Trip Reports

Cho Oyu 2003

$Summit of Cho Oyu, the world\'s 6th highest mountain$

Written by Leader Terry Moore, May 2003

A successful venture into Tibet with 9 climbers and one Jagged Globe leader. We were fortunate to brave the unseasonal strong winds and place 2 team members and 2 Sherpas on the summit on 11 May, having fixed the rock difficulties below the summit. There after, other expeditions followed until more strong winds kept people pinned in their tents.

Tore Sunde Rasmussen (Norway) and Geoff Robb (Australia) summitted, being the first this season, assisted by 2 strong Sherpas - Pasang Tshering and Dawa Gelji. Tore climbed with oxygen whereas Geoff did not. The difference was noticed physically in many ways and both descended happy chappies. Myself and Bjarne Morck (Norway)reached C3 on 15 May but gusting winds prevented us from committing our fingers and toes to an icy summit bid.

Everyone stayed nights at Camp 1 (6400m) and most reached camp 2 at 7000m without any difficulty. Camp 3 was only occupied when the weather looked promsing for a summit bid. The strong winds certainly made life uncomfortable especially at Camp 1 which was located on an exposed area of the approach ridge. Of the few expeditions on the mountain (approx 12 small expeditions), most had lost tents during the windiest days of 6th and 7th May. We heard of 63 destroyed on Everest!

The snow conditions were the best for many seasons making movement safe and rewarding. We had our fare share of illnesses and 5 team members had to depart base camp early. These ranged from a kidney infection, heart disorder and a variety of chest infections. Thankfully none turned out to be serious. A disappointmment for me, but I am sure that had they been able to climb we would have had more on the summit. Our yaks arrived on 19 May to end an enjoyable and safe adventure on Cho Oyu.

During our stay on the mountain, Margriet Jansen from Holland made a film about our Sirdar Nima Temba Sherpa. Filming higher on the moutain was by Lakpa Sherpa and if all the footage is acceptable it will be available for veiwing later in the year. Being the only female on the trip and a non-climber she did remarkably well and was promoted to base camp manager for her resilience! She was banned from the kitchen as our cookstaff were producing an excellent variety of meals.

Anyone interested in Cho Oyu should be encouraged as the whole travel experience across the Tibetan border into a land of people almost frozen in traditional culture is fascinating. The mountain has beauty and commands fine veiws of neighbouring unclimbed faces and summits. The Northern aspect of Everest can be seen from the village of Tingri en-route, but even better is the view from the summit of Cho Oyu itself.

Great adventure, great mountain.

Terry Moore (Jagged Globe leader) 2003 « Previous report | Next report »

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