Trip Reports

Kyajo Ri - 16 Oct to 11 Nov '12

Summit of Kyajo Ri 3 November 2012
Trip Report

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, November 2012

Following a successful ascent of Kyajo Ri in 2011, Adele was eager to lead the first Jagged Globe team to the mountain in 2012.

With a full complement of twelve team members it was obvious that this crew of independent individuals were ready for the adventure they were about to embark on. There was Ron, Jeremy (Bunter) and Raymond who had been on other expeditions under Pennington’s leadership; David, Martin, Ingaret, Elen and Roger, regulars of Jagged Globe expeditions, Winter and Alpine courses and then Richard, Pete and Rosie, new to Jagged Globe and last but not least, Nev Taylor, expedition leader and mountaineer.

The expedition started with a bump as the Boeing 737 dropped out of the sky on the approach into Kathmandu Airport. Yelps echoed around the cabin as bottoms departed from their seats. There was little time in Kathmandu to prepare but everyone was packed and ready for the early morning flight to Lukla and after the recent sad events, not one of us were really looking forward to this flight. The forty minutes passed smoothly and we set down in Lukla in perfect weather. Little did we know this weather was going to stay with us for the next 24 days. For some of the team members the route to Phakding was familiar, for others it was their first time enduring the Khumbu Highway. With Yak jams and wobbly bridges to cross we were soon in camp for the evening and experiencing the delights of Hem's impressive cooking. Our next stop was Namche where the Everest bakery supplied excellent apple pie and cappuccinos. Given the 1,000m gain in altitude a day was spent in Namche acclimatising, walking up to the Everest View Hotel, where we drank tea and gazed at the spectacular scenery. The more experienced in the group were keen to point out the summits they’d reached previously.

The next day the group were glad to leave the main highway and head north towards Gokyo. The lunch stop just before we split from the main trail had a beautiful view of Ama Dablam, framed by prayer flags. As we headed into the Dudh Khosi Valley we left the crowds behind and descended beneath wheeling lammergeiers (the bearded vultures) to spend a night camped close down by the river.

After a stiff climb we continued to follow the valley up towards Machermo. Machermo hosts a mountain first aid (IPPG) post staffed by two young English doctors, who induced interest and increased pulse rates among certain members of the group. After an hour’s private talk on acclimatisation by a brave medical student, we were all surprised to find our oxygen saturations were between 82 and 90% (normal at sea level in a healthy individual would be >96%). Behind Machermo we glimpsed our first view of Kyajo Ri, looking inaccessible to us from this direction. The nights were getting really chilly now and thermal underwear and pee bottles were starting to make an appearance.

After bidding goodbye to the doctors the next day we headed further up the valley towards the Cho Oyu glacier. The vegetation was becoming more sparse, we were now above tree level and the beyond rhododendrons although the juniper remained close to the ground. The days too were becoming cooler and today we passed the three lakes (partially frozen, which didn’t deter some brave Himalayan ducks). Delicious spicy pasties from last night’s dinner were enjoyed by the hungriest of the party (Elen, Pete, Rosie) as a lunch supplement beside the lake.

As we reached the Gokyo Lakse we were finally treated to our first view of the Renjo La, rising behind the green lake with a snow-capped peak and hanging glacier to the South and Gokyo Ri to the North. This was our stop for the next 24 hours for some more acclimatisation. Rather enthusiastically and to the rest of the group's surprise, Jeremy and Rosie decided to set off at 3am the next day in order to see the sunrise over Everest from Gokyo Ri summit. Only to find at the top a sign advising that Sunset was better and sunrise less worth it! The more relaxed of the group headed off at the civilised time of 7.30am, encompassed stunning views and were back in time for lunch.

The Renjo La (5,360m) was the high point of our acclimatisation trek and a first for all except Nev. We were again blessed with good weather and some of the best views of the trip. From the airy pass we descended steadily on sturdy stone steps – grateful that these had replaced the boulder field that existed previously. It was a long day and we were all grateful to reach Lundgen, which could barely be called a hamlet and was our stop for the night.

The next two days were much easier; it was a short walk downhill to Thame, where we arrived late morning. This gave us the opportunity for washing, shaving and even showering and plenty of chocolate in what the team leader promised would be our last night of luxury. From Thame, the team headed on a lesser trod trail towards Mende, comprising an empty German hotel, a couple of dwellings and a Buddhist retreat (which threatened to enlist certain team members with the promise of reincarnation as Snow Leopards).

Leaving Mende really did herald the last of any luxuries and we headed up a tenuous and vague yak trail into the series of isolated hanging valleys that are the Kyajo Drengka.

