Elbrus

Overview

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A climb to the true summit of Europe's highest mountain via the more remote Northern route

Introduction

25 February 2022. All our trips to Elbrus are cancelled in response to Putin's unprovoked attack against Ukraine, a sovereign nation. We are confident of the support and understanding of our team members despite their disappointment. We will be in touch with alternatives.

Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe, located in the beautiful Caucasus Mountains. On this expedition you climb the highest, west summit (5,642m) of Elbrus via the more remote northern route. In our opinion, the north side of the mountain is more beautiful than the southern aspect, not least because there are no cable cars and snow cats, a prominent feature on the climb from the south.

On the northern route you walk from base camp, spending up to five nights on the mountain to ensure you acclimatise sufficiently for what can only be described as a long and gruelling summit day of nearly 1,900m of ascent. If the weather is clear, the views from the top should make it all worthwhile in the knowledge that you've climbed the mountain by your own efforts.

Please note, we have designed our itinerary based on our own experience of the north side of the mountain and the team will be led by a Jagged Globe leader. We are are not re-selling a Russian agent's standard Elbrus package, many of which are two days shorter than our climb. Russian mountain guides will assist the team, team members need to carry their own personal gear above base camp.

Climb Elbrus with Jagged Globe:

• Expeditions are led by Jagged Globe leaders from the UK.
• Gentle acclimatisation and 2 days set aside for a summit attempt.
• Porterage of personal gear to high camp at North Huts.

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Tailor Made Trips

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

The UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) currently advise against "all but essential" travel to the Elbrus Region. Whilst it is possible to obtain travel insurance for this climb, those who choose to join our team must read the FCDO advice and accept the risks associated with travelling here.

Experience Required

Elbrus is a suitable first expedition for very fit mountaineers. The 1,900m summit day from the north side is extremely tough and is typically a 16-hour round trip. Past team members have compared the summit day on Elbrus from the north to the summit day on Aconcagua. Please read the expedition PDF for more detail about what you can expect and what you need to have done for a realistic shot at the summit.

Our Introductory Winter Mountaineering course in Scotland or our Introductory Alpine Techniques course would be ideal preparation for Elbrus.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Know Before You Go

Jagged Globe supports the British Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) ‘Know Before You Go’ campaign. We recommend that you read the FCO Travel Advice for Russia on the FCDO Website.

What the price includes

• Economy class return airfares from the UK to Mineralne Vody (unless Land Only).
• UK airport taxes.
• Group transfer from Mineralne Vody to Piatigorsk (unless Land Only).
• All road transport between Piatigorsk and base camp by private vehicles.
• 2 nights' hotel accommodation in Piatigorsk (including 1 dinner and 1 breakfast).
• 3 nights' camping in base camp on a full board basis.
• 6 nights' mountain hut accommodation on a full board basis.
• All porterage costs for group equipment.
• Porterage of personal gear (Maximum 10Kg) to North Huts.
• All costs for Jagged Globe leader, Russian guides and local helpers.
• Jagged Globe kitbag or lightweight fleece.

What the price does not include

• Visa fees.
• Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.
• Hotel nights/transfers in Moscow if flight arrangements necessitate overnights there.
• Separate transfer from Mineralne Vody to Piatigorsk for those joining on a 'Land Only' basis at different times to the group transfer.
• Hotel nights in Piatigorsk in the event of returning from the mountain early.
• Bar bills and laundry.
• Travel insurance.
• Farewell meal in Piatigorsk.
• Optional trips and sightseeing tours.
• Tips.

Insurance

You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Jagged Globe. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For a list of insurers who specialise in mountaineering, trekking and skiing, please see our Travel Insurance page »

Itinerary

Here is an outline itinerary for this trip. A more detailed day-to-day itinerary is available as a downloadable PDF »

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - 2:	Fly to Mineralne Vody via Moscow Transfer 30Km to Piatigorsk. Overnight hotel.
Day 3:	Drive to Hathansu Meadow (2,500m) It's a 100Km drive to base camp on the north side of the mountain. The roads start off as surfaced, then gravel, then dirt and deteriorate the closer we get to base camp.
Day 4:	Acclimatisation walk to Stone Mushroom meadow (3,450m) Pleasant walking through grassy terrain and past lakes. Return to base camp for the night.
Day 5:	Climb to North Hut (3,760m) Overnight North hut.
Day 6:	Glacier practie above North Hut (4,000m) Climb to 4,000m - 4,200m to practice crampon work. Overnight North hut.
Day 7:	Acclimatisation on upper slopes of Elbrus Climb to Lenz Rocks, 4,600m - 4,800m. Descend to North hut. Overnight.
Day 8:	Rest day
Day 9:	Ascent of Mount Elbrus (5,642m) The objective is to climb to the higher, west summit.
Day 10:	Spare day In case of bad weather.
Day 11:	Descend to base camp
Day 12:	Return to Piatigorsk In the evening we will have a celebratory meal. Overnight hotel.
Day 13:	Transfer to Mineralne Vody. Flight departures It is possible to arrive back into the London the same day on flights that depart Mineralne Vody in the early afternoon.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

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• Elbrus 2017
• Elbrus - August 2016

Reports & Reviews

First Expedition: Jul 1992
Total: 19 trips

Have you been on this trip? If you'd like to contribute a trip report then we'll post it up on the site.

