Trip Reports

Antarctic Climber - 26 Nov to 11 Dec '06

Written by Leader, December 2006

In all my forty plus years of climbing in different regions of the world, the Antarctic climbing trip is hard to beat. A unique experience that offers close encounters with wildlife and sailing through the most beautiful and unspoilt environment, all topped off with climbing on snow and ice from sea level.

The Polar Pioneer has a Russian crew and Aurora Expeditions (the host organisers) are predominantly Aussies and Kiwis. Both groups are focussed on putting you in the right place at the right time, based on weather and the complex cooperative that operates with the other ships in the area. This meant that on our trip we didn’t meet any other groups but did spend time "knee deep" in penguins and seals, both of whom are innately curious and not at all afraid. So much so, that often they will waddle their way right up to you to investigate these strange large visitors to their home!

On our trip we had the full range of Antarctic weather starting with a bumpy ride across the Drake Passage escorted by Albatross, Petrels and many other sea birds. A landing on Penguin Island was followed by a third day which had perfect weather and conditions. Following a morning landing, the afternoon and evening presented us with the surreal experience of sailing amongst icebergs and growlers under a blue sky with not a puff of wind. An evening anchorage allowed us to climb on a very large iceberg (starting in crampons directly from a zodiac is interesting!) whilst a kayak group paddled sedately around the bay. Wow!! An almost indescribable beautiful setting.

The following day the weather deteriorated and we turned back below the summit of Jabet Peak and had a an exciting passage through the famous Lemaire Channel followed by an exciting zodiac ride through the ice around Plenau Island, our furthest South. A race north to beat the weather gave us more ice climbing belayed amongst a penguin colony and a most beautiful landing on Elephant Point. Here we could climb high onto a large glacier moraine and travel between moraine and glacier amongst slumbering piles of Elephant seals. A penultimate landing on Deception Island appealed to me particularly as I felt as if I was stepping back in time wandering around the abandoned whaling station. Our final landing at Robert Point offered more penguins and seals and then we had the return trip across the Drake complete with breaching Minke whales around the bows of Polar Pioneer. Definitely one of life's great adventures.

Sue Walsh « | »

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