Trip Reports

Mera Peak - 20 Apr to 13 May '07

Written by Leader Greg Coe, May 2007

Our first taste of adventure travel came on the approach to Tribhuvan International Airport; an hour of circling nervously, before our 747 bounced alarmingly down through the low cloud. The swoops and lurches prompted involuntary cries from some of the more fragile passengers, but Jagged Globe's Mera and Mera & Island teams were made of sterner stuff. We sat silently with stomachs clenched and grins fixed, as we burst into clear air scant yards above the rooftops of Kathmandu, and settled smoothly onto the tarmac. Valuable preparation for the next day's approach to Lukla.

So after a slightly delayed welcoming puja at the Summit Hotel, a swift kit check, briefing and a fine dinner, we snatched a few hours sleep before the next day's Alpine start: another whistle-stop bus ride through the streets of Kathmandu (to the domestic terminal this time), check-in, laughable security, and by six thirty were jammed aboard the Twin Otter and taxiing on the tarmac again. Breathtaking views of the mountains to the north, one more miraculous landing, and we were safely delivered into the hands of our fifty-strong local staff, and our approach to the mountain suddenly took a more leisurely pace.

Two days of dodging rainstorms and getting to know one another brought us to Pangom, where we opted for our first rest day: an opportunity for a morning visit to the gompa including a blessing ceremony for a safe ascent, and a trial run with the portable altitude chamber in the afternoon, just in case. A chance to gather our wits too, and enjoy the warmth and hospitality of a Sherpa lodge on a wet evening. Next day we crossed the Pangong La, and with reports of heavy snowfalls on the ridges bordering the Hongku Valley, in Buddhist tradition we took the middle path, gradually descending the Western flank of the valley. We passed through flowering rhodedendron, bamboo, and finally pine forest, after three days and occasional glimpses of our distant objective, we reached the valley floor at Khote. Although it involved some steep climbs and descents, we were blessed with the lovable, pocket-sized Pasang, the Sirdar's wife, who set a fine steady pace, and took a very maternal view of our welfare. Clients and leaders alike soon learned not to try to smuggle dirty hands to the dinner table.

Nonetheless, the day to Tagnag was our first foray above 4,000m, and here the first AMS headaches kicked in. The following day there gave a chance for some laundry, Top Trump: Sharks! and other card games, and exploring the vicinity. While some elected to visit the moraine ridge overlooking the glacier lake, others headed up the slopes above, for views of Mera's impressive western flank, and the appreciation of the occasional distant avalanche. The second night at that altitude left us fit to continue, and for the next two days as we climbed into the head of the valley, arriving in camp by luchtime, with some members making short forays higher during the afternoon. Dig Kharka was voted "best wilderness campsite", and the ridge above Khare gave the first clear views of the mountain above Mera La.

Dan H was feeling the effects at Khare, and after a rough night decided to descend with Mera & Island leader Simon Lowe, (and Pasang, denying us her TLC for a few days) while the rest of us pushed on to our camp over the Mera La in Scottish conditions. The acclimatisation day there provided an opportunity to hone crampon skills and practise fixed rope techniques, before Simon rejoined, and we all moved to high camp the following day. The weather had settled into a pattern of clear mornings, with cloud gathering and some wet snow, usually in the afternoon. but the three hours tudging up to high camp next morning was under cloud and thick snowfall. That afternoon the temperature dropped and the sky cleared, as we huddled in our tents on the rocky ledges forcing down food, liquids, and in some cases painkillers, antibiotics, and Diamox.

Adrian and Mark H were the worst affected and chose to descend next day, while the rest of us were granted a mild night and a star-studded sky, as we began our summit attempt at 4:00am. Mike had made a remarkable recovery from a late bout of D&V, and with Pete, Mark T and myself made steady progress up the gentle slopes. A rosy dawn gave way to a crystal morning, and the peaks of the Khumbu were gradually revealed behind us as we climbed. After 51/2 hours of determined going we reached the start of the fixed ropes of the summit cone, just as the first clouds appeared. Soon to follow were Dr Dan, Adam, Paul and Robert, the Aussies James and Ian, and soon-to-be married Ricky and Penny. Alas, soon-to-be best man Jonny had suffered bouts of vomiting and turned back some 200m from the top, but the rest of us, with Simon, climbed the final 10m of 40 degree slope, and gathered on the narrow sumit, amongst prayer flags and clouds, for exhausted hugs, photos, and egg chapattis.

By that afternoon we had retreated again to the Mera La for the night, and the following morning said fond farewells: the Island Peak posse to drop into the Hinku Valley towards the Amphu Labtsa, while the Mera crew returned to Lukla the quick way. A snowy hike over the Zatrwa La, and some lengthy glissades made for final excitement. The two days weather-bound in Lukla provided fond (if hazy) memories: a chang-fuelled dance-fest with our local staff, beer-fuelled pool tournaments, a dog called Benjy, and a Maoist flag.

Great trip, congratulations to all.

Huge thanks to the local crew: the porters, Sirdar Lhakpa and Pasang, Sherpas Nawang, Tsongba, Rinji, ever-impressive Nema and his cook team, and well-dressed Dendi.

Greg Coe, Expedition Leader« Previous report | Next report »

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