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Throwback Thursday: Summit day dispatch Cho Oyu 4 October 2007

Written by Neal Short, May 2014

"Our summit bid started from Camp 3 (7,500m) - the platforms for the tents had been dug into the steep snow slopes just below the striking yellow rock band that crosses the whole face. After melting snow for drinks and eating as much as possible the team settled down around 8pm for 4hrs rest.

The Jagged Globe office texted the weather forecast to the satellite phone that I was carrying and it thankfully suggested that it would be fine for the following day. However by 11pm the wind had picked up and started to cause some concern [the last thing we wanted was to climb through low night time temperature plus an added wind chill factor]. Luckily the winds did subside and after much effort trying to get ready we left at 2.45pm. Each team member was assigned a sherpa who was to assist them during the climb; James & Anselm went with Pasang; Mark with Phurba; Janet with Dawa and Ian with Mingma.

Immediately out of camp the route climbed through the yellow rock band. Everyone found this to be the most exhausting part of the route even though from Camp 3 we where now using supplementary oxygen.

As the dawn slowly arrived the views out across the Himalaya became more and more impressive.

Gradually the team split into two groups with James and Anselm leading the way [we were able to keep in touch using radios]. The upper slopes of the mountain did not pose any technical difficulty but required steadfast determination to keep on going.

Then after nearly 7 hrs of climbing we crested the summit plateau to see the majestic horseshoe of Everest, Lhotse and Nupste in the distance - it was a spectacular and emotional indication of success.

We all felt immensely privileged to have climbed the 6th highest mountain in the world but in particular this season when the numbers of summiteers where greatly reduced due to the poor weather. On top we shared the success with the dependable sherpas [who climbed without supplementary O2]. A couple of members even managed to get through to folks at home on the sat phone.

From the summit we descended in glorious sunshine and initially with a sea of cloud beneath our feet stretching across to Shishapangma. The most difficult section was a few abseils over the yellow band. The whole team had a brief rest at C3 and then carried on down to C2. A fantastic day out!�

Summiteers: James, Anselm, Janet P, Mark, Ian and myself; along with Pasang, Dawa, Phurba and Mingma.�
Neal Short, leader.

Read Neal's full report here.

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