Ominously, on day 13, our intrepid team arrived at base camp – a bleak and desolate place headed by a rock skull where few living souls dared to venture. At night, surrounded by an eerie silence punctured by the screams of previous tortured souls who foolishly dared to venture into this god-forsaken land, our heroic team can only pray that they survive to see the first chinks of daylight and to ascend the impenetrable cold (sheer rock headwall) to continue the adventure.

These are announced by a rock skull at the entrance and near impenetrable headwalls at the end of each valley. The first of the valleys was to be our base camp for the next week. This was uninhabited, cold (sheer rock walls) but spectacular and provided a suitable backdrop for rope training, team filming commitments, teddy hijacking as well as more acclimatisation and forays into higher valleys for the establishment of Camp 1.

After the fourth night the team headed to the previously stocked Camp 1. This was directly at the top of a hanging valley headwall and just below the Kyajo Glacier, with the full spectacle of Kyajo Ri looming above. Without the expertise of Hem, our star chef, the team were left to fend for themselves and various hydrated and de-hydrated rations were cooked, warmed, enjoyed (or tolerated depending upon ones perspective).

The next morning the team split into two phases. Phase one were first to climb the approach to the col below Kyajo Ri (5,600m). The col was the site of the windy and decidedly chilly Camp 2, whilst the reaming team members enjoyed a relaxing day in the stunning surroundings of Camp 1. The climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 involved a crossing of the frozen lake, then the glacier followed by a treacherous gully where a stationary boulder was more the exception than the norm! Group 1 arrived at Col Camp, a wind-swept, freezing patch of snow, to find their tents already erected by our always hard-working group of Sherpas, who could be seen fixing the ropes above on the summit slopes of Kyajo Ri.

At 3am Group 1 woke and by 5am most were ready to leave camp. Taking the lead Adele made her way up to the start of the fixed ropes. The first obstacle was an awkward pitch across a rock band in the dark but thereafter the going was a little easier on steep but relatively straightforward snow. As the light came up the gradient began to increase so that one had to resist the temptation to stop and admire the view for fear of a slip in concentration.

By this time the wind had dropped to a light breeze and the temperature was rising. For some of us the relentless upward grind was a new experience but there was no denying our good fortune with the weather. After three and a half hours the summit ridge hove into view and at last the strain on the calf muscles began to ease and at least one of us resorted to hands and knees as we gasped our way up the final few metres. Space was extremely limited but we were determined to share the experience together so six very tired but euphoric climbers, plus leader, plus Sirdar all crammed onto a knife edge aręte for congratulations and carefully taken photographs.

The Group 2 team (Jeremy, Raymond, Ingaret and David) arrived at the Col Camp to be met by the successful Group 1 team beginning their weary descent to Camp 1, and by Elen who had suffered from mild AMS at the col and Adele who was going to now join the phase two team. Group 2 spent a relatively calm night before setting off at 5am for the summit. Elen, Jeremy and Raymond stormed off in front, while Ingaret and David brought up the vanguard to keep their eyes on everyone. The first three members summitted with Kilu, Phurba and Ang Sherpa in fine style to enjoy fantastic views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and the other Khumbu giants. Ingaret and David, spurred on by Adele’s “encouragement”, plus Wonchu, reached the top shortly afterwards, with Adele summitting for a second time in two days.

Descending quickly the members of Group 2 were elated but daunted by the thought of the descent to Camp 1. Ang Sherpa removed the fixed ropes so there was no trace of the Jagged Globe team's ascent. Slowly and carefully everyone made it back to Camp 1 where another night of dehydrated rations were consumed. In the morning Camp 1 was dismantled and everyone made their way back to Base Camp. Group 1 welcomed their team buddies back into camp and eventually the Sherpas and kitchen staff made it back with big loads. With everyone back in base camp it was time to have a sigh of relief and congratulate ourselves with Hem’s summit success cake.

The return journey to Lukla passed without event, but did involve drinking beer, eating lots of apple pie and Pringles as well as consuming vast amounts of Cappuccinos. At 6.30am after a night partying on rum punch the Kyajo Ri team boarded the Tara airline flight back to Kathmandu. Seats still warm from the incoming passengers, the plane sped down the runway giving everyone a final thrill as it launched itself into the air. Now back at the Summit Hotel the team are eating their way through the menu and sharing tales with the other Jagged Globe teams in residence.

This was a superb expedition. Well done to everyone and thank you to Jagged Globe and our local staff.

Adele Pennington, Expedition Leader « Previous report | »

Jagged Globe Newsletter

We publish an email newsletter with trip reports and latest availability, plus features, competitions and general news of our climbing, trekking & skiing activities.

Categories
Archives
 
Follow Us:
1