Trip Reports

Cho Oyu 2004

Written by Leader, October 2004

The expedition was certainly blessed with some excellent and stable weather that allowed for more careful planning of the summit attempt. Out of the five team members Soren Gudmann, Jack Jakobczyk and Wyn Morgan summited on Saturday 25th September along with Thundu Sherpa. Conditions on the summit were nigh perfect with very little wind and perfect views of Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse. Wyn and Thundu summited without the use of oxygen. Although extremely tired Wyn and Jack managed to reach C3 before sunset and returned to BC a couple of days later after resting in C1. Soren and Terry Wells (who reached the serac barrier above C1) have since joined our expedition to Shishapangma (leader: David Hamilton) where Soren hopes to become the first Dane to reach the main summit. Michele Cohen reached a high point of 7,850m on summit day without oxygen, which was an excellent effort indeed.

The mountain was extremely busy this year as it was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first summit success. Over 28 expedition teams (some 400 climbers) were active on the mountain and a considerable number of these teams achieved summit success. This was the first autumn expedition for Jagged Globe and some members of the team used this expedition in preparation for an attempt on Everest next year. We wish them every success and hope that the success achieved on Cho Oyu will be repeated on next year's Everest attempts from both the north and south sides.

A very beautiful mountain in every respect and it was a delight to see it in such splendour and within such magnificent surroundings.

Ron Holt
Jagged Globe Leader 2004
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