Trip Reports

Elbrus 2nd - 14th August '14

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, August 2014

We were the third Jagged Globe team to leave for Europeís highest Peak this season. Arriving in Mineralnye Vody we were pleased to meet James who was already in country and Victor our main Russian guide. Much hotter than anyone anticipated we drove the 40 minutes to our hotel in Pyatigorsk. On arrival lunch was top priority and we made our way down town for Pizza. Unable to understand anything on the menu we were grateful for Victorís translational skills. Following lunch we ensured that we had all the necessary equipment for our expedition and then ended our first day in Russia with some local cuisine.

Early the next morning our 4 x 4 vans arrived, bundled in we set off and were soon on the dirt road leading to the North side base camp (2500m). Uncontrollably giggling we were jostled around on the rutted road and the finale of a river crossing was perhaps a little too much excitement for one day. Natala our cook welcomed us at Hathansu Meadow camp and soon we were settling in to our new surroundings. Victor was insistent that we took an afternoon walk to the springs which were supposed to have healing waters. Unsure of this, but with hundreds of local Russians visiting the site we did not want to tempt fate and all participated in the 15 minute ritual.

So far the weather had not given us views of our summit but for our first load carry we got glimpses of Elbrus towering above anything else. Laden with heavy rucksacks we all felt the altitude and were relieved to cache our kit amongst some rocks at 3300m. Descending via Mushroom rocks in the mist was atmospheric and retracing our steps along the gorge felt exposed as the track had become a mud bath in the rain. The next day we returned to our cache of equipment and most of us decided to go straight up to North camp rather than burden ourselves with an extra 10 kg. North camp was surprisingly comfortable with the four girls taking refuge in their very own hut. Here Kishor a Nepali was our host and cook which made communication a little easier. Picking up our cache the following day seemed much easier and it was evident that we were all acclimatizing well at 3700m. Elbrus revealed itself after three days of bad weather and we all were speechless as we looked up to its summit 8km away and a further 1900m vertical height gain. Tiny dots amongst Lenz rock were climbers descending late in the day. After some glacier training we were ready for our first foray onto the mountain. Roped together we set off in two teams, the clear blue sky was enticing but the winds of around 40km/h stopped play at 4700m and we were all relieved to be back at camp. This was excellent preparation for our summit bid and after a full days rest we were ready.

Throughout our trip the weather had been unsettled and with an impressive thunderstorm and snow on the eve of our summit night, we could only keep our fingers crossed that the night would be clear. Knowing that we only had a narrow summit window we left at midnight. Slowly gaining height the wind at 25km/h was bearable but by 7am the clouds were building and we were in a white room feeling our way up through Lenz rocks. Wanting to keep to our plan of the west summit we traversed across to the col. With uncertainty about the weather and tired members we made the decision to turn around and retrace our steps back to the top of Lenz rocks. Victor made a quick dash to the East Summit with the team members that wanted to whilst the rest of us descended. By noon the first claps of thunder came and lightening lit up the sky. Ice axes were humming and the snow started to fall steadily. Resembling snow men and exhausted after our 15 hour summit bid we were all very pleased to be back safe at camp.

After some soup and tea it was apparent that some of the the team were making plans; the weather forecast for the next couple of days was pretty atrocious but it did look like there could be a small chance of a summit opportunity on the 13th August. Not wanting to stay at North camp we descended to base and a plan was hatched. It could only be described as madness but the enthusiasm for the adventure was infectious and everyone was happy to pay their way for this extra special extension. So it happened a bit like this.

A wacky 4 hr drive back with a couple of technical hitches and a short walk as the 4 x 4 vehicles struggled uphill on the wet mud. A very quick bus transfer and a sauna like drive to Terskol. There was then a little negotiation with the gondola and chair lift operators and a bottle of vodka for thanks to the cook at the Barrel hut. After an 8pm dinner and 10hrs of travelling we put our heads down for a 1am breakfast. Uncertain of the weather we were all silently anxious. The alarm went and everyone sprung into action, the night was clear with clouds menacingly hanging in the valley. Breakfast was wolfed down as our specially hired snow cat warmed up outside. We were off to 4700m in what can only be said as a surreal experience. Jumping out we could see head torches ahead of us; with Victor out in front and an extra guide at the back we put our heads down. Lightning flashes to the East seemed far enough away not to trouble us and before we knew it we were back at the col 5300m where we had turned around just three days ago. This time the blue sky and clear views made this a special morning. The sun rose and by 9am nine team members, myself and Victor stood on the highest summit in Europe 5642m. Tears and hugs reflected the emotions as we gazed around and took a few pictures. Not wanting to push our luck too far but wanting to get back before another storm blew in we descended steadily past the fixed line and back onto the main slopes. Some members paid for a ride on a skidu whilst the rest of plodded down the remaining 1500m with sore feet and very tired legs. On arriving back at the Barell Huts we did not want to waste any time and took the mechanical transport down to Terskol and celebrated with kebabs and beer in a small local hamlet.

What an amazing adventure to both sides of Elbrus. Special thanks to Victor and to a great team of characters.

Adele Pennington « Previous report | Next report »

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