Trip Reports

Mera Peak - 20 Oct to 12 Nov '06

Written by Leader Paul Donovan, November 2006

On the 3rd November at 07:30, four members of the Mera Peak team, plus Pema Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa and myself summited on Mera Peak in white out conditions. What views?!

Trekking/Climbing Team - Stuart, Andrew, Mark, Gary, Kirsty, Sue, Robert, Katie, Steve, Kam.

Sherpa Team - Pema Sherpa (Sirdar), Pasang Sherpa, Nima Sangua Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa.

The team met at Heathrow Airport in readiness for their Nepalese experience. The flights were on time both at Heathrow and Doha, resulting in us arriving in Kathmandu with time to organise ourselves. After a briefing about the trip and a welcome from Kit Spencer, it was time to unpack and repack bags in readiness for an early start the next morning. 04:00 would be with us before we knew it!

At 05:15 on Day Three, we left the Summit Hotel and headed for the domestic airport to await an early and exciting flight to Lukla. We were not disappointed as we took off by 06:30 and were provided with clear views of the mountains throughout the flight. The landing at Lukla was greeted with much excitement.

After a short stop in Lukla, it was time for us to head off, following a trail southwards along the main trail to Jiri. After a descent of around 600m and a short lunch stop, it was time to ascend to the village of Poyan (2,800m), resulting in a five hour trek. From Poyan, the trek took us over the Khari La before winding its way to Pangkongma (2,900m). On hearing the snow conditions on our planned trail, we revised our route to stay on the western slopes of the Hinku Valley and away from the deep snow. Our initial destination was Neusa, a small flat campsite high on the forested Hinku valley. The next day’s route kept us in the forest all day, giving us glimpses of snow capped mountains from time to time. An interesting route with a few exposed traverses. After a night in Stela Khola in the heart of the forest, it was off to the village of Korte. Our trail took us through Taktha (from which we would ascend in approximately 10 days time on our return via the Zatrwa La), before descending to the Hinku Khola. From the river, we gradually ascended to Korte in the snow. It was here we were asked to donate monies to the Maoist cause, before continuing up the Hinku Valley to the village of Tangnag, our base for the next two days.

With most acclimatising well, we moved on to Dig Kharka for a night and a chance to sort out our high altitude clothing and equipment. As most of the team moved on the next day, we said our farewells to three team members as they were calling it a day and heading back early. Today we caught our first glimpse of Mera Peak from the side we would climb it. Views of the mountain from the west had already been glimpsed. All team members seemed to get excited by this. From Gig Kharka, we headed to Khare Camp where we would spend two nights in a bid to further acclimatise. As we were only two hours away from the glacier, we made use of it on one of the days by setting up a glacial school to practice relevant glacial skills in preparation for what was to come. A great day was had by all.

It was time to make our bid on the mountain. Initially to the Mera La for a night, before continuing on to High Camp. As we moved up to High Camp, we said farewell to another team member. We were now six. Soon after arrival at High Camp, two more of the team headed back down the mountain to Khare Camp, leaving just four team members for the ascent the following day. At 03:00, we set off in snow and poor visibility. This continued as we slowly made our way up the Mera Glacier. By 07:00 we were stood at the bottom of the final push. With a fixed line in place, we each in turn made our way to the summit, accompanied by Pema Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa. At 07:30, we all stood on the top of Mera Peak (6,476m). Despite no views, the team were still jubilant.

After the customary hugs, tears and photos, we abseiled off the summit and began our descent, again in zero visibility and with our route now covered up by snowfall. Visibility improved as we reached High Camp, some two hours later. After a quick drink here, it was off again, heading back to Khare Camp and a celebration drink with the rest of the team.

The next three days saw us make our way back to Lukla, via the Zatrwa La, with all team members revelling in our success. A customary party with the Sherpas and Porters was had in Lukla before eventually flying out the following day, arriving back in Kathmandu late afternoon, some three days ahead of schedule.

The success of any trip is dependant on many things. The success of this trip would not have been possible without such an efficient Sherpa, Cook and Porter team led by a very experienced Sirdar. Thanks to Pema and his team.

Whilst there are many members of a trekking/climbing team, not all will summit due to a variety of reasons; although all will have played a vital part in the expedition’s success. Thanks to all trekking/climbing team members for their contribution to the overall success of the trip.

Thanks to:

Mark for vocalising continuously throughout the trip and keeping morale up
Gary & Katie for testing my medical ability and knowledge
Kirsty for her descriptive accounts of vomiting and sickness first thing in the morning
Sue for having every ailment under the sun and still making the top
Steve for consuming the most amount of chocolate bars on any trip
Andrew for putting us all in a state of hypnoses and telling us this trip has been a 'doddle'
Kam for playing his part as 'blue beard' and amusing us
Stuart for those lycra clad days
Robert for reminding us all of useful statistics, even when not required

Congratulations and well done one and all

Llongyfarchiadau pawb!

Paul Donovan
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