Team Member Reviews

• “Jagged Globe has a reputation for being the best, and I have to say that I was not disappointed.” KK, Elbrus - Aug '17
• “Well-organised, professional, confidence inspiring, sensible and very exciting at the same time. LF.” Elbrus - Aug '16
• “Superb opportunity to take on the talent mountain in Europe, presenting a serious but achievable challenge that ultimately could be one of the most memorable days of your life.” JS, ELbrus - July '16
• “The trip was well led and good fun. JM.” Elbrus - 1 to 13 Aug '15
• “Incredibly professionally run, and thoroughly enjoyable experience. JS.” Elbrus - 1 to 13 Aug '15
• 5 more reviews »

• “Very well organised and supported. Great leadership from Neal. Good team work and leadership between Neal and the Russian guides. I thoroughly enjoyed this expedition, thank you. ES.” Elbrus, July 2015
• “A life changing experience, culturally magnificent, always exhilarating, and ultimately successful in terms of the summit and a safe return. CP” Elbrus - August 2014
• “None of us was sure we would summit, due to weather and personal fitness, but seeing daybreak over the Caucuses made it all worth while - and we got our second continental summit! PH” Elbrus 2014
• “Tough but extremely fulfilling with a great leader and enormously entertaining and supportive group of co-participants. PS” Elbrus 2014
• “An excellent adventure with a great group of people which has left me with an immense amount of satisfaction in what I have achieved. CB” Elbrus, July 2014

Leader Reports

• Elbrus - 4 to 16 Aug '18
  “Our 4 August Elbrus team came together in Mineral Vodye, a tranquil spa town north of the Caucaus range and got to packing and reorganizing for an early morning drive through the foothills and into the start of our...”
  report added 30/Aug/18
• Elbrus - 28 Jul to 9 Aug '18
  “Climbing the highest mountain in Europe is on everyone’s agenda at some moment in their mountaineering life. I was intrigued to see what Russia was like because it had been 28 years since I was last there and it was the USSR...”
  report added 16/Aug/18
• Elbrus - 21 July to 2 Aug '18
  “I suddenly jerked awake and looked at my watch. 2320, ten minutes before my alarm was due to go off and heavy rain lashing on the tin roof inches above my head had woken me. Around the hut I could hear the stir of bodies awaiting...”
  report added 02/Aug/18
• Elbrus - 29 July to 19 August '17
  “Not the best start, while travelling down to the airport I received a message saying that 2 clients wouldn't make the trip due to injury. But things soon improved, Aeroflot have a very modern fleet of Airbus aircraft so our...”
  report added 10/Oct/17
• Elbrus - 15 Jul to 27 Jul '17
  “Our lives seem to be full of tick lists, especially when it comes to adventures in the outdoors. From ten tors, long distance walks, city marathons, through to collecting mountains, the Munros, alpines 4000ers, on to 5000m 6000m...”
  report added 03/Aug/17
• 8 more reports »

• Elbrus - 13 to 25 August '16
  “Looking out from the hotel balcony, the golden minarets glistened in the morning sun, contrasting starkly with the massive slate grey monument of Lenin emerging amongst the trees of Ploshchad Lenina, but, this was Piatigorsk and...”
  report added 06/Sep/16
• Elbrus - 30Jul to 11 Aug '16
  “At London Heathrow on Saturday 30 July the group of five met up (Sian, Sheena, Paul, Nick and myself) for the flight to Moscow. The other two members, Kietil and Robert, joined us on the flight and the team were complete at...”
  report added 16/Aug/16
• Elbrus - 16 to 28 July '16
  “£So Rob, have they built that new hut yet?£ £Nope£ £Ah, so it£s still 1,900m of ascent and 21km on summit night?£ £Yup£ Silence£££ £Don£t worry...”
  report added 02/Aug/16
• Elbrus - 15 to 27 Aug '15
  “Disappointment on Mount Elbrus as heavy snowfall and high winds prevent a summit bid! Boris and I met the team at Mineralnye Vody following their early morning flight from Moscow. All had gone according to plan. We hopped on a...”
  report added 26/Aug/15
• Elbrus 16th - 28th August '14
  “Summary Report Elbrus 16th August 2014. After two days of fighting the heat in Pitagorsk; Victor and I were ready to return to Elbrus with the new team fresh from the UK. The customary beer and pizza was snatched for lunch...”
  report added 09/Sep/14
• Elbrus 2nd - 14th August '14
  “We were the third Jagged Globe team to leave for Europeís highest Peak this season. Arriving in Mineralnye Vody we were pleased to meet James who was already in country and Victor our main Russian guide. Much hotter than anyone...”
  report added 15/Aug/14
• Elbrus 5th - 17th July '14
  “ This Elbrus North Side expedition was a success with 5 members summiting the West Peak 5642m (the highest of the twin-peaked mountain). It had been well over a decade since Jagged Globe had visited Elbrus due to, at times...”
  report added 14/Aug/14
• Elbrus 19th - 31st July '14
  “North or South, East or West? When you decide to climb Europe's largest summit you are faced with several important decisions. Firstly, do you climb from the more popular South side, utilising the various huts and uplift...”
  report added 14/Aug/14