Trip Reports

Mera Peak - 3 to 26 April '09

Written by Leader Terry Moore, April 2009

A very successful expedition with 5 summitting from a group of 8 [+ 3 out of 4 on the Mera and Island Peak team - Ed]. The weather was unsettled initially with rain and hail showers in the evenings, and cloudy during most afternoons. It improved near the Mera La allowing us to summit in near perfect conditions on 19 April.

Our trek took us around the steep forested terrain south of Mera Peak, starting from Lukla and gaining altitude slowly through some isolated villages amongst the emerging flowering rhododendron. The steep descents and ascents in places made hard going for some but morale was high as the vistas of Mera Peak unfolded. Anna, our youngest, was in awe at the size of our objective, as was Simon on the gradient of descent into the Hinku Valley. Some recent snow near the lake of Panch Pokhri made exciting walking for both our hardy porters and group members. Our Sirdar Lakpa in his jolly way ensured everyone was well looked after, and his team of Sherpas, An Karmi, Pasang and Karma were always there just in case.

We shared some days trekking with the Mera-Island Peak group, led by Mal Haskins, so the evening games of 'travel trivia' on occasion widened our knowledge of some unimportant facts. This was further expanded by Simon with his additional wealth of knowledge and party jokes. The previous dry winter saw some parched pastures with few yaks grazing and many streams almost dried up.

The approaches to Mera by its glacier allowed us to do some training with crampons, ice axe and ropes, should the summit present any difficulties. Everyone enjoyed learning new skills in the mountains as the views out towards Makalu and the Khumbu Region unfolded. Everyone except Anna and Simon stayed at High Camp for a summit attempt on 19 April. They found the altitude demanding and ran out of strength, thereby descending to Khare for a rest. A good effort nonetheless.

The mountain appeared busy on the glacier approach, but we managed to camp without difficulty. The winds of previous days died down to just a few knots on Saturday and on Sunday 19 April 7 members and 2 Sherpas set off for the summit at 3.30am. With cloudless skies at daybreak we could see the sun rising over Kanchenjunga as we pushed our tired bodies ‘onwards and upwards’. The summit was ringed with a deep crevasse only 20 feet from its highest point so everyone was satisfied to "call it a day", and avoid any difficult technical manouvers. I knew we should have borrowed that wooden ladder at Tangnag! Dan was pushed to his limit only 1 hour from the summit and was escorted down by Karmi, Seiste and Peter after they had reached the highest point first. The remainder of the group, Ben, Bill, John and myself behind the pace of An Karmi arrived at around 7.45am. The views north toward Everest and Cho Oyu were spectacular, which we enjoyed until descending towards High Camp when the morning clouds boiled up. I have never seen Everest looking so black from the lack of winter snow.

Our return to Lukla by way of the Zatrwa La pass went without incident and we thanked our Nepali staff in the Yeti Lodge at Lukla by way of a party involving local and multi cultural dancing! A return of improved weather following some cloudy weather on the return trek allowed us to fly back to Kathmandu on 24 April with magnificent views of the Himalayan peaks.

Everyone learned something about themselves and how their bodies perform at altitude. We certainly enjoyed each other’s company and the challenge of journeying through the mountains.

Terry Moore, Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.