resulted in us resting an extra 24 hours before our summit attempt.

Our summit day bid was unfortunately halted before leaving High Camp due to heavy snowfall and strong winds. What a disappointment for all. Further snowfall and high winds came in during the following morning. We had decided to depart so with around 15-20kg on our backs, we retraced our footsteps, albeit in 6 inches of snow, back to Base Camp and our first shower in 5 days - luxury! Whilst we were due to stay two more nights on the mountain, the team agreed to return to Piatigorsk a day early, to explore the city. Our journey back to Piatigorsk was initially eventful. It had rained most of the night, making for a very muddy ascent of one particular track for the vehicles, taking four attempts and the use of snow chains to eventually make it! Once we had overcome this section, the rest seemed very easy. We continued on, arriving in Piatigorsk, just in time for lunch. Some of us went exploring the market, whilst a few of the male team members headed to 'Chop Chop' for wet shaves, beard trims and haircuts - what an entertaining afternoon! Our final day was spent exploring Piatigorsk. The adventures just continue..........

A big thank you to Boris, Victor and Katia, our three Russian guides who have looked after us on the mountain and around Piatigorsk!

Thank you also to the cook teams at Base Camp and High Camp.

Congratulations to all team members - John, Kat, Lisa, Helen, Paul, Rona, Eda, Frances, Keith, Henry, Alex and Jack, on all their achievements during the trip and thank you for putting up with me for two weeks.

Llongyfarchiadau Pawb (Congratulations all)

Paul Donovan
Expedition Leader
Mount Elbrus
August 2015 « Previous report | Next report »